ernee0722

Harry, I have a 47 Super C that I just acquired about 6 weeks ago and it has a nice top already on it plus I have been working on the car for the past 6 weeks fixing and detailing all the little and some big items so I have learned alot. I will give you a call later today and see if I can help you out. I believe my floating bar is all wood and here are a couple of pics for you to see.

You're right JohnD, It was supposed to be 4-0's but I put# 400. Thanks for the correction.

I don't know about you guys but I always use #400 steel wool for chrome and glass. Works like a charm,,,

Well, I got the torque ball seal changed out and I did it on a hoist using the come a long method. If you've never done it, and this is on a 47 Buick Super, it is a little slow and takes a bit of thinking but its not too hard. Next time is easy and having a hoist is nice so you don't have to spend the time on a creeper. The adjustable rod pictured in my last post is just a stabilizer and is installed last with no pressure put on it either way. I used 3M scotchbrite Roloc surface conditioning disks on a air tool to polish the torque ball and inner and outer retainers, it did a nice job.

Does anyone know what that adjustment rod is for, I'm just guessing.

I have one in that condition also, Thanks for trying.

Looking for a maroon drivers armrest for a 47 Buick super conv. pic of passenger side here

Pretty sure its a true 47, title shows 82,550 actual miles, a few more now since driving it, the engine number is 499572I-5 and from what I can find on the net, that is a 47 engine so gonna take a chance and say its a true 47. Also is that a tried and tested method? I presume it is and if thats the case, I'm not a poker player but I'm all in.

I sure did. Sent that one from I phone and auto correct got me.

Striking out on touché ball seal for 47 manual, any recommendations?

And thanks for the reminder of the left hand threads Ben.

That's good advice John, I think I will get all the parts you mentioned just because I would like it all fresh at some point in time, I don't have a lot of info on the past maintinence of this vehicle

Lots of good info here and many different Ideas, Thanks a lot guys for the input. I checked my engine today and the number is 499572I-5,, I believe it is a 47,,,,,,,,So a vulcanized torque ball seal is all I need? I'm thinking I may need more than that,

I don't know why I used Dynaflow torque ball in my explanation ,I guess I read about it and thought the 2 were connected, I have 3 sd manual with a torqueball leak. Just getting to know about these old Buick, I now know Dynaflow is a automatic but thought it pertained to the enclosed drive shaft system, Live and learn

Great! Sounds easy, Now just determine the engine and tranny and get the parts coming. Manual is on the way. Any special tools I need to come up with? Also, any tips on determining what year the engine and tranny are? Thanks again guys!

First Born, Thanks for the info, the leak would be about a 7 inch circle puddle overnight. It has little 2 inch puddle every time I stop for any length of time and I have been driving it about 4 times for about 70 miles in the last 2 weeks. Just drove it today and will look tomorrow morning and get a pic if I remember. Its manual trans so wouldn't be ATF. Can it be moved after this is started in case I have to reorder parts or some surprise. I'll have it in a friends shop so I want know if it would be in that spot and for how long. If I order all the parts right it shouldn't be too long.

Ok, I have searched to my best ability for info on the 47 but everything is for later years and it looks like this is one of the biggest problems with these closed dynaflow torque ball systems. I have a leak that is a little more than I care to have but not terrible. I have read these leaks can contaminate the diff. fluid, Is this the case with the 47? I have looked at parts on many websites and almost everything is for 48 and up. Any recommendations for parts? Is it worth it to do this repair and how long do they last if done correctly? Can the car be pushed around after this is started or is the diff. removed? Is there any other things I should replace other than the obvious if I should do this. I have done a nut and bolt restoration on a 67 mustang 25 yrs ago but this older stuff is a little different but I'm sure I can get it done. Any info on what I should get as manuals, parts, etc. on or any of my other questions would be great. As I stated before, I just got this a few weeks ago and just finished a color sanding and buffing. Seems to be in pretty nice shape except for a few things here and there. Needs a good going over before I take it too far from home. Thanks for any advice or info you guys can give.

Thank you, I only had the top up once to see if it worked ok and put it back down. I tested door switches and they are ok, must have a grounded wire between the courtesy lights and the switch Thanks again for the info.

So 1 probe where the wire hooks up and one on the metel case of the switch to get the reading? That's where I'm confused on the 6 volt.

Thanks for your info John,I do have the original wiring harness and from what I can see it's in pretty good shape and will take your advise on the fire extinguisher . I figured the plastic door plunger switch would turn them off but they don't . I guess both switches could be bad,I pulled them both out and seemed to be okey but not real sure how to test them with a ohm meter, not too experienced with this 6 volt stuff but learning . The switch in the back seat is factory and was hoping someone on here with a 47 has one like it and could tell me. I'll keep plugging away and get things figured out.

First time here, hope I'm posting this right. I just bought a 47 Buick Super Convertible and am just getting to know it but there are a few things I'm having trouble figuring out a couple things and hoped somebody could help me. First thing is, what is the switch in the left hand backset. Just a small on/off switch that I haven't been able to figure out and also the courtesy lights in the front seat stay on all the time. The bulbs were burnt out when I got it so I replaced them and they just stay on so had to take them out.