Super8

I believe that I have one that I do not intend to use but the problem is that I have shipped the entire rack (with bumper) to France where my car is being restored. From memory the bumper was ok but probably needs replating. The car is at my uncle's so I can probably get an assessment of condition and pictures. I bought it for my '33 as it was missing the trunk rack and the bumper came with it. This one I believe was for a 1935 as the rack was fitted with stainless steel sheet metal trims. I am looking for one piece of the straight cast and chrome trim for the same. If you have one we may be able to do a partial exchange. If you are interested in discussing further contact me at jfmasbou@gmail.com

Hello, Have you found what you needed at this point per above?

Hello, I am looking for a spare part for my newly rebuilt starter for my 1933 super 8. I am looking for the sheet metal cup that covers the back end of it. Would you have any? If you only have complete starters I would also entertain that. Thanks Francois Masbou

Hello,I am reassembling a Packard Super 8 1933 engine. I am in the stages of setting the camshaft position in relation to the crankshaft.The camshaft gear has two “O”s stamped on its face. There are no marks on the crankshaft but there are some on the harmonic balancer. There is also a sheet metal tab pointing at the damper when the timing case is closed.I believe that I can set it by bringing #1 piston to TDC at the point where both #1 valves are closed and number 8 exhaust valves would Just finish closing.I do not understand however the purpose of the two “0” on the camshaft gear. There are no marks on the chain or the camshaft. Should there be one?Thank you for any inputSuper 8

Thanks to all for the usual great assistance of this forum.

Many thanks for the usual great support. A couple more questions result from the discussion though. Firstly, if you shunt the system is it not going to result in unacceptably higher oil temperatures? Also, if you put a through pipe, how do you seal the ends so that it does not leak between the end of the pipe and the housing?

Hello, I just started up my newly restored Super 8. It is a 1933 but is equipped with an oil cooler so i believe that it is a 1934 engine. Upon starting, the oil pressure was extremely high (around 80 PSI). We lowered it by adjusting the regulator set screw. It looks like the initial pressure spike sent oil on the water side as the coolant shows a lot of oil in it but the oil does not show water in it. We believe that the high pressure allowed oil to blow by in the cooler. Would this be possible? Has anyone encountered this condition? What is not clear is that now that the pressure is within spec we wonder if the blow by continues or is it just remnants floating to the surface or permanent damage. Does someone has either photos or material describing the cooler? We may have to remove it but would like to know what We are facing. Many thanks Francois Masbou file

Hello, Would anyone have a wooden 17" artillery wheel hanging around? I am looking for the bracket that holds the hubcap but I will consider buying the whole wheel if price is OK. Here is a picture. Thanks for looking Super8

Thank you for the great support Owen_Dyneto

Hello, I own 2 1933 Super 8 Coupes (1004). One is fitted with 750 x 17 and the other with 700 x 17 tires. Looking at different cars, I see that both tire dimensions are used. Which one is original and what is the logic? Any help is appreciated. Super8

Hello, Does someone happen to have a 1933-1936 Owen Dyneto regulator waiting to find a car? Part number is 21262. I would also settle for a NAPA Echlin VR755. I am sure that someone sold his old Packard and was left with it somewhere and has it on a shelf for the last 15 years Thank you much for any leads. Super8

Hello, I am looking for a windshield hinge for a 1933/1934 Packard. The length is just shy of 45". Please see the profile with the picture enclosed. This fitted all closed models except 1001. If you have one lying around there is a car looking for it. many thanks for any help FM

Hello, I am looking for a good set of the early rocker levers (the forged ones) for a 1933 Super 8. Also looking for interior trims (window surrounds) and rumble seat lower step for same. Let me know what you have. Will go to a good home Francois Masbou

Thanks for the tip on Carrillo SaddleRider. I will look them up. I think that I have a lot more research to do before my engine is running...

Hello again SaddleRider, I think that we are in the same logic, especially as the lubricants are much better these days, it is probably the best path. However: - I live in France and It is difficult to find folks/ressources that can help with matching a modern rod that would work. I imagine that due to the long stroke, you would have to find an industrial application or maybe a truck. Do you know an outfit that I could call and would have that capability? I tried Egge with no luck. - Surely, I am not the only one who had to rebuild the bottom end of an early senior. Even the 1935/1936 guys face the same issue. What do they use to rebuild theirs? - Finally, I am surprised that, as this has obviously been a problem for a very long time the Packard parts resellers haven't come up with a reasonable off the shelf solution for this issue.

Assuming that I would migrate to 1936 connecting rods with shells, are the crank journal the same? Bearing inserts do not seem to be available either for 35 and 36. Do restorers use other cars insert bearings? I have heard Chrysler Slant 6 may work? thanks for any advice

Great thinking HH56. This makes sense. SaddleRider - where did you get the idea that "Packard recommended babbit". It comes from the part book. See excerpt below.

Hello, I am restoring a 1933 Super 8 engine. This engine came in pieces. Two of the cylinders were sleeved. This engine was fitted with 2 different types of connecting rods. 6 connecting rods were the Babbitt type with part number 210100. The two remaining ones were part number 221642 fitted with shells! When I overlay these rods the length and the bores match. The Packard part took lists neither of these part numbers. It calls for PN 221641 (just one digit above the one fitted with shells). Furthermore, Packard explicitly recommends the use of Babbitt bearings and not using shells. Does anyone have experience with this or would have encountered these part numbers? Also, it seems that people who have used shells have experienced drastic loss of oil pressure. Can someone detail the reason behind it? Is it the lack of axial clearance on the crank pin? Here are some pictures. Thanks in advance for your input

Hi Myron, I have carefully looked at the mechanism and I am afraid that it will not work due to packaging. This is for a much larger window and I will not have the space to put it in. It will also not be geared with a sufficient ratio for my application. Thank you very much for taking your time and effort and sorry this could not work. Francois

Hi Myron, I am not sure whether it is the same or not but I am sure that it is worth exploring. Would you have pictures and basic dimensions? I will check if it fits within the recess. Thank you much Francois

Hello, I am restoring a couple of 1933 1004 coupes and am looking for some parts without much success. I need a good Packard Samaritan here . I am looking for: - The lower step to access the rumble seat. That is the step that is at bumper level (photo enclosed - the small one) - Rear shock links. There were several setups. Right one in picture enclosed - One ashtray (the one on the trim above the dash - see enclosed pic) - The complete crank mechanism to lower the rear window for access to the rumble seat Thanks for any help Francois Masbou