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neil morse

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Posts posted by neil morse

  1. For anyone interested in seeing what the correct interior looks like for this car, there are tons of great photos on this Mecum site of a stunning example that I assume is correct.  (I couldn't copy any of the photos to post here because they are some kind of different format.)  As has been mentioned, the real wood caps on the door panels are not correct, nor is the pattern for the seat leather.

     

    https://www.mecum.com/lots/1095236/

     

    Also, "Beaver Brown" somehow doesn't sound like a name that GM would have used for a paint color.  How about "Opossum gray?"

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  2. 2 hours ago, Manu said:

    Thanks Neil. How deep is the hole passage?

    I'm not familiar with the 233 ci engine, but my assumption is that it's basically the same design as the 248 in my car.  The passage into the water jacket is pretty short.  You can see this from the cross-section drawing I posted of the 248 block in my thread (reproduced below).  But the problem is that the opening for the drain at the lowest point in a very narrow part of the water jacket.  So when that part of the water jacket gets filled up with rusty bits, it completely blocks the opening.  So you have to find someway of "drilling" through the accumulated shards of rust to open it up.  Of course it helps if you have the head off and the core plugs removed, as I did.  As you can from the little video I posted in my thread (as well as the photo that Gary W. posted on my thread), the drain plug opening lines up with one of the core plug openings on the other side of the block.

     

    248_cross_section(2)_LI.jpg.f318574565006e2a2bc995068bab888b.jpg

    • Like 2
  3. 7 hours ago, kgreen said:

    Does your handle point downward?  I have several photos showing the interior door handle pointing downward in a position relating to between 7 and 8 o'clock.  If I flip the actuator I would then have interference with the door lock mechanism.  I'll examine this.

     

    I agree with Keith (@Buicknutty) as the forward tendency of a loose passenger in an emergency stop or collision, while hitting or accidentally grabbing the handle could pop the door open.

     

    Yes, I have set the handles on both front and rear doors so they are pointing downward.  This is the way they were when I first got the car six years ago, but I have since had all four door panels off for various repairs, replacing sound deadening material, replacing rubber seals, etc.

     

    door5(2).jpg.ad3387a7dca9b54187f7c71a61e146b0.jpg

     

    rear_door14(2).jpg.97db87a63b514b5d7fae170eb38ff83f.jpg

    • Like 4
  4. 22 hours ago, Jim Skelly said:

    The car in the Hagerty article is an actual Ferrari Dino -- a completely different animal, as Leif explained above.  As described in Wikipedia:

     

    "The Fiat Dino (Type 135) was a front-engine, rear-wheel-drive sports car produced by Fiat from 1966 to 1973. The Dino name refers to the Ferrari Dino V6 engine, produced by Fiat and installed in the cars to achieve the production numbers sufficient for Ferrari to homologate the engine for Formula 2 racing."

     

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fiat_Dino#History

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  5. Welcome to the AACA forums, Robert!  That's a great looking Buick you have there.  It's the same model and same color as my '41.  I'm sure you will get a lot of enjoyment out of it, and it must really turn heads in Germany!

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  6. That looks like a nice example of a very rare car, although the price seems a bit high.  But I can't look at one of these without thinking how sad that Gordon Buehrig's gorgeous Cord body ended up being repurposed by Graham.  The reworking of the front end is particularly unfortunate, with Buehrig's iconic "coffin nose" being transformed into a goggle-eyed frog.  The wonderful proportions of Buehrig's design were completely ruined.

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  7. Regarding the core plugs, I agree that it would be a good idea to remove those plugs and wash as much of the accumulated rusty trash as possible from the block.  However, assuming your '50 is like my '41 as far as access to the block, you will not be able to remove those plugs unless you either pull the head or remove the intake and exhaust manifolds.  As has been mentioned, there are three plugs on the driver's side of the engine under the manifolds and one plug directly at the back of the head.  The one on the head is impossible to reach with the head in place.  On my car, my friend and I decided to remove the head with the manifolds in place.  This way we avoided removing the manifolds (which are notorious for cracking when you're trying to reinstall them) and also had access to the plug in the head.  But even with the head removed, there was barely enough room to swing a hammer to drive the new plugs into the block.

     

    Here's a link to the part of my thread that shows what we did.  (Click on the arrow in the upper right corner to get to the right post.)  You will also see that I was able to borrow some DIY pressure wash nozzles to use with a garden hose to get as much of the trash as I could out of the block.  Good luck and feel free to send me a PM if you run into any problems.

     

     

     

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