GrahamPaige29

Hi guys. I found this model on a site that sells tractor regulators. Also, the guy who rebuilt my generator was qualified so I'm guessing it will work ok. I was originally just confused about the "L" terminal and lack of "A" but I think we've concluded that it's on the bottom. I'm going to install it and test it this week. Bloo, I can't find any markings on the actual generator but it's the original for the car. 1929 Graham Paige Model 612. I wish there was an online parts list for the whole car. Thanks all you guys for the input. I love this site as I'm a semi-amateur but learning more all the time. Geoff

Hey Terry. Thanks a lot. I think I'll hook up the system assuming the bottom unlabelled terminal is armature. If L. being there has no effect on the system when not used I can stick with what I've got. So field thin wite armature thick wire and bat to anmeter.

Here’s the one I’m looking at… https://brillman.com/product/6-volt-delco-voltage-regulator-generator-mounted-premium-quality/ PS. Does “Gen” on this unit equate to A?

The new unit he put on the generator has four terminals. I’m guessing that it’s the wrong one as it has the additional “l” terminal. I’m wondering if this unit would be suitable to install? Link in post below.

Hi guys. I dug up the original regulator. I can see three terminals Bat A. And F. Thought that would be the case. I’m not sure why my rebuilder discarded this unit but maybe it’s safe to say it’s not working. The generator does indeed have the three brush system and he installed new windings.

Hey guys. I will take some serious photos today. Thanks a lot.

Sorry I meant open her up.

Bloo I might have time tomorrow to owe her up and look. I'm guessing you're right about which one is which. I think I'll order the regulator I referred to. It's only 30 bucks and seems correct. One other question. Should the body of the generator have a good solid ground to frame ( positive?). Thanks so much.

If I recall correctly, the original box on my generator had the two relays inside it. As Bloo said, one out be the cutout and the other a voltage regulator. If I order this unit https://www.steinertractor.com/ABC074-6-Volt-Voltage-Regulator i am guessing this would work with my third brush generator. However I'm still unsure as to where the two wire emerging from the generator would be run. One is insulated, the other is thinner and uninsulated.

https://www.steinertractor.com/ABC074-6-Volt-Voltage-Regulator sorry link should be in above post.

This seems to have the right terminals. B. F. And A. But should it not also have a "cutout" to keep the battery from draining. Signed, confused.

Terry. Excuse me while I go bang my head into a brick wall. I'm more confused than ever. I think I have to find a mechanic locally who's used to antique cars.

Terri I think that's it. I can't see what else the fourth terminal would be but the "a". I'm going to hook her up accordingly and see if I get current flowing TO my ammeter when running. I'll just ignore "L". Thanks.

Bloo. I took the unit off and there is a fourth connector under it. It's not labelleded but could this be "a"? im going to guess that it is. An I right thinking the large wire goes to "f", the small wire to "a", and the bat wire to the anmeter/battery????

Olstech. Hmm me too. I'll try to get a hold of the guy. He said he replaced the coils inside but the voltage regulator/ cutoff makes no sense to me either.

Hi guys. Before vivid I sent my 1929 Graham’s generator away to be rebuilt. It was finished and the guy said it’s working fine but I’m confused about the hookup and I can’t contact the guy. My new voltage regulator has connections labelled B , F , and L. I thought the L was supposed to be A. There is a thick and thin wire coming from the generator. I need help with the wiring. Here’s a photo if the regulator and a clear wiring diagram for the car. Thanks a lot. Geoff.

Hey Bloo. Good ideas. I will check those out later today. If I can't see an apparent issue, this might be the first time I get a mechanic to look at the car. I don't want to throw more money at the problem (buying more parts like another coil) and be disappointed they don't work again. I did drive her into the garage yesterday (10 feet). Big day in my life haha. But I would like to take her around the block without the stuttering and backfiring. I'll take a bunch of photos of the distributer parts as well and maybe post them here....

I have changed the I have changed out the condenser with no result.

Hi guys. Finally got my 1929 Graham Paige model 612 running. She seems fine at idle but beyond low rpms wants to sputter and misfire. According to my observations of markings on the bracket, my coil should be a model CR6912C but I have a generic 6 volt coil on there right now. Would the wrong coil cause these issues or is it most likely the distributer? I took it apart and cleaned it and the springs seem to be ok. The point gap seems ok too. I can't figure out why she doesn't like higher rpms.

Hey Phil. I'm using a brand new inductive pickup light. It has to run on 12 volts but my old car is 6 so I had the main power coming from the battery off my Hyundai. Seems no matter how carefully I try to clip on the inductor it picks up other wires. Really irritating. I took my spark plugs out today and cleaned them up, as there was a lot of carbon on them. I've also got a new coil coming as the old one was pretty dicey. I'm thinking of using better insulated cables too. Or I could search online for one of the old neon lights haha.

Thanks guys. I'm going to examine the distributer today for wear.

Hey Rusty. Thanks. I think I had it idling too high. The carb settings are still a little finicky but I'll try tomorrow to run her WAYY lower at idle and check again. Also, I should have someone else rev her for me and see if the timing changes. If not, am I safe in guessing the mechanical timing isn't working right? Seems like I'm getting more than one timing light flash per cycle. Any guess as to why???

Hi guys. I finally got my 1929G Graham Paige model 612 running thanks to a carb rebuild. But now I'm having some other issues with what I can only assume is the timing. I bought a timing light and hooked the inductor to number 1 spark plug. When the car was idling away, the timing spot on my flywheel marked "SP FA" which I assume is "spark, full advance" was lit up by multiple flashes from the timing gun. I made a video that shows the car idling and a close up of the timing mark lit up on the flywheel. If you look near the end of the video, the mark (highlighted by a piece of green masking tape) is wandering all over the place. I don't get it. Is my timing gun flashing multiple times and at the wrong moments or is the timing actually "off". I assume the timing is off because I'm getting a lot of shaking of the car and funny burping/almost backfiring noises. Here's a link to the youtube video that shows the issue... https://youtu.be/rVflB9d_9Qc I'm wondering if it's an issue with the centrifugal advance on the distributer going wrong. I can't figure out what else it could be. No matter how carefully I adjust the distributer head back and forth, the light continues to dance around the mark flashing multiple times. You guys ever experienced this? Should I pull the distributor and try to rebuild it again or is that not the issue? Thanks for you help and remember, I'm a newbie! Geoff

Hi guys. I finally got my 1929G Graham Paige model 612 running thanks to a carb rebuild. But now I'm having some other issues with what I can only assume is the timing. I bought a timing light and hooked the inductor to number 1 spark plug. When the car was idling away, the timing spot on my flywheel marked "SP FA" which I assume is "spark, full advance" was lit up by multiple flashes from the timing gun. I made a video that shows the car idling and a close up of the timing mark lit up on the flywheel. If you look near the end of the video, the mark (highlighted by a piece of green masking tape) is wandering all over the place. I don't get it. Is my timing gun flashing multiple times and at the wrong moments or is the timing actually "off". I assume the timing is off because I'm getting a lot of shaking of the car and funny burping/almost backfiring noises. Here's a link to the video that shows the issue... https://youtu.be/rVflB9d_9Qc I'm wondering if it's an issue with the centrifugal advance on the distributer going wrong. I can't figure out what else it could be. No matter how carefully I adjust the distributer head back and forth, the light continues to dance around the mark flashing multiple times. You guys ever experienced this? Should I pull the distributor and try to rebuild it again or is that not the issue? Thanks for you help and remember, I'm a newbie! Geoff

From an interesting article about car horns... Another popular horn was the Klaxon, whose name was derived from the Greek word klaxo, meaning "to shriek". The Klaxon produced its sound with an electrically powered vibrating metal diaphragm. The Klaxon was the first horn to need "just a touch" rather than be sounded continuously, to clear the path for the automobile. The Klaxon-type diaphragm horn has evolved over the years and is the basis for today's modern diaphragm horns. Manufacturers have experimented with the diaphragm and sound chamber to produce a variety of sounds. Arguably the most memorable is the "Aoogha" sound of the horns on the Model T and Model A Fords of the 1920's and early 1930's. Over the years, there have been many studies and designs in an attempt to produce horns that are pleasing to the ear but still able to penetrate the low frequency rumble of traffic noise. Up until the mid 1960's most American car horns were tuned to the musical notes of E flat or C. Since then, many manufacturers have moved up on the scale to notes F sharp and A sharp.