Wooly15

Well, you guys were right...things' pretty fragile. I pulled a little too hard and snapped the wire off of the sending unit. Oops! . Would soldering it back work? I know it's nigh impossible to find a replacement.

Got it, I see what you're saying. Any idea what the thread size is for the stock hole?

All of the gauges I've seen have relatively large sending units. How would you get it in the water manifold without interfering with the thermostat?

I am talking about a mechanical gauge. Something simple. I'm going to have to remove my factory one to repair it eventually. At cold it reads N and running its slightly higher than N. I wonder how much of a difference of a temp reading there is between the upper hose and the head. Is it close enough to give me a good idea of running temp?

I bought a piece of fabric from Walmart that I made into a seat cover. It's working for now in the front. The back is better off , the vinyl sections are the worst. The front and rear fabric doesn't match for some reason. The headliner and floor pans need done immediately and I was just wondering if I should just have it all done all at once.

I wish it were just the foam. The fabric is actually torn and cracked front and rear. It's not salvageable.

I apologize, I know there is a thread about this but I cannot find it again. I'm looking to install a temporary aftermarket temperature gauge and was wondering which ones will work with a nailhead. I'd like to use the existing hole for the factory gauge. My gauge is not working properly and I'd like to know how hot I'm running until I fix it. I thought I remembered reading that the sending unit bulb needs to be fairly long in order to read correctly. thanks in advance, Adam

That's what I thought. Seemed high. Thanks. I'd still like to hear how much you guys have paid recently for similar work. If you don't mind sayin'. Adam

The original seat fabric is very worn and stained, it has to be replaced including some foam. That quote was for two tone vinyl.

Well, now that the super is running reliably, and I'm selling my truck, it's time to start on the interior. I'm planning on having a pro do the seats, door panels, and headliner. Can anyone tell me what a fair or average price should be for these? I've never had anything done like this and would like to avoid spending too much. My first estimate was $6500 for seats, headliner, carpet, and panels. Is that average? I've considered ordering pre-cut upholstery and trying the seats myself. This is a super 4 door sedan by the way. Lots to do! Thanks, Adam

Can they match the "easy eye" green tint? That was my biggest concern going to a glass shop.

Is the rear door glass the same on both sides? My daughter slammed the passenger side rear door pretty hard the other day and now there's a nice crack. The donor Super at the junk yard only has a good back window on the drivers side. Are they interchangeable? Adam

Of the two I bought at the junk yard (from the same car) it seems one had stainless and one had aluminum. Put some very potent drain cleaner (sulfuric acid) in both for an hour. One had a very strong reaction and the mesh completely dissolved. The other must be stainless because it's still there. Guess GM used what was available to shred and make filters from.

I never knew stainless wasn't magnetic. Hmm. Well, according to Sgt. Maj. Google, some is, some isn't. I just assumed since mine wasn't magnetic is was aluminum. Learn something new every day!

Turns out the mesh in mine is aluminum. Going to dry and dissolve it.

Correct. Old old stock, filter mesh shavings and all: If anyone is interested, one of these is extra. I only needed to replace one. Shoot me a PM.

Oh I know not to use the fine steel, it wouldn't last. As far as finding a new one, I'm trying to keep my Buick all original (looking).

Got the mesh out of the the center area. The rest around the outside won't hurt anything if ot comes out. Now to find some stainless steel wool.

My 56 super with her new shoes

I soaked them in mineral spirits overnight and when they dried it still falls out.

I'll see if the Mrs. will let me use one.

Looks like I'm going to be digging all that mess out with something. I don't think it's worth cutting and re-welding. Thanks for all the tips though.

Haha! NOTHING is ever easy. Is the original stuff stainless or aluminum? If it's the latter, I could dissolve if with acid as long as the cap itself is steel.

I was wondering if I could fold those tabs back and take it apart. I have an aftermarket cap on now and am looking to get back to all original.

Any tips or tricks to remove and replace that mesh? I picked up a few caps at the junk yard this weekend and the old mesh is falling out like snow. I'd like to replace it before it falls down in the motor.