Wooly15

Thanks for the info. I plan on doing the wheel cylinders and if that doesn't help, move onto the master.

Sorry, I should have specified. My brakes are very mushy and the easy route of flushing/bleeding them didn't really help. I'm looking for an all-in-one kit that would include cylinders, springs, shoes, etc. Are there any quality kits like that out there? I haven't take. The drums off yet, but I may as well overhaul things while they're off.

I'm looking for a good brake rebuild kit for my 56 super with power brakes. I can only find the one on eBay for almost $300 and it doesn't even come with cylinders. Anyone have a good source? Adam

They look a little more solid than Mylar in all the pics. They'd have to stand up to constant kicking.

I've noticed in pictures that roadmasters have a metal kick panel at the bottom of the doors. My super's doors are in good shape except that area. Those would be a nice band-aid until I can afford to restore them. Any idea what those panels are called?

Thanks for the info guys. Sure would have been nice to have a spare dynaflow lying around. It's the only thing I don't trust in the old girl.

Wanted to get some expert advice on a Craigslist find before making an offer. Guy states this dynaflow is for a '52. What years is this compatible with, it even is a '52. He didn't sound sure in the post? My '56 leaks but works well, it would just be nice to have a spare. I found quite a few posts relating, but they are very dated or the attachment is gone. thanks, Adam Dynaflow transmission $490 http://baltimore.craigslist.org/pts/5678536235.html

Good to know. Thanks for the info. Adam

I'm in the process of replacing/painting what I can on my 56's nailhead and have gotten to the exhaust manifolds. The originals were cracked in half, so I picked up some really nice ones from a low mileage doner. There are traces of Buick green all over the replacement manifolds. Were they that color from the factory? I've never seen any that color. I wouldn't imagine that factory green would last long on them anyway. I am going to try VHT grey, just thought it was strange that they may have been the green.

Roger that! Off to paint! Thanks

I have it pulled so I might as well paint it. My question is: can I get by with the regular rustoleum style paint? The only high temperature paint I can find is flat, and the original paint is gloss. I know it will see heat but how much?

Got it. Thanks again. Carb is back together, just waiting for the intake to get cleaned before I try it out.

Disregard, I figured it out. Thank you. Ok another newbie question...the plates above the secondary with the counterweight that are held shut by gravity. Can someone explain its purpose?

Thanks, I can see how the inner spring attaches, but how about the outter one?

Ok, I made a mistake. I took my carb completely apart for complete rebuild and cleaning. The manual and video series I have are apparently for the wrong carb and I didn't realize it until it was too late. Does anyone have reassembly procedures for the secondary throttle shaft and the springs that go on it? is that secondary supposed to stay closed or open under tension? The shaft that im pointing to with the screwdriver. At this point in my frustration, I'm not even sure if both springs go on that shaft.

Thanks, guys. Exactly what I was looking for.

I took the intake off of my 56 super this evening and on the bottom is a small plate, about 2x2" square held on by 2 bolts. It's rusted through on the plate and I don't know what it's called to order a new one. Can anyone point me in the right direction? Sorry, forgot to get a pic before I came inside. thanks, adam

The tires that the prior owner had on are 235/75R15 radials rear and bias ply Goodyear 8.20-15 up front. They don't seem to rub. Don't worry, I'm only driving around the nighborhood with that setup until I get my permanent tires in. He apparently drove around all over the place like thatand I'm surprise he never put it in a ditch.

Correct me if I'm wrong but wouldn't L78 bias ply tires be narrower that radial 235's? Shouldn't that alleviate some rubbing?

I was afraid you'd say that. I really didn't want to have to buy another bumper. I may (temporarily) get creative with turn downs to avoid a new one for now. Ok, need some tire advice...I know these are bigger than stock, but someone local has a set of L78-15 whitewall bias ply tires for sale that are a really good deal. I believe that is the equivalent of 235's in radials. Has anyone ever run that size tire without rubbing? I need new tires and it's hard to pass these up.

Ok, I may have just bitten off more than I thought with my new exhaust. My existing exhaust is single. I purchased the earlier mentioned set of manifolds that are for dual so I thought, "hey what a good time to upgrade." I know I'll need new hangers on the driver side, but I just realized my bumper isn't correct. Anyone ever cut out the ends of the bumpers to fit the pipes? My chrome is in bad shape back there so that's not an issue. I bought the pre fab exhaust so I would assume it's made to factory specs to the bumper ends. Other than that and hangers, any other issues I should be ready for? Adam

I made such a mess lowering the jar, it was almost comical.

Gotcha. What's the best method of keep oil from going all over when initially taking out the old filter?

Coolant flushed, new points, plugs and oil. Still needs a carb cleaning but starts and runs 100% better. When changing the oil filter element, I couldn't find the old gasket so I assumed it either fell in the catch pan or there wasn't one there. I even scraped around with a screwdriver. First test run and oil was POURING on the ground. It was still up in there, hiding, not letting the new one seal. So, any tips/tricks to not making a gigantic mess when changing that filter? My 61 f100 had the modern filter adapter installed before me. This is my first rodeo.

The oil isn't milky and there's no oil in the coolant after it settled all night. I think it's just been way too long between flushes.