22touring
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Posts posted by 22touring
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The first DB car arrives in Los Angeles in December, 1914:
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That time when Walter P. Chrysler bought Dodge Brothers Corporation.
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The oil pressure gauge on my car seems to be stuck at about 1 lb. after I re-installed it. I'm hoping it will go down to zero again at rest after I start the engine.
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Thanks, Doug.
Obviously the exterior paint is going to have to be a Work In Progress. I hope I'll be able to get it all nice and shiny someday.
I am a terrible painter. Sometimes I get pretty good results just by accident, but a lot of times I get really bad results. I'm afraid that much more practice and knowledge is going to be required before I become proficient.
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I got the '22 tourer pretty much back together, but I still need to paint and install the vacuum tank, horn and the tank/horn mounting bracket.
The vacuum tank linkage has both springs installed and its levers seem to click into overcenter just fine. Neither the float nor the tank leaks, but I wonder if I need to do anything to make sure the vacuum line and vent sealing pins are sealing properly?
So I guess when the vacuum tank is operating properly, you are supposed to get manifold vacuum at the fuel inlet port. I'm trying to figure out an easy way to test this with a vacuum gauge before going on a test drive. I guess I'll have to "T" the vacuum gauge into the line somehow.
I'm thinking of polishing the commutator in the horn motor with Brasso, then cleaning it up with lacquer thinner. Does that sound right? Of course I'll also lube up the motor shaft. Do you Brethren think I should make new paper gaskets for where the trumpet bolts to the horn body, or would that space the diaphragm out too far from the motor, so I should just put it back together with the old, torn gaskets?
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The lights are attached to the slotted horizontal bar which is in turn attached at its ends to the spare tire carrier ring.
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This is how the rear lights were mounted on my late '22 touring car with wood spoke wheels when I bought it, Al. I think it is more or less correct. I believe the light with the red and orange lenses was installed by a DB dealer in 1924, when brake lights were first required in California, and I think the "stop" light and the reflector were aftermarket.
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"Yes, bawl babies can whine that the parts are expensive."
I think there are other considerations besides "what the market will bear" as to the price of the item. If you are running an antique auto parts business, you are also concerned about the value of the business if you were to sell it. That is largely determined by its gross receipts. The value of the business upon its sale may also determine whether or not you are going to leave something of value to your heirs, or whether the business will cease to exist upon your death. IMHO you increase the gross receipts of a business more by charging moderate prices than by charging high ones. One pertinent example comes to mind: I think Frank Mitchell could have left a more valuable estate to his heirs if he had sold his parts at more reasonable prices, because he would have had higher gross receipts and the business would have become more saleable.
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I know a fellow who's a consultant on auto electrical systems for the major manufacturers, and who's a Mopar kind of guy but not DB, who knows how to have parts replicated and reproduced in Asia. We might want to think about taking up a collection for doing that for the 4-cylinder cars where ignition parts are NLA. It would be cheaper than buying them at these inflated prices, and they would be new. Whatsay, Dodge Brethren?
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Oh Minibago, the moderators on this board will slap your wrist, and maybe whack other parts of your anatomy, if you even mention any criticism of ridiculously sky-high asking prices for parts. You're going to get in major trouble if you have the audacity to say that! Oh no! Thought policemen MHinson and Peter Gariepy are going to rake you over the coals! It's been nice knowing you, though!
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Back when I first bought my '22 back in 1985, I met an old tire man who showed me how to grind down the tip of a giant screwdriver so it fits perfectly into the pocket on my split rim, and I've been very happy with how well it works. It makes the job so much easier and safer.
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If you're going to oil them, don't use linseed oil because it will greatly darken the wood. Buy some special clear furniture oil that furniture restorers use, which will leave the wood its natural color.
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Al, I think I might have some lug nuts for a '22 in my DB stash. Send me a message and I'll get back to you ASAP.
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You might want to check out this thread on the forum:
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I have one of George McMurtry's DB rear hub pullers, which I would be willing to loan to any of my Dodge Brethren if they should find it impossible to remove the hub otherwise.
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Mattml430, when you install the new felt rear axle seals, would you please explain how to do it and post pictures because I am not at all sure that I did it correctly on my '22 tourer. In fact, I'm pretty sure I did it incorrectly because I was totally clueless, and I would like to re-do it properly before I fill the differential with oil! Thanks very much.
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The "D" engine was the one with the distributor in front, driven by a chain rather than the old timing gears; the water pump, generator and manifolds were re-located and the oil pump was inside the crankcase. (The old 4-cylinder had received 5 main bearings with the production of the "C" engine starting on July 12, 1926.)
But was the "D" engine that was first introduced in the models 126 and 127 (116" wheelbase and single plate clutch) and manufactured for less than 3 months (January 2 to March 22, 1927) the same as the "D" engine that was used in the model 124 starting on March 22, 1927, which is referred to as the "4-point engine" because it mounted to the frame at 4 points? The 124 also had the new standard-shift transmission. The model 124 was only made for about 3 months, too, before they started making the 108" wheelbase models 128 and 129 ("Fast Four") for 13 months before they stopped making the old 4-cylinder engine. The 128 and 129 Fast Four engine had the distributor located in the middle of the cylinder head.
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I found a very good discussion of the subject in this thread on this Forum:
But I still don't understand about mounting the distributor at the front of the engine vs. on the top of it.
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Thanks, Doug! I didn't know that. I'll go to the DBC store site and buy it.
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I guess I have forgotten some of my DB 4-cylinder history.
I used to have an article from the DB Club News, which I think was written by the late Dick Perry, detailing all the changes made to the 4-cylinder engine from 1914 to 1928, but I can't find the article. I've also tried to search for the information on the 'net, but had no luck so far.
I certainly would appreciate it if someone could point me to a source that would state when DB switched from the "single unit" (combined starter-generator) to the "two-unit" (separate starter and generator) design; when did the carburetor and intake manifold move from the left to the right side of the engine; when did the distributor move to the front of the engine; and any other significant design changes to the 4-cylinder engine.
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The late auto historian Beverly Rae Kimes discussed this in her article on the DB 4-cylinder car in Automobile Quarterly for the first quarter of 1979: "Within 3 years after the Dillon, Read takeover, Dodge Brothers had floundered from 5th place in 1925 to thirteenth place in 1928...[.] but that May, the company couldn't meet its payroll. The bankers had left behind the Dodge Brothers philosophy of keeping close to Ford prices but offering substantially more car...[.] Dodge owners fell into a state of confusion. Dodge dealers began to wail at a sales policy which was not the policy they knew."
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Yes, MikeC5, I saw that video, too, and couldn't figure out why the intake was on the passenger side of the engine on a '24.
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The "regulator" that I hired to keep the cattle rustlers off my spread. He has a wild and crazy look in his eye, doesn't he?
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The vacuum tank linkage has both springs installed and its levers seem to click into overcenter just fine. Neither the float nor the tank leaks, but I wonder if I need to do anything to make sure the vacuum line and vent sealing pins are sealing properly?
So I guess when the vacuum tank is operating properly, you are supposed to get manifold vacuum at the fuel inlet port. I'm trying to figure out an easy way to test this with a vacuum gauge before going on a test drive. I guess I'll have to "T" the vacuum gauge into the line somehow.
Interesting Dodge Brothers Articles
in Dodge & Dodge Brothers
Posted
Here you go, Doug: