GrahamPaige29

Hi Paul. I will check my lubrication chart. If it says that fitting takes "steam cylinder oil" you're right on. I'm going to take the bearing off the hub and examine the Id. I can always add the hose to the hub and inject oil in there once in a while. I want to get all this sorted out before the tranny goes on. Thanks.

It doesn't seem like it has an open groove in that area. I will look at it again when I get home tonight. I don't think it could hurt to hookup the same type of system with a braided cable and grease nipple. Even if all it does is lubricate the hub, I guess it's important. It's just been off for a loonnnng time in my estimation.

It seems like the bearing is sealed. I can't see a way the grease could get into it. Maybe the point of the lube is just to make sure the throwout bearing HUB can move forward and backwards??? Also, it seems like the hub is pretty loose on the shaft. I guess that's normal?

Hi guys. Before I put my clutch back together I have a question. I bought a new throwout bearing. It fit fine. If you look at the pics the bearing hub has a lubrication nipple. Since this is inside the bell housing I believe it originally had a line attached that went to a grease nipple on the outside of the bell. See the pic. I think in the old system grease pumped in worked its way through the bearing hub and out through tiny holes to the bearing. You can see these small holes inside the hub. Do you think it’s necessary to have the system back the way it was? Is this model bearing not permanently sealed? Does there have to be lubricant inside the hub? Thanks.

Ok thanks guys. When I was first examining the manifold i thought "WTF???" to the holes in the intake pipes. Now it seems to make sense. I wonder if the second hole at the heat shield has a purpose. Maybe it's a common hole for another model of Graham which has the manifold reversed. For now I will add a threaded plug in the hole to test the engine. When I reinstall it I'll be able to work on getting the wipers working again. Yet another challenge. Thanks you guys!

Hi guys. The picture below is NOT a pic of the engine from my car. It's one I'm using I found online for reference. In my Graham Paige 612, my manifold does NOT have the fitting/copper tube circled in the picture. It just has a threaded hole there in the manifold. I was puzzled by it for a while but now I'm thinking it's for the vacuum operated windshield wiper. Is this right? Also, there seems to be an adjustable bolt where the tube meets the manifold. You see the square bolt head just below the copper tube fitting? I'm wondering if this is an essential part of it's operation. Anybody have experience with this type of setup? When I'm testing my engine out, should that hole be "plugged"? Thanks! Geoff

Hey Graham Man! I examined the studs and they weren't so bad. I did have to replace some of them with ones that my friend out west sent me. I ended up using 7/16" fine thread new nuts with flat washers below them and I was able to torque to 50 lbs with no problem. I was careful to clean out the course threads on the engine with a tap. There was some rust and crud there. I added a little anti-seize paste when I installed them. Hopefully, this will work out ok. Here's pic of the install...

Thanks.

Spinneyhill, the gasket is brand new but the head is only "so-so" because it's old. I'm thinking the spray will help to fill in any small defects.

Ok thanks. It's back to ebay to search out an extra gasket just in case...

Hey Paul. Thanks. One question, can you ever remove a gasket after using that stuff? Or are they all pretty much done after one use. I'm thinking I should be acquiring a spare in case I have issues or want to do a valve job later.

Hi guys. Sorry I ask so many "dumb" questions but I'm a beginner. I am almost ready to install the news gasket and head on my '29 Graham Paige. The block and head are nice and straight. I'm wondering if you guys "dress" the head and block surfaces in some way before putting the gasket on. I've seen guys run a very flat sharpening stone over the surfaces to clean them up a bit. I did go over them with a razor blade to clean off some gunk. Do you believe in that sticky gasket spray or is it just a messy waste to time? Thanks.

Obviously, there's some controversy about this topic. It's always good when we explore issues like this. I'm going to re-use as many original nuts as possible and use ones of similar height for the missing ones. I'll have to guess at my torque setting as I don't have a chart for a Graham.

Hi guys. Several 7/16-20 nuts are missing for both my cylinder head studs and manifold studs on my '29 Graham. I noticed the old ones are longer or taller than a standard type you would buy (cat 5 or 8). Other than the look of them being mismatched once they're all on, is there a need to seek out these "high nuts". I think they could get a bit more of a grip on the threading and avoid stripping better. Any thoughts? Thanks. Geoff

It looks like the corn head grease is a pretty affordable option as well. John Deere sells it and it's not expensive.

Thanks you guys! Appreciate the advice.

Seems like this is the stuff... http://www.penriteoil.com.au/products/categories/veteran-vintage-classic/steering-box-lube I can't understand why anybody would use a thicker grease that would not "self-level" and fill in the gaps around the gear.

It seems weird to me that my steering gear box says to use grease. It has a filler cap and paper gaskets so I would think it would use a gear oil. I will look into the products you mentioned. Thanks.

I did. There's some augment about whether modern products are sufficient for this application. Just wondering what our members use or substitute.

Hi guys. My owner's manual for my Graham Paige 612 says I should use a "fibrous grease" for certain joints like the universal joint and steering gear box. I'm not sure what they're referring to. Any ideas?

Hey guys, the parts for the rear axle are VERY expensive if you try to keep it authentic with the 11/16" hose tee fitting. I'm thinking of using a more modern hose just in the back where it can't be seen. Does this diagram look ok to you? I'm essentially trying to avoid the expensive "vintage" parts and go with standard size 1/4" line in the back. So adapters at both cylinders to convert the 1/2" to standard 1/4" line. Both lines into a "tee". Then an adapter on the third fitting of the t to allow a modern hose to be used. I can get all these parts online for a fraction of the cost of the 11/16" tee alone.

Hi guys. I did find this one adapter fitting in my "junk" box. It converts the 11/16" brake hose to fit in the cylinder. I believe this is the same as part BRK 0013. I'm wondering if I can dispense with the banjo connectors at least in the front and go this way. Frank thought that's how Graham did it. I think using two BRK 0007s on the other ends of the front hoses should do. Now just figure out what I need for the back. Oh and thank you guys so much for helping out. I know I'm a rank amateur but I'm having so much fun (and frustration in equal measures) putting my car together. My wife would like to start seeing me again at some point but she'll be happy riding around in the car when it's done.

Ok I determined the cylinders do have 1/2-20 threading. I already have what I believe are three 11/16" fitting hoses. I will need to acquire two BRK 0013 adapters for the front, three BRK 007 to covert the hose ends to 1/4" line, one BRK 0012 tee and some kind of adapters to change the rear cylinders to df fittings. Expensive!

Ahh the banjo connectors are very interesting. I'll look into ordering the once I determine the exact thread size. As for the back axle I will need some kind if adapter to go from each cylinder to 1/4" line to a "tee" connector. Thanks Paul.

Hi guys. Went to get some brake hoses for my '29 Graham at the parts store and the salesman simply gave up after looking at the thread size. Does this cylinder have an unusual thread size? Is this an "AN" fitting? You can see the diameter in the pics and at the bottom of the hole is a taper. Are there hoses available with this connector or do you have to use an adapter? There is a number on the cylinders C 67697. Thanks.