SCOTT's 90's
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Posts posted by SCOTT's 90's
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Is your Reatta parked outside in the cold if so this will also impact the battery, especially if it is old and weak. Either way I always keep my battery on a tender from Fall to Spring if I am not driving it within 5 days.
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On 2/14/2019 at 8:17 AM, Phils38cpe said:
If you mean that the numbers go up and down on the display when you push the temp up and down but the air coming out the vents stays the same then I would look to the unit behind the glove box. I think it's called the A/C controller. To check, remove the glove box then change the temp using the button and see if the little motor moves the rod back and forth. Sounds confusing but when you see everything it will make sense.
The temperature valve door controller will have trouble over time -- I mean our cars are about 30 years old. If that is working as it should you might want to check the vacuum hoses that are underneath the controller they will crack or become unplugged.
As 63viking said check out Ronnie's ROJ site under How-to-Guides and look at No Heat - Troubleshooting . Here is a link but not sure if it will take you to the exact one.
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On 2/14/2019 at 4:17 PM, 2seater said:
Needs a fuel pressure gauge on it and a spark test indicator to simultaneously check for fuel and spark when it starts and then stops. Some fuel pressure should remain even if spark goes away.
Very good suggestion from 2seater...
When I was having similar stalling trouble I got both of those and put them in the back of seat (Not in the stow away) so that I could grab them real quick and do the tests on the side of the road - If need be. I actually did have to do this one day when it stalled - This proved that I did not have an immediate issue with fuel pressure or spark.
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Actually Yes it is still driveable - My cluster went out a couple years ago and I decided to take it out to inspect it. In doing so I had to go on an errand so I took my 90" to do it, the only trouble was I didn't know how fast I was going ... 🤣. After that I had to break down and get a replacement cluster which took a couple weeks, the whole time I had to drive the car without the cluster installed.
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Your best bet is to go with Dave, since you said someone has done a number on your switch. Bad things can happen if the switch isn't put together properly and you don't want to go there.
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Just before I put my Reatta away for the winter I got into the trunk to get the cover out and low and behold the trunk mat and the underside of the trunk was dripping wet. The only explanation I could come up with was humidity causing condensation...Good thing I caught it when I did or that would have been bad come Spring!
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Hope you will continue to visit us on the forum now and then.
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One things for sure - It Really does SHINE 😎 Very nice Vert!
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Thank you Ronnie for your help and everyone else. Coming from ROJ originally I can honestly say you have done a fabulous job there and as a modulator here. I personally wouldn't like to moderate a forum like you said you can't please everyone. If no one else takes the opportunity I am sure you will continue to do your best - kudos to you!
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Oh okay, Thanks for that I guess we can chalk up another difference between the years. 😉
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Actually there is a little plastic tab that extends over the gap to keep the two pieces flush with each other, which yours appears to have been broken off. But it is no big deal since it is not that visible anyways.
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Be very careful when removing those - The little plastic alignment pegs (in each corner on back side) break easily. If more than one breaks the whole thing will not stay in place and you will be worse off than before with just the bottom piece broken.
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Scott,
I just replaced mine a month ago and it works great, because it is an AC Delco OEM. I bought it off of RockAuto for $134 with a 5% discount. here is the Info: (Note the Bolded CS144)
ACDELCO 3351224 {#19298376} (New) Professional
Pulley Outside Diameter 2.2 IN Pulley Outside Diameter 57.0 MM Voltage 12 2H DE to Pulley 1st Groove 0.87 IN DE to Pulley 1st Groove 22.0 MM DE to Rotor Shaft End 1.69 IN DE to Rotor Shaft End 43.0 mm Plug Clock Rear View Main Mounting Ear at 6 O Clock 10 Plug Type 309 Terminal Connection Quantity 4 Alternator Case Material Aluminum Finish Same as OE Fan Type External Ground Type Negative Rotation Direction Clockwise External Fan Included Yes One Wire Capable No Pulley Included Yes Family Delco CS144 Pulley Groove Quantity 6 Pulley Belt Type Serpentine Regulator Type Internal Amperage Rating 120 68 Mounting Type 1 Pivot Foot Alternate/OEM Part Number(s): 19298376
Here is the discount code and directions:
9586151991308087
How to Use Your Discount Code
Enter the code above in the "How did you hear about us" box without any other numbers or characters.
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Dave is right - using the small tubing works great. Although after checking mine a couple months ago to make sure it was still in place I noticed that the tubing was starting to flatten out so the seal wasn't being pushed out against the glass as well as it was when new. I got to thinking that in the spring I will go to a hose supply co. and get the 1\4" braided tubing which has braided string inside the vinyl making it much more rigid.
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UPDATE! Dec. 10th
So to catch up those who might be interested in this - I last decided to remove both the BCM & ECM's to check them and make sure the plugs were tight etc... Then I posted a question about bubbling on the back of the ECM's circuit board (which turned out to be normal), but I am a little bit suspicious about it.
After that I really wanted to swap the modules with my other Reatta, but it is in storage and the weather has been snowy, cold and smoggy. So I broke down and decided to order a refurbished ECM. Well it showed up today and I switched out the PROM's and temporarily installed it (It is just kinda hanging down from the dash). I connected the battery and crossed my fingers and turned on the ignition to check for codes - No codes other than the normal 552, so I cleared the codes and then started her up. She fired up quickly and I let her idle for a bit until she was almost at normal temps. Then I got brave and decided to take her for a spin to the store and back.
She ran great no problems so far! I will continue to take her on small trips to see if all holds out and the issues do not come back - I hope they don't.
I will keep those updated.
Thank You
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Okay Thanks guys!
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So I finally got my ECM out and thought I would just check a few things internally since I have some experience with circuit boards, I did not expect the following .....
In all my years of electronics I have never come across this before. Apparently this is common in older PCB's, but WOW this looks bad!
This is the back of my ECM and it covers the whole thing. I know that this is okay as long as there are no breaks in the traces, but who is to say there isn't. Could this be my whole problem, Will someone give me their input on what I should do??? My other Reatta is inaccessible for the time being due to the weather so either I have to buy a good ECM or wait till spring and try the other one to see if that is the culprit.
Thank You for any help
Scott
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So the past couple days I have been working on some things
- I checked the Cam shaft sensor and magnet and all is well with those - The magnet was a little dirty with some stuff stuck to it so I cleaned it up the best I could, but at least there are no cracks etc.
- I checked the Crankshaft sensor and cleaned it up a little too. I also unplugged it and added some di-electric grease to the terminals and plugged it back in, but without removing the harmonic balancer that was all I could do at this time. If further testing points me to the sensor being bad then I will have to replace it, but I think it is okay for the time being.
- I tested the ICM again and then tested for spark on the 1-3-5 plugs everything was normal.
- I cleaned the ignition cylinder the best I could and now the key goes in smooth and turns better.
So being very excited to check out my efforts hoping to have solved my issue I started it up and backed it out of the garage to let it idle for a moment. I got out and cleaned up the mess on the floor and after about 5 minutes the dreaded issue happened again ... IT JUST DIED!!! It was idling fine around 600rpm it was like someone just turned off the ignition, no sputtering or anything it just shut off. There was no indication on the IPC it had a problem, all normal.
I quickly attached the fuel pressure guage and turned off the ignition and turned it back on then checked the pressure - a solid 46psi, I then thought I would try to start it and nothing just cranking, so I waited a minute to try again and well guess what, it started - Like nothing ever happened! The fuel pressure is now reading 38psi (Running) which is normal, checked the codes and nothing. I then took it for a drive and accelerated aggressively. It performed well like a normal car, I went back home and parked it back in the garage -- back to the drawing board!
- I decided to remove the glove box and get at the BCM, checked the plugs and they were tight nothing out of the ordinary. I removed the plugs and then the BCM, I then removed the PROM cover and when I checked it by pressing each one down making sure they were seated both of them were raised a little bit ... Hmmmmm. They are seated now but not holding my breath that being the problem.
So that is as far as I have gone, I will re-install the BCM tomorrow and remove and check the ECM/ECC and a few other things before doing another test run. DOES ANYONE KNOW OF A SIMPLE BENCH TEST for these computers that doesn't require an oscilloscope? If not I will try to do the on board tests, a little difficult with only one person...lol.
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Update!!!
So with the weather and Holidays I haven't had much time to do anything, but I did find a spare CPS that came with the other Reatta. I also ran into another issue, since I have had my hood up the whole time one day last week I went out into the garage and found the hood almost closed. My first thought was someone closed it, but when I went to lift it back up it just came back down .... AHHHHHH!!!
My struts gave out which is a bit weird since they look fairly new, come to find out they were replaced back in 2010. Wow really??? they didn't last very long so now I am in the market for either new ones or maybe a set from the PNP.
Does anyone know by chance what other models use the same struts for the hood?
I will try to get a few things done this week and hope to narrow down my cause.
Thanks
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Yeah it would be interesting.
Another reason why I am questioning or suspecting the ignition area is because I remember I had just went over some pot holes and it rattled the car and then it did the stalling thing.
So I wasn't able to work on it today since there were family gatherings going on, hopefully tomorrow I can check the CPS and maybe get my other Reatta out of storage and try swapping out a few major components like the ECM.
Thanks
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13 minutes ago, Ronnie said:
Since you lost the tach signal I would put my money on the Crankshaft Position Sensor or possibly the ICM.
Ronnie,
Yeah I plan on checking the CPS tomorrow if the weather is good and will post my results, Thanks!
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Here you go Ronnie
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Hello Everyone,
First off I know it has been a while since I have posted, I am sorry! I have had a lot of life issues lately -- let's just say that Medicare/Social Security/Workers Comp....etc. Sucks!!! I have also been without a computer for quite sometime since my laptop decided to take a crapper and so I have been using my friends computers and my cell phone for internet stuff - What a Pain. I finally got a new laptop recently and things are starting to get better.
So anyway, I have not been doing much with my two cars, just maintenance ... Yeah maybe I put a total of 200 miles on both of them together in the last year and a half.
A few weeks ago I went to take the Blue (Blue Interior - 182,000 Miles) out on an errand about 10 miles round trip. about 5 miles in I came to a stop light and when green I started accelerating to the speed limit of 40 after driving about 100ft and going about 40mph when all of a sudden my CEL light came on and the RPM's dropped to 0 and engine stalled for about a second then it went back to normal ( No CEL light and RPM's @ 2500 ) then about 10 seconds later it did it again but this time it was a complete stall and I had to crank the steering wheel to go around a corner of a side street before I coasted to a stop(remembering those days without power steering).
So then I tried to start her and I got the famous "Crank No Start" symptom. I then checked the diagnostics for codes and all I got was b119c and the b552H which I had the battery unplugged a week ago, Nothing else. I cleared the codes and tried to start it again...Nothing. I then pulled out my fuel pressure gauge and tested it and got 46psi I tested the coils and plugs getting voltage and spark. After that it had been about 10 minutes so I PUT the key back in the ignition and tried to start her again and it fired right up like a dream and idled @ 650 RPM's.
The only thing a little out of the ordinary was when I first got in to go on the errand was the Key was somewhat difficult to insert into the ignition and the cylinder was a stiff to turn to start it. I know that when the key resistor pellet is inserted and read a signal is sent from the VATS to the fuel enable circuit that it is good or bad. If it is good all is well and we are happy, if not then it is disabled and it won't start. So now here is the question; If at any time there is a problem with the circuit and the VATS thinks it is triggered will the ECM send a fuel or spark disable causing a "Stall" ? It says in the FSM that if the signal is lost while the engine is running the ECM will store a code E058 and the vehicle will still run normally but I didn't get any codes.
Yesterday after 2 days of cleaning and diagnosing I took it for a spin to a friends house just down the street and I was thinking problem solved. When I went to go home I tried to start it and I got the Crank No Start again. So I checked codes and did a few diagnostics and tried it again...Nothing. Then I thought I would try to remove the key and put it back in to see what happens...Well it started!!! Also before anyone asks - The "SECURITY" light on the IPC lights up for 2 seconds and goes out supposedly indicating that the VATS is working correctly.
Has anyone had a similar issue and am I barking up the right tree or am I out in left field. It just seems a bit strange that the cylinder is soo stiff and the key is difficult to insert (I have also tried the spare key). I have been reading here on the forum mostly Ol' Yeller and have done many of the suggestions found there, now I am not sure what to do other than do more diagnostics on the ECM, ECU.
Thanks for any ideas.
Scott
My Diagnostics/Fixes/Cleaning:
Newer Magnavox coils
New Spark Plugs
New Generator/Alternator 14volts
Newer Battery 12-14volts
Cleaned MAF
Cleaned EGR
Tested Fuel pump - 46psi
Cleaned IACV
Cleaned/Tightened Grounds & Positives
Checked wires under hood for breaks/kinks
Checked Fuel Relays R&R
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I would do as Padgett suggested and pull the bumper first and check the frame. Those 25+ year old bumper pistons aren't very dependable and most times will not return due to leakage or rust. Sometimes if they haven't failed you can pound on them and they might pop out.
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89 Reatta rough idle
in Buick Reatta
Posted
When you say it is idling between 900 and 500rpm is it idle hunting?
Does the idle rise quickly to 900 and then quickly fall to 500, Or is it just a gradual movement?