GrahamPaige29

Hey jack. I just had a new water cover plate welded up. That will be my next priority. To get the cooling system in.

Thanks! I just ordered an olde fashioned muffler. Hope to get it on soon so I can hear that nice sound. Now onto the rest...

Hi guys. Success! The beast finally started yesterday. I checked the timing and it seemed all right. I checked over the carb and decided to disable the "power jet" which was allowing gas to be sucked by vacuum directly into the manifold. Yikes. I figured out that without the correct check valve installed, this can happen. I also bypassed the fuel pump to make sure it wasn't an issue and gravity fed the gas. It sounds rough as heck but here's video of it starting the second time. I didn't get the first startup as I wasn't expecting it to happen.

Hi Jon. I ordered a new power jet valve from Russell New Old Parts. It seemed that the number was correct because I used a Zenith specification bulletin I found online. Here it is... But the valve didn't fit. It was too small on it's threads. Very frustrating. I tried to start the car without it installed and it really flooded the engine. There was gas pouring out of the manifold. Yikes. Am I correct in assuming that the vacuum pulled gas right out of that pump chamber? If I were to thread a simple plug in the valve's place would it allow the carb to work? Sorry but I'm getting really frustrated with this and thinking of ditching this carb altogether.

Thanks Paul. Have a good American Thanksgiving. Canadian Thanksgiving was way back in October! We have it earlier because of the shorter growing season.

Roger that! I'll make a video!

Yeah it's a real lifesaver. I couldn't do it without you guys. I will be so relieved when I get then engine running. Then I'll finish the brakes and steering and take it for a boot around the block. Next, on to the body again...

Thanks Paul. I'm excited and a little nervous to try to start again. I have to go out of town for a couple of days but I should be able to try again on the weekend. Thanks to you guys for the guidance.

I mean with the orientation of the points that 4 and 1 are facing forward?

Hey Paul. I looked carefully at my wiring diagram. Can I assume that the distributor should line up exactly this way?

Ok thanks!

Can you let me know which wire is supposed to be nearest cylinder 1 when it's properly installed?

Ahh ok. I get it. Will check that for sure. Thanks!!

Thanks. I'm going to double check it all on the weekend. Marks lined up right on the cam/crank according to diagram for timing chain alignment. This is TDC exhaust. Intake valve should be just ready to open. Exhaust should closing at 10 degrees. Rotate engine to TDC compression. Both valves should be closed (and remain closed). Re-orient flywheel to reveal hashmark "Spark Pug Advance" position. (It's 180 off right now) easy to do. Check distributor with spark all the way advanced and make sure points have just opened. Make sure rotor is pointing directly at #1 contact. Ensure all remaining cables are in the right order clockwise...1-5-3-6-2-4. Start praying...

Thanks Paul. I will look at it again on the weekend. I think what happened was because I established TDC from a diagram in my owners' manual by the setup of the timing chain and marks on it, I wrongfully assumed that this is where the spark should be firing. But that is the exhaust stroke. It's the other TDC or compression stroke that is where it fires. I also assembled the flywheel back onto the motor at exhaust TDC. I assume this is why the "Spark Full Advance" hash mark is off as well. I'm actually quite relieved because I thought it might be carb problems but all the guys including Carb King were right when they said it's more likely a timing issue. He said that carb problems rarely account for a car not starting unless they are serious. I should be able to establish compression TDC by feeling the air rushing out and then re-orient the cables accordingly. With a Graham Paige, there is an off-center joint on the distributor shaft that prevents it from being incorrectly assembled. But that's doesn't mean your rotor is pointed at the right point or cable at the right moment. You have to orient them correctly including the right order. Sigh. This project certainly has it's moments of extreme frustration but I geuss that'll make it all the better when it's going... Thanks again.

Hey Jan. Yeah same issue with me. I did such a good job painting the parts that there was no ground or "earth" for the starter motor!!! I ended up grinding off some paint and running a strap from the engine to the frame just to make sure I have good ground.

Hey guys. Now that I have my engine spinning from the starter motor and the carb cleaned up can you help me with a (suspected) problem in timing. I had primed the cylinders as was suggested. On trying to start the car, there were bangs but I saw gases coming out of the carb choke! Am I right in having the "eureka" moment that the timing is set exactly 180 degrees off??? Meaning I've set it igniting on the wrong stroke TDC? Is this a common issue? I had a moment last night while I was lying in bed that this was the issue. My wife was mad at me that I wouldn't go to sleep but it was driving me crazy thinking about it. Also, there are timing marks on my flywheel that say "Spark Full Advance" but I think I assembled the flywheel 180 degrees off too. I think you're supposed to be using this as alignment on the compression stroke. I feel really stupid...

Hey guys I was able too find this s missing part and order one. It's the "power he valve" as is pretty hard to find. I managed to locate one after looking up the part number at the Old Car Manual Project. Great site for part numbers!

I had a very similar issue. I had to run a ground strap from the starter to the frame as I painted the parts too well and they were insulated. That plus the connections on the starter motor were very corroded inside.

Weirdly, this vendor does not seem to have a contact. Just payment for parts. Would anybody out there be able to look up a part number? A power jet jet valve for a Zenith model 11722A

Hi Jon. I did find these NOS parts online. Would one of these fit??? http://www.russellsnewoldparts.com/carb-parts.html Parts numbers C97-15-12 POWER JET VALVE C97-10-19 POWER JET VALVE C97-10-24 POWER JET VALVE He wants over fifty bucks for them. Think it's worth it? Thanks!

Hi guys. I mentioned this before but felt it was worth a new topic. My carb on my '29 Graham is a Zenith model 11722A. I did a rebuild on it with a kit from Carburetor Doctor. Trouble is, one of the parts seems to be missing/damaged that wasn't included in the kit. This type of carb has an accelerator pump which you can see in the first picture. I'm not super clear on how this works. But I know I had a heck of a time pulling the old one out due to corrosion. At the bottom of the cylinder I believe there is supposed to be a valve which the piston pushes on to let in additional fuel. Look at the bottom of the cylinder hole in the last picture. This seems to be completely mangled because I had to effectively drill out the bottom part of the old piston. This part is NOT included in any rebuild kit I can find online. Anybody have any expertise on this?

Look at the circular opening for the spring loaded piston. In the bottom you see the damage.

Hi guys. Took the carb apart again and gave it another cleaning. The only part I don’t get is the spring loaded brass piston. At the bottom of the housing there seems to be some brass remnants of the old one. Is this part essential to the engine turning over or it it some kind of accelerator pump?

Haha I'm still married. That's a good thing. You just have to take your wife to dinner once in a while so she knows you're still alive.