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Curt Curtiss

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Everything posted by Curt Curtiss

  1. Pete,, Correct, the one in my hand is the one I need and the one on my other car is a non-salon, Do you have one or two available for a Salon? Carl, I will be in Auburn this year so go ahead and bring it in case I do not come up with one for a salon, I need something at this point to hold the lens in.
  2. I am looking to buy the chrome tail light lens retainer ring for a 31-33 Auburn, also if you have the lens retainer springs I am looking for those. If you have the whole tail light and do not want to break it up I will consider the whole tail light.
  3. Thanks for the options, I will make some calls. Someone also pointed out the trim on a early 60's VW is the same dimension, it was cheap enough so I ordered a kit to see how it looks.
  4. Thanks for the tip! I just checked with a friend who has a bug and his does look to be the same dimensions, get a whole kit for $89 that fits a 54 to 63 bug from https://www.jbugs.com/product/111898111SS.html
  5. One of our cars has what appears to be brass half oval trim and the chrome shop messed one piece up (they said it was weak to start with and about 3 inches broke off one of the sides). Our other car seems to have aluminum (maybe Stainless) trim. It looks like pretty common 3/4 inch half oval trim that uses spring clips.Any idea where to source trim like this? I would take brass, aluminum or stainless if I could find it. Thanks,
  6. One of our cars has what appears to be brass half oval trim and the chrome shop messed one piece up (they said it was weak to start with and about 3 inches broke off one of the sides). Our other car seems to have aluminum (maybe Stainless) trim. It looks like pretty common 3/4 inch half oval trim that uses spring clips.Any idea where to source trim like this? I would take brass, aluminum or stainless if I could find it. Thanks,
  7. I am looking for a source for 3/4 inch Half Oval Molding (uses Spring Clips). This is the cowl trim for a 1931-1933 Auburn.One of our cars has what appears to be brass half oval trim and the chrome shop messed one piece up (they said it was weak to start with and about 3 inches broke off one of the sides). Our other car seems to have aluminum (maybe Stainless) trim. It looks like pretty common 3/4 inch half oval trim that uses spring clips.Any idea where to source trim like this? I would take brass, aluminum or stainless if I could find it.
  8. Our AACA club had a fire truck donated to us so our youth group can participate in the Great Race. We found the Chevy 235 has a damaged head so we are in search of a 235 Chevy Truck head cast number 3836848 if you happen to know of one. Please feel free to call me at 615-469-0633 and let me know what you have so I can hook you up with our build team. We are in Murfreesboro, Tennessee just outside of Nashville. Thanks, Curt
  9. 2 days ago I went ahead and tried the Belzona 1111 metal epoxy repair and that stuff is very tough when it dries. I am letting it set up for a few days then will take the block back over for a magnaflux, hopeful that will fix it. I talked to the ACD factory and they said they have had success using this stuff in the past.
  10. I am in search of a complete 1931 - 1933 Lycoming 8 complete engine or bare block. Please call Curt at 615-469-0633
  11. I am in search of a complete 1931 - 1933 Lycoming 8 complete engine or bare block. Please call Curt at 615-469-0633
  12. Another update: When I took the block back to the machine shop he found 2 cracks developed in the weld. My welder tried again but found the cracks moved and the areas they moved to were too thin in the water jacket to weld. I am looking for another block and also trying plan C: I purchased some Belzona 1111 metal epoxy and I applied it this morning and I just went down and took a spare blob I kept and whacked it with a hammer and this stuff is very tough. I am going to let it dry a day or two and see how it is once it totally cures. My issue it is very near where the valve spring is and I am worried about structure holding up. I am still looking for another engine but this may be my only option.
  13. UPDATE: Well I wanted to give you all an update after months of deciding what to do I took a dual path approach. I have a spare engine that would need sleeving and bearings so I cleaned that block up in case my next plan did not work The main plan was to pulling the engine out and disassembled it to bare block. I took it to a local stitchnlock expert and the location was in a place where it could not be drilled and tapped so then to plan B. PLAN B: I came across a company by the name of MuggyWeld and they have a special rod called a muggyweld 77 which is just for welding cast iron. This is a process that does not require preheating of the cast iron which was important to me because I did not want to melt out the babbot cam bearing. Ibought 2lbs of some very expensive rod for about $65 and ran it down to a friends shop who has successfully welded cast in the past. He drilled the ends and v'd out the crack and the muggyweld rods worked like a champ. Crack is all sealed and no strange noise or residual cracks from welding. ========================================== This is some info form the Muggyweld website on the rods, If they work this well all the time I am sold. https://www.muggyweld.com/product/77-electrode/ 77 is a premium electrode that produces welds which are high strength, crack resistant, and porosity free when applied to a wide variety of cast irons. The special tri-metal core wire has a high current carrying capacity and the specially designed coating converts the impurities of the base metal into slag instead of being trapped in the deposit. The high deposition rate creates an extremely narrow heat affected zone– a feature suitable for all weldable cast irons requiring post weld machining. 77 cast iron welding rods are softer than nickel rods, and have unique properties that allow the cast iron welds to stretch and elongate up to 300 percent more than other rods, which helps prevent the base metal and weld from cracking in the process. Here is a video of them doing a cast weld, no preheating of the block. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K85MH9Z5FPU
  14. We finally got to pulling the engine out of the 1933 8-105 and when we removed the pistons we were surprised. I found each of the pistons we labeled .060 over so that was ok. The strange part is they had a hole drilled in the skirt along with a "T" style slit in the sides of Pistons below the ring level. I have never seen this before, have you all seen this and what would the reason be for doing this?
  15. Not sure if this is the correct place to post or not, if not let me know. I am looking for recommendations and guidance on Lycoming 8-98 Engine parts sources.I have located replacements for the timing chain, valves, and guides but This is what I still need:Pistions - I am aware of Egge, are there any others?Rods/Insert Bearing part number - My rods are Babbitt but I want to convert to inserts. Does anyone have insert part numbers so we can get a machine shop to modify the rods, I have heard some "Alison something ???" bearings might be the ones? Are there any sources to buy rods that are already set up for inserts?Valve Springs - I want to replace the valve springs, any sources or replacement part numbers for replacement valve springs?Main Bearings - I would like to convert the mains to inserts, I know there are some modifications that will need to be done and have hear about modifying some Chrysler rod bearings to be mains but still have not found part numbers others have used, a part number would be helpful.CAM Bearings - Is there a new cam bearing that is available or are you all just reusing the existing if they look ok?I know this is a lot but any help is appreciated.Curt
  16. OK, here is a mystery noise I need help figuring out. I have a 1933 Auburn 8-105 with a Lycoming engine and it seems to run great ad idle and low speed flat service driving.My issue is when I am in 2nd going up a 1 block long hill or driving in 3rd going over 40 MPH for a mile or so I will hear a tick in the engine and it seems to loose a little power, not much though. As soon as I get back on level ground and let off the gas (no load) in about 20 to 30 seconds the tick goes away and I can continue driving on level surfaces or at low speeds with no issue. During the event it has good oil pressure and is running at about 170 degrees.I just changed the oil and put in fresh 40 weight oil with 1 quart of Marvel to see if that helps. I have only run it for about 10 mins with the new oil and marvel in it.I am thinking an exhaust valve might be sticking because if it were an intake I would think it might backfire through the carb and it does not.I may strap my gopro under the hood to try to get a recording of the noise.
  17. Our car was accepted and we are trying to see if the club or anyone else is attending. Also, is the club planning any other events?Other than the 4 hour show on Sunday there only seems to be the hanger party and dinner and we were hoping there might be more going on.www.bocaratonconcours.com/ Thanks,
  18. That is actually my next step becasue I know there are more internal leaks I can not see. Not excited about doing this one.
  19. Our two Auburns (8-98 & 8-105) have the incorrect distributors so I am looking for two Delco 660Z Distributors preferable in working order. I found one rebuildable but still been one more if anyone has one.
  20. WOW, that is cool. Which JB weld did you use, the classic or the newer putty? Since we are fairly new ACD members and the forum has been having problems I have bit been able to access old news letters. I just sent them another note asking to correct my permissions then I can do some reading
  21. OK, I think I might finally be onto something. I think I mentioned this has a Chrysler distributor in the car. I looked up the part number and it is out of a Dodge 318 and as I looked into it the Chrysler turns clockwise. So I started looking at the Lycoming 8-98 and the firing order has it turning counter clock wise. This confirms it is creating a timing issue since turning backwards I am pretty sure the counter weights are not advancing the timing. Now to track down the original dual point distributor.
  22. The last owner installed an aux temp gauge because the factory gauge did not work. I did check with an IR and it looked to be very close to accurate. I checked the thermostat housing and it read about 210, the top neck of the radiator was about 205 and the bottom neck of the radiator was between 137 and 145 as I recall. The water jackets around the cylinders seemed to be in the 170 range but the top head area was more in the 200 range. Have any of you tried Water Wetter, trying to see if it can hurt anything? Here are some things I plan to try next: - Time the engine by vacuum - Test radiator flow (hopefully while on the car) - Check to see if there is a thermostat and if so is it working correctly. - See if I can open block cooling ports and clean them out. - Install a new 50/50 mix of coolant - Inspect Water Pump impeller (note sure how to do this one yet)
  23. OK, I tried something yesterday and I got some strange results. It was about 80 degrees out and I disconnected and plugged the vacuum advance port in the manifold (this has a distributor with vacuum advance that is not stock. We took it for a drive through the neighborhood and when we were cruising at 25 it ran 205 or 210, when we were under load up hill it dropped to 195 but when we were down shifting going down hill under no load it ran back up to 210-212. At idle it would stay at 210. I checked the vacuum set up on the distributor and it looks like at full vacuum it retards the ignition. I have had some guys look at it and say it should not have full manifold vacuum so I am looking for some guidance form anyone who is familiar with this conversion. I am still thinking it has something to do with the timing but have not ruled out a radiator issue. Has anyone had a custom radiator built with extra cores for cooling capacity or aluminum technology?
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