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SCOTT's 90's

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Everything posted by SCOTT's 90's

  1. Eureka! It worked! Thank You Padgett, I guess it was just short enough to not make a good connection. I think I will take a break from working on my cars for a little while, that was too exhausting and frustrating, I need to enjoy the Reatta to get my spirits up and then I will think about doing another project. Thanks for everyone's help
  2. Okay, I just went out and took the ICM and Coils off of my running Reatta (Started it before I removed it) and put it on the problem child and had the same results - Not Starting! Has anyone come across something where the wires on the ICM connector have been moved or rewired? Because on the one that is running the connector has 13 wires going to the pins and the other connector has all wires going to all 14 pins but one of the wires is missing (Female side) - sorry confusing, so one connector has 13 wires and the other has 14 wires but missing the female connector and the connecti
  3. Hi Ronnie, Yes all the spark plugs are working great, in fact I just changed all of them this morning because of the Gap difference with the new set up requiring .060" There are No codes.
  4. First off, I know this has been discussed several times in the forums and I have looked, read, tried and tested to no avail. So about two months ago since I had more time to spend on the Reatta's I figured I would do a little maintenance. Most of all I wanted to check the original ICM (Magnavox) and sure enough it is showing signs of the green omen. So I started my venture to the pick yard and picked up a set of the newer Delphi coils and ICM from a Lumina that looked pretty good (No rust or corrosion). I should also mention that I have already replaced the ICM and coils on my othe
  5. Hi Josh, Yeah I had a similar issue with the "hard Pushing" of the button before mine blew up too. As far as keeping it all together you may have to get a used switch, or see if someone here has a bad one that they would sell you. One important thing about these switches is if there are any loose or non-operable parts inside the switch it will cause arcing which would completely melt the switch or even worse cause a fire which you do not want. The reason for this is there is power available to the switch even without the ignition on - so be careful.
  6. Yes Ronnie I still use most of the data there, either for diagnostics or regular maintenance. As said previously if you can keep it going it would be great.
  7. Hi Stanley, Yeah those are the worst to remove. I tugged on mine for what seemed like an hour but finally after a lot of force they came apart. They are like the speaker connections on some cars that have a tiny pin on the blade end (male) that fits into the terminal end hole (female).
  8. Yes the BCM is behind the glove box and is removed that way. The ECM is also behind the glove box but is removed from under the glove box, you will have to remove a few of the vacuum lines in order to pull it out all the way - It is kinda tricky. I hope it is the same for the 89' if not please correct me someone - Sorry if I am wrong. Do you have a FSM Factory Service Manual, if not you might want to get one.
  9. Thanks Ronnie for clearing that up, I couldn't remember what it was called. Mine is broken and like you CBChadwell I have foregone the idea of tearing into the dash to fix it so I just live with it the way it is for now.
  10. Wait WHAT! the odometer is actually increasing the miles??? So the computer actually thinks the car is going 124mph ... Hmmmm
  11. Sorry I didn't mean to jump to conclusions - Check the other things suggested above and let us know what your results are.
  12. I actually found one last year for a whopping $95.00 I guess I found it at just the right time It wasn't NOS but from a low mileage car and still had the purple sticker untouched.
  13. Does air come through the vents when you switch it to them, (not defrost or floor but bi-level) if not then the mix door that controls the direction of the air - the arm may be broken.
  14. Like Barney and Dave said there are many on eBay, for example; reattapartscalifornia - eBay seller just recently discounted (if you want to call it a discount) a NOS 90' Headlight switch for $506.59 orig $595.99 so yeah they are going to be highly priced.
  15. "COMPLETELY DESTROYED BY YOU" Reading that just made me cringe 😢
  16. Nittany, That is interesting, would you know if the factory added those stripes over top of the painted one or are you saying that the owners did it? Reason I ask is mine had the vinyl stripes put on over top of the painted ones, but they were the exact same color...Hmmmm? I have since removed all of the vinyl stripes since they were coming off in places, plus I think the original pinstripe looks best and I can brag about it being hand painted.
  17. About 10 or so years ago I bought a solar panel from Cal Ranch (Not sure if you have one where you live) for about $30. It is 15" square (They had other larger sizes too) with an aluminum frame plus it is weather resistant. It came with several adapters and I even used it to charge my tablet one year, but it took several hours to charge to 100%. It also works on cloudy days but not very well, full sunny days are best.
  18. SCOTT's 90's

    Bulbs

    About 4watts depending upon the voltage at that point in time when measured ....
  19. Yes the optic cable is powered from your courtesy door light the one just below the arm rest with the dual colored red/white lens. Unfortunately if the cable has come loose from the back of the light housing I think you will have to remove the door panel, or you might be lucky and be able to reach it from the access hole once you remove the housing. But I think it is a tight fit meaning the cable is just long enough to reach the back of the housing. Good Luck!
  20. When you say it is idling between 900 and 500rpm is it idle hunting? Does the idle rise quickly to 900 and then quickly fall to 500, Or is it just a gradual movement?
  21. Is your Reatta parked outside in the cold if so this will also impact the battery, especially if it is old and weak. Either way I always keep my battery on a tender from Fall to Spring if I am not driving it within 5 days.
  22. The temperature valve door controller will have trouble over time -- I mean our cars are about 30 years old. If that is working as it should you might want to check the vacuum hoses that are underneath the controller they will crack or become unplugged. As 63viking said check out Ronnie's ROJ site under How-to-Guides and look at No Heat - Troubleshooting . Here is a link but not sure if it will take you to the exact one. http://www.reattaowner.com/roj/component/content/article/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&catid=95:heat-a-ac-system&id=116:no-heat-t
  23. Very good suggestion from 2seater... When I was having similar stalling trouble I got both of those and put them in the back of seat (Not in the stow away) so that I could grab them real quick and do the tests on the side of the road - If need be. I actually did have to do this one day when it stalled - This proved that I did not have an immediate issue with fuel pressure or spark.
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