CCruz

That sounds like the confirmation I got from another local source, today, after I related the above info. I will be tied up for a few days before I can get back under the car but at least now I have HOPE!! Thank you!

Hmmm. I wondered if that might be the case as it appears to be attached to that larger flywheel housing in some way. This offers more insight instead of just the obvious bolts. Thanks. Will check this out and hope for the best.

In the past, I had rocked the car to disengage the Bendix gear from the flywheel which stuck during the starting process. One shop replaced the Bendix and another replaced the worn flywheel. As initially stated, the starter gear is loose and is not engaging the flywheel. The starter sounds OK as it makes a whirling sound but I know the starter gear/Bendix is shot. My issue is getting the starter assembly off and out of the car and I cannot figure out what is holding it solidly in place after removing the bolts I have removed.

Three total. I removed a larger one to the back of the starter area but I don't think it is not related. Yes, three close inspections for overlooking bolts has been done. What I would like to see is a schematic showing the attaching bolt placement. THAT would be most helpful! However, I am reasonably sure there are no others still in place.

"Easy fix" so I have been told. Maybe so, but the dang starter unit won't budge. My 1953 Ford /Crestline/Sunliner still has a flathead V8 and 6 volt system. A few years ago, a local company replaced the starter drive in it. Well, it shot craps again and I am attempting to REMOVE the starter. I first removed the flywheel cover to check it and the drive was not engaged and is LOOSE and free. (Important point) Then I unscrewed several bolts holding the starter and the electrical. The starter is simply will not budge and acts as if it is still bolted to the frame. Many checks later, I do not see any additional bolts holding it. The only "give" is barely moving the flywheel housing. What the heck?! I will admit I have not previously removed a starter but the repair shop that previously replaced the starter drive has and even replaced the bolts with new ones. Again, the starter drive is NOT hanging up within the starter. Even if it did, the starter should "give" some. That is not the problem. I am at a loss as to what other factors are preventing me from dropping it. If you have removed such a starter, I would appreciate insight into what I might have missed.

I am not familiar with that Automotive Information Clearinghouse book. Not sure if I can find a copy but I will try. Keiser31, I am looking for data on my '53 Ford Crestline Sunliner convertible.

Some years ago I recall being able to find a list of specific production numbers for a model and a year. I also recall seeing a list of known surviving models. I can't seem to find such a list, now, on the Internet. Would appreciate any recommendations on such a source.

YOU GUYS ARE GOOD! I had used some penetrating oil on the ends and added again the next day. Then, as one recommended, I tightened just slightly and it backed out of the fuel pump with ease! Now to work on the more difficult part--the metal gas line. Will get longer tools for that adventure so I can have more control and torque. Getting there!

Correct. I want to remove the old fittings which had been adapted by adding the replacement hose. Right now I am adding penetrating oil, again, to the fittings and am hoping more will help. I like the idea of cutting off the hose and getting a socket wrench in there but IF either nut doesn't budge....I'm screwed to still start and drive. I am not as concerned with the line going into the fuel pump as I am with the other end--the gas line. I do not want to twist that one!

Some interesting solutions that I have not previously considered. Will give them a try and hope for the best outcome.

Yes, I tried penetrating oil. Both parts would not budge. Maybe more and longer. The wrenches I have are not long and I was unable to get the brass end to budge. That is why I conjectured they fused together, somehow, being two different metals that have been connected for quite a while. Will add more penetrating oil and do so for a longer time.

Here is the correct part whose diameter is smaller than the replacement hose.

Here is a photo of what was used as a replacement. One end of the cut hose line is in the fuel pump and you cannot see the other end which is connected to the metal fuel line, which is the one I fear kinking. To me, the replacement hose is too large in dia. compared to the original.

A few years ago I asked some questions here regarding my '53 Ford flathead V8 which was having a starting problem. The mechanic who had my car for nearly a month was unable to figure out the issue and thanks to some here, the problem was identified correctly as air leaking into the line. Sure enough, the gas line connection from the fuel pump was cracked. The mechanic, without having the correct connection, cut out the rubber portion and attacked a rubber replacement hose with clamps. The car starts and runs but I believe it now takes more effort. Regardless, I ordered the correct replacement line which is about six inches long and attaches with nuts on both ends. I tried to loosen the old parts and I was having no luck, fearing the two different metals somehow fused. I have been reluctant to really torque the nut because if I am unable to keep the fuel line stable, I will kink it. I cannot heat it to loosen it because it is a gas line. Other than taking it to a mechanic who may have better tools than me, what other solutions might I try before resorting to that?

Wow. Thanks, guys. Great info. Will be digging in to check. One thing for sure, I did not know there was a relay involved.

The horn on my '53 Ford has not worked for some time and I am at a loss as to where to find the problem. I have removed the steering wheel and found the button but it does not make a sound when depressed. I have bypassed the steering ring to make the horn sound so I know it is not the horns themselves. Is there a fuse somewhere? What would be your recommendations to check, first?

I took the car to a cruise night, last night, and had the regular hub caps on it. Another car guy came by and noticed the paint missing where the full wheel covers had been. Yes, it is very obvious the full wheel covers have removed the paint where they grab and now the contact is metal to metal. Yes, I remember those tabs on some of the wheels. None on mine. Sounds like the silicone will be the best alternative for now. We'll see what happens.

This is what happens when you park too close to the new Saturn Piranha.

The dog dish style caps fit a center rim area whereas the full wheel cover extends beyond that and does not attach in the same location. By the way, both wheel covers and hubcaps are original Ford era products. Not reproduction. I have noticed all of the wheel covers creep and push against the valve stems. Sometimes, after driving, I have had to secure the wheel covers, again, because they were starting to lift from the rims. Generally this is more common with the front tires. Had not thought of using silicone to aid in the tack adhesion. What I would like to avoid is using the dog dish caps for most travel and then replacing them with the full wheel covers for show. Generally easy enough to do except I also have to remove the fender skirts.

Yes, I have bias ply tires on this car. The dog dish style hub caps snap on in the center section whereas the full wheel covers grab around the outside along the valve stem areas. The creeping has pushed on all of the valve stems and sometimes I wonder if enough pressure had creeped onto the stem, that might be a possibility as to why the cap flies off. Never thought of the steel valve stems as a limiting factor.

I have a set of full wheel hubcaps for my '53 Ford and have always had problems with creeping. One cap, in particular, will eventually fly off and it usually happens at a speed of 40 or higher or on a turn. The advice I keep getting is to bend back the rim keepers, more. Done that every time, sometimes to the point it will barely snap on, and it still flies off. I moved the cap to another tire and it will do the same thing. I cannot see any difference in this cap. Decided to put the dogdish style back on and no problems. However, the places where the full wheel covers grabbed the rim have taken off the paint and now that is exposed. I like the look of the full wheel covers but I tire of wondering if one will fly off and then chasing it after it does. Would appreciate hearing from those who have such wheel covers and what you do to keep them on and to prevent or minimize the creeping.

Another possibility for your consideration--because this sounds quite a bit like the recent issues I had with my '53 flathead. After many recommendations and replacement of the usual suspects, the actual culprit was the short fuel line to the fuel pump. It was sucking air. It was a far less inexpensive replacement than all of the other suggestions which involved new fuel pump, carb restoration, coil, etc. Worth looking at.

It has been over a month and I can happily report the cars starts fine. This past week I started it after about a week of sitting and it didn't take much to get her going again. So, THAT issue seems to have been solved. Now....I will probably return the system back to its original electrical polarity. The mechanic reversed it, back in July.

Finally! The car is back from the shop. Yes, it was there for a long time. So far, she is starting fine. So far. So, here is what was finally done: The mechanic replaced, under warranty, the new fuel pump. That did not solve the problem and I was told they were thinking something electrical. The fuel line had good pressure but as many of us suspected, the rubber hose from the fuel line to the fuel pump was leaking air! This line was replaced. They also found some loose wires on the starter switch. Contact was intermittent because the nuts hold the wires on the starter switch were somewhat loose. I will run the car for a while and see if any of the old issues pop up. Will report back!

I am not in favor of the 12V system because I never had previous issues in starting the car. Something now, has changed, and I am confident it may be related to fuel delivery so they are probably going to change the fuel line and check the tank sock. Do that first. Check the push rod for wear. THEN consider the electric fuel pump. I am trying to keep this car as original as possible and right now I, too, do not see any advantage to a 12V system.