Curt Curtiss

While tracking down a potential heating issue I got to thinking about the ignition timing. I have two questions: - Manual Advance - How does this work and when do I use it? I suspect it is for starting but I have not needed to use it to start the car. When the car is running and I pull it out the engine slows down a bit, is that advancing or retarding the ignition when I pull it out? - Ignition Timing Adjustment - How do you set the timing on these cars, is there a way to do it with a timing light and if so where and how to I read timing. I have looked in all of the books I have bought so far and it is not clear. This is the set up I have, someone has installed a Chrysler distributor with electronic ignition in this car so that is the starting point. It also has vacuum advance and I noticed it appears to be taking full manifold vacuum.

Thanks! I am hoping mine will be in that range once I get it on the road. I am also not sure the timing is correct and I am trying to figure out how to check it out

I am new to this non-pressurized radiator stuff so here are my questions? - What should the typical operating temp be (like 90 to 95 degree day) - Should the car be able to idle at a stand still for extended periods without exceeding 212? - Has anyone messed with changing the fan out for one that pulls more air? We have not driving the car yet, I have just been testing it at a stand still idle. My first attempt is it ran for about 15 to 20 mins at about 80 degrees then finally crept up to 210 and I turned it off. I figured out I have the temp sensitive front grill but the mechanism was not hooked up and the salts were about half closed. I managed to figure out how to keep them fully opened and I tried again today and it was about 75 out and we ran it for about 20 mins at idle and it hit about 200 then we decided to quite and take it for a drive later today. to see if moving pushing air works better. I am just trying to figure out what is normalish.

Thanks! Is the same lube good for the rear end? I used to use the Sta-Lube SAE 85W90 SL24239 API/GL-4 Multi-Purpose Hypoid Gear Oil from NAPA for my old British cars that had brass and bronze bits. I understand only GL4 is safe for those and figured it would be good for these.

Awesome, thanks! I just rebuilt my box and picked up 2 bottles of the Penrite.

I am looking to top off the rear diff, the trans and free wheeling unit in our 8-98 and I am not sure what fluid I should use. Do these take normal 90w? Thanks, Curt

I did look at the Ruxton post and have a friend who did something similar on an old graham page and it has been holding. I am trying to avoid pulling my head but if it comes to that I may just send the block off for a proper welding repair.

I tried the JB Weld High Heat Putty and that did not work once I put 4 lbs of pressure on it. Next week I will clean the putty off and I will try the 2 part classic JB Weld. After that I have been looking at a product called Irontite that puts in a ceramic coating after the cooling system is flushed out. If that does not work I guess it is pull the engine apart and have it welded. I found http://www.indyheads.com/ who does it the proper way which is to place the block in an oven to get it hot then weld in repairs. They have to look at ti to see if there is enough metal to weld to. They also have a $500 min charge if they take it on. I have been looking at inexpensive ultrasound machines which can give you a metal thickness reading. Machine shops use these and I have found one on Amazon for like $140.00. Someone else said if there is enough metal and I can get a drill and tap in there then to put a bolt in with sealer on it. Lots of options depending on metal thickness. I would love to find a place closer to Nashville but no luck yet.

I have the repair manual for the 8-98 but the book has very little detail on the engine assembly and torque specs. Is there a book on the Auburn 8-98, 8-105 or any of the Lycoming straight 8 engines that shows pictures and provides assembly detail and torque specs on the engine?

I just bought a 33 Auburn 8-105 and the Lycoming straight 8 engine was rebuilt last year. The rear water jacket is leaking Into Oil (3 very small pin holes) and I am looking for the closed shop to Nashville TN that still works and repairs cast iron blocks. I have heard there is a spay welding technique that can be used to add more material and I am also interested in checking out the entire block to make sure thee are no other thin areas while it is apart. Fortunately it is in a water jacket and it seems to be in an accessible non-structural area. Any suggestions? Thanks, Curt

I have a 1933 Auburn Salon with a Russ steering box, what modern lube should I use in it?

I just got these from Stan and Carol at http://www.auburncordparts.com/