GrahamPaige29

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Everything posted by GrahamPaige29

  1. Sounds like a load of tripe to me. If it does, it is not open! And if it is open and the engine overheats, there are significant problems with the cooling system. Fix them! Agreed. I just got my radiator rebuilt so I don't really see how a thermostat could "restrict" enough flow to overheat unless the radiator is already clogged up.
  2. Thanks Spinneyhill. I'll take off the cap fitting and see what the diameter of that recess is. I was looking around online and there was a lot of debate as to whether a thermostat can overheat your engine due to restricted flow but the other evil is the incorrect operating temp so I guess it's best to install it...
  3. Hi guys. Excuse my ignorance once again on this subject. I'm restoring my 1929 Graham Paige Model 612. It's similar to a Ford Model A. My original owner's manual makes reference to the thermostat but the car as bought did not have one installed. Am I correct in assuming it originally had one inside the hose connector on the head? I curled the area in the pic. This isn't my engine but a similar one. I'm wondering what the operating temp of this engine might be and if the rad is necessary since it will only be driven in warm weather. I'm guessing you're all going to say yes since engines run better at specific temps. Next question...can you fit a thermo inside the hose based on it's diameter? I'm just not sure how it would fit in there.... Thanks. Geoff
  4. Hey you guys. I looked at the Griffin radiator. It was slightly too big to fit in my cowling and the neck of the fill cap is not long enough. I suppose I'm looking at a re-core at this point. Graham Man (S) I am going to take my radiator to a shop in Hamilton on the weekend and have them appraise it. We'll see if I have to mortgage the house to get a re-core. I don't think it's the type of thing you tackle yourself without the torch and experience. I will be going to the Brockville meeting next year. I met a nice couple from the Graham club down at the Greenfield Village old car show in Dearborn last month. They are going too. I am also going to Hershey for the AACA meeting in a couple of weeks. I'll let you know how the estimate for my radiator works out and if it's shot, we can talk about your offer. Thanks a lot guys. Beltfed thanks. New stuff sucks. Probably made in China.
  5. Going to Hershey for the first time with a pal. We're from the Niagara area of Canada. I have a Graham Paige and I'm looking forward to the flea market and especially seeing the Tucker display in the museum. I'll be the guy walking around with the "Steadicam" making a little movie about the event. See you there. Geoff
  6. Hey you guys. I am kind of wary of the cheap aluminum radiators but I did order one from Summit racing. I'm going to go over the river to pick it up tonight from my Post Office Box. It wasn't that expensive (which is probably a bad sign) I'll see if it's a decent fit in my cowling. If not, I'm returning it and will contact Graham Man for a possible replacement. If they're old, then I'm back to the option of re-coring an original. I appreciate that my Graham Paige is a more "unique" car but man, finding parts can be a pain. Those Model A guys could practically build one from new parts.
  7. Hey guys. It's a four row copper but the tubes are way thin. One of the problems is I stupidly cut some access flaps in the top tank to clear out the scale and now that they're soldered up, the guy at the rad store says that's an issue with recoring it. Rrgh. I'm a rank amateur some times. The Griffin model is the only downflow one I've found online that looks suitable. I've read that the two row aluminums are ok since the tubes are larger. I'm still thinking about it...
  8. Hi guys my radiator for my 1929 GrahamPaige 612 is worse than I thought. It's got lots of leaks in the core and to record it would be too expensive for me right now. Anybody have experience using a more modern aluminum radiator adapted to fit? This car is more of a driver for me so I'm not super concerned with authenticity. I found this two row aluminum radiator from Griffin online. The size is similar. It has a "trans cooler" on it. Will this be an issue or can I just ignore that? Thanks. Click to view larger image Have one to sell? Sell it yourself Griffin Universal Rat Rod Radiator w/ Automatic Transcooler 19x27.5 TCBR 1-70212 Click to view larger image Have one to sell? Sell it yourself Griffin Universal Rat Rod Radiator w/ Automatic Transcooler 19x27.5 TCBR 1-70212
  9. Hey guys. I’m reinstalling my clutch on my 29 Graham Paige. I forgot which way the thin springy wire on the throw out bearing was oriented. Up or down. It can be inserted either way. Any ideas?
  10. Hey who opened this can o' worms??? Just kidding. It's a worthy discussion of course. Here's all my manual says about new car break-in....
  11. HI guys. Thanks for the tips. I actually had to drain the engine anyways to double check on my pistons. I had a hunch that I had carelessly installed one of them 180 degrees off (rotated) which would mean the oil passage would be misaligned. I have corrected that and will refill with break in oil. Here is a pic of my oil pressure regulator. Bit of an odd one. I will take it off and examine it and send you guys some pics. I have the dash gauge on it right now (green tape is just holding the number plate in position). I am almost finished repairing the water cover plate and rad and will install them after Christmas. I'm off for a week which will mostly be spent on the car.
  12. Hi guys. Thanks to your help I finally got the engine running on my '29 Graham Paige. I still haven't finished the cooling system hook up but I did have it running briefly to test the timing etc. One thing that concerns me is the oil pressure seems very high. I had a gauge hooked directly onto the sender unit and once the engine got going it registered over 90. According to my manual, 40 is about normal. Also, where the water pump has a oil passage connected to it, I found there was excessive oil leaking during running which would mean to me that there is a lot of pressure there. I did try to keep about 2 thousands of an inch clearance between the journals and bearings by using shims and measuring with plastigauge. Now I'm nervous that some of the passages are clogged up somehow or there's another issue. Do you think the problem will sort itself out once I have the cooling system done and can let it run longer or should I pop off the connecting rod caps and see if anything's clogged? Sorry guys but I'm a nervous newbie. Geoff
  13. I did get a water distribution plate from Bill Conley when I was up in Cobourg a couple of years ago at the meeting. However, the cover on my car was so leaky, I made a new one from stainless. On my design, the water distribution holes are still there but they are part of the whole unit. I'll post some pics when I get it back from the welder.
  14. My version of that part was pretty much dead. It had been welded and repaired so many times. I used it as a pattern to have a new stainless sheet metal box made with the right proportions and a built in distribution plate. It looks a bit more angular but it should work fine.
  15. Hey jack. I just had a new water cover plate welded up. That will be my next priority. To get the cooling system in.
  16. Thanks! I just ordered an olde fashioned muffler. Hope to get it on soon so I can hear that nice sound. Now onto the rest...
  17. Hi guys. Success! The beast finally started yesterday. I checked the timing and it seemed all right. I checked over the carb and decided to disable the "power jet" which was allowing gas to be sucked by vacuum directly into the manifold. Yikes. I figured out that without the correct check valve installed, this can happen. I also bypassed the fuel pump to make sure it wasn't an issue and gravity fed the gas. It sounds rough as heck but here's video of it starting the second time. I didn't get the first startup as I wasn't expecting it to happen.
  18. Hi Jon. I ordered a new power jet valve from Russell New Old Parts. It seemed that the number was correct because I used a Zenith specification bulletin I found online. Here it is... But the valve didn't fit. It was too small on it's threads. Very frustrating. I tried to start the car without it installed and it really flooded the engine. There was gas pouring out of the manifold. Yikes. Am I correct in assuming that the vacuum pulled gas right out of that pump chamber? If I were to thread a simple plug in the valve's place would it allow the carb to work? Sorry but I'm getting really frustrated with this and thinking of ditching this carb altogether.
  19. Thanks Paul. Have a good American Thanksgiving. Canadian Thanksgiving was way back in October! We have it earlier because of the shorter growing season.
  20. Yeah it's a real lifesaver. I couldn't do it without you guys. I will be so relieved when I get then engine running. Then I'll finish the brakes and steering and take it for a boot around the block. Next, on to the body again...
  21. Thanks Paul. I'm excited and a little nervous to try to start again. I have to go out of town for a couple of days but I should be able to try again on the weekend. Thanks to you guys for the guidance.
  22. I mean with the orientation of the points that 4 and 1 are facing forward?
  23. Hey Paul. I looked carefully at my wiring diagram. Can I assume that the distributor should line up exactly this way?