[1925 Buick Tourer 25-25 Canopy]

Charles, 

    Do you have a photo of what is on your car so that we know what pieces you are missing.  

[Marvel updraft carburettor, 1928 Buick]

Craig, 

   In the link that I posted, you will find the people that make the venturi blocks.  Not a normal carburetor repair part.   This will allow the air valve to sit against the inner wall of the carburetor.  I mention this because your photo shows the big air valve screw adjusted out too far and compensating for the poor venturi block.  It should essentially be flush with the end of the indexing tab.  But don't just screw it in until the block is replaced, otherwise that will put excess pressures on the spring.  

 There are also notes on the blanking plates - making them or have Olsons Gaskets make them.  You can find small sheets of copper on Ebay.  Easy to cut with tin snips.  Put the copper between 2 pieces of wood while drilling to prevent the drill from grabbing the thin sheetmetal, and go up in drill size and not a large hole all at once.     Hugh  

 

[Marvel updraft carburettor, 1928 Buick]

Here is an article to take you thru rebuilding and checking the carburetor and the heating system.   Gaskets are 1/64 paper.  Make yourself or Olsons Gaskets may have them.  

https://forums.aaca.org/topic/372573-1920s-buick-marvel-carburetor-rebuilding/#comment-2311177

 

Hugh

[No Interior, No problem - 1920's Buick missing interior]

Thank you for the kind words.  I have now finished making and installing all of the hidem.  I have put my scissors away.  So now I have been able to get the Buick out into the sunlight to take some photos.   I do not have the top rests and top boot for the car, but the top can be lowered for photographs.  It makes a pretty wedding day car.      Hugh

 

 

[1926 Buick not making vacuum]

The first 3 pages are the notes from when my vacuum tank quit working and left me stranded.  Ran great for several months.  Last 5 pages are the process I went thru when I rebuilt it.  The best gasket to use on the Banjo vacuum bolt are the rubber style inside of the metal ring that Brian Heil found.     Hugh

 

 

 

[1927 Standard 6 27-25 Heat Riser Bore Diameter]

Frank, 

Glad that you are making good progress and that the Buick is running better.      

Bob's Automobilia has replacement choke springs.  I bought two in case I messed one up, but I have been able to replace this spring without taking the lever off the choke shaft.    Hugh

I am also surprised to see the heat riser tube OD the same for Master or Standard in 1925.  

 

Hugh

[No Interior, No problem - 1920's Buick missing interior]

So needing to make a few adjustments to the interior before I can hide all the tack heads.  At the door latches, I followed the panels that were on the car, but they were not done right as the latch showed.  I did not like the look of the black latch against the beige interior.  I decided to add a piece of wood into each latch post to try to hide the door latch when the door is closed.   I am still leaving a small gap for the trim.  I also added carpeting to the rear seat floor and I removed the large rubber mat.  I was able to install the foot rest as well.  

Then I had to make "Hidem", as it is not available in this color.  So Mark Kikta provided the details and I purchased a leather skive to thin the leather.  

Hugh’s notes for making ¾” wide hidem:

-        Cut leather to 2 ½” wide strips.

-        Seams will be done on a 45 degree bias.

-        Leather skived to .035”

-        Pen mark the leather on the back side ¾” from each side.

-        Use ¼” basting tape.  Stick this on the outside of each pen line.

-        Fold the ¾” edge over 3/32” welting cord.  Make the leather edge touch the pen line.

-        Create a 1/8” leather flat spot with the welting in the outside fold.

-               Repeat for the opposite side

-        Fold the welting to the middle on both sides.

-        Use the 5/16” presser foot and stitch each side.

So one side of the rear seat is now finished.  I have to make a lot of Hidem to cover the front seat and the rest of the rear seat.  That is my job tomorrow.    Hugh

 

 

 

[1927 Standard 6 27-25 Heat Riser Bore Diameter]

Your heat riser tube may not be your only problem.  There are a lot of areas to address if you want to put your carburation in good order and to bypass all of the heat addition components that are no longer needed and are negatives when running modern fuels.    Hugh   

 

https://forums.aaca.org/topic/372573-1920s-buick-marvel-carburetor-rebuilding/#comment-2311177

 

 

[23-35 v 22-35]

Lou,   The multi disc clutch components (friction discs and metal plates) interchange to the very early cars and thru 1925.  The Larger 6 cylinder cars had an extra set of friction and metal plate to handle the incresed torque.  Hugh   

 

[Wire wheels for 1925 master]

Finally getting to installing the rear Buffalo hub as I needed several parts.  I did use blue lock tight on the 1/2-20 countersunk screw that holds the parking brake band as a preventative measure.  Someone really beat on the inside of this wheel hub and I don't really know why.  Damage all appears to be on the outer hub section.  Hammering got into the mating flange and I was just barely able to clean it up with my whizzer and not have to remove the axle.  I protected the internals from getting grinding bits into the hub.      

I did replace the felt seal with a double lip spring seal.  The seal should have really been installed in the opposite direction, but there would be no way to ever remove it, so I installed it where it could be removed.  It did require 2 wraps of electrical tape, and I also used RTV sealant to hold it.  The 1/64 face gasket was missing as well so I made these.  I had to use a heavy gasket sealer bead due to the heavy beating that the hub had on the mating face.  I did clean the bearing and Mark Kikta provided the replacement special tab washer.  

So the odd thing with these Buffalo wheels - the outer bearing race is held in the drive hub.  On a wood spoke, the outer bearing race is held in the spoke wheel hub, and the drive hub is just a flange.     

Threads on the 6 studs were OK but marginal so I was careful with tightening to prevent stripping one.   

So after assembling everything, on a Buffalo wheel car, the brake band can be installed after the drum is on, if installed in the proper order.  Installing the two 5/16 bolts first.  You can't do this with a wood spoke wheel, and it would still be easier if the band is installed prior to installing the drum.       

This photo shows the crushed brake release spring and the replacement spring stock that I am using.  Buick part number 169131.  For both Standard and Master!  This Hillman spring is a good match and just needs to be cut to length.  Bought at the local Ace Hardware store.  Now I am on to fixing the brakes on this car as it has a lot of rusty clevis pins and the brakes are low and the pedal does not return properly.

Hugh        

 

 

[oldsmobile 1926 Distributor prblem]

DFOXY, 

    Photos of what you have would help.  1926 Oldsmobiles are extremely rare.  I am only under the assumption that many parts are similar to what Buick was using.  In 1926, Buick was using a pot metal distributor.  The potmetal grew over time.  This may explain why the distributor was not held in place.  Long term, people with 1926 Delco distributors replace them with 1930 Buick series 40 distributors.  Model 640 Delco distributors. 

      As Stude light says, find compression on number 1 cylinder, then rotate until you have the TDC mark in the timing inspection window.  On a Buick, TDC is the 1-6 line.  Then you can set the distributor location based on when the points just open.  Attached are instructions on setting the timing statically, and then using a timing light.     Hugh          

 

[Wanted: 1927 Buick in-tank fuel gauge/float assy]

Tom, 

    Fuel sending unit parts are very hard to find.  Read thru this posting regarding restoring or building a fuel sending unit.  They are not that difficult to build.  1925 thru 1927 Standard would be the same.  The two drawings will show you how to make the parts to build your own fuel gauge for a Buick Standard.  The link will explain where to get the float material and other parts.  Myers Early Dodge also sells the parts for a 2" fuel gauge.  Note that the Buick nickeled cap is a different thread pitch than Dodge uses, but Myers made a run of these for us.  Hugh    

 

 

[No Interior, No problem - 1920's Buick missing interior]

      Emtee, 

Thank you.  And I am not done yet.  I still have some leather panels to go.  These are photos of the left and right cowl kick panels.  I do not have any "matching vinyl", so this is all done in leather.  For sewing, you always need a patern.  I used some poster board to make a pattern of the kick panel area.  The slot in the floorboard metal had to be opened up a little because the leather is a little thicker as this panel board was originally covered vinyl.  After making the template I cut out the panel board and fit it by itself.  Then I took a little off the size for the leather.  I stitched one side.  Then I sprayed contact adhesive on the panel and the leather and worked the middle to the edges and stuck them together.  Then I sewed all the edges.  Decorative tacks secure the panel at the door edge as the other sides have grooves.  These cowl panels are tricky as it also extends up and under the dashboard sheetmetal.  The aftermarket water temperature gauge did not make the job easier.  

These are 

I had another problem in the rear seat area.  This part of the car was owner hand built and not as Buick constructed it.  It showed too much wood.  So I made 1 1/2 x 3/4" L shaped panels to fill the spot on each side of the seat.  Actually both were made separately as the left and right  were not of the same dimensions.  Installing the securement nails was difficult because no place to swing a hammer, so I had to pry against the heads and hope the nail did not bend in the process.  

I also went back thru and added more cotton to the rear seat sides to minimize the wrinkles.  I also added a leather heel section to the seat riser as this was the last piece of vinyl on the car.  I left the leather long on the floor as that will make a more finished base for the carpet.  

I will post again after I cover the tack heads.      Hugh

 

 

[1924 4 Cylinder Buick Oldham coupling wanted]

Layden, 

   Excellent comment.  I am not entirely convinced that this part is case hardened, or that hardening is even necessary.  That was heresay from another member.  I agree with your comment.  I have made these couplings from mild steel and aluminum, installed them with grease and not looked back.  Aluminum is a good choice too.  The better aligned the mating parts are, the less work this part does and the less wear is incurred.  The reason for the accuracy of the part is for reasons of keeping the engine ignition timing, but this is an easier part to make anew than to locate.  I would not waste my time looking for one.  If you find one - great.  I would go to a local machine shop and get an estimate for the part in aluminum or mild steel.  You could heat it up and quench it if that made you feel better.       Hugh 

[Wire wheels for 1925 master]

Adding a drawing of most of the inner hub and a photo with the felt seal removed.  These are the dimensions that I could get without removing the hub from the drum.  Dimensions verified as the same rear axle seals as Kevin ordered, so I will be doing the same.      Hugh

[1924 4 Cylinder Buick Oldham coupling wanted]

   Jeff,

     Drawings for reference.  Drawing appears to be missing the mill slot in the opposite direction, but otherwise accurate.     Hugh

 

[1927 Buick standard 27 order of operations help please]

On these Buick engines, timing marks are or I should say will be meshed but are not together when the engine is on TDC.  There are several threads on the Buick Pre War forum regarding timing marks.  

 

 

 

[1927 Buick standard 27 order of operations help please]

Jim, 

    After setting the engine on #1 TDC and verifying the engine marks, I used the tip of a drill to mark the tooth on the back side of the camshaft gear that aligns with the generator gear mark.  If I have to pull the generator for any reason, I can line the marks back up and I do not have to reset or check the ignition timing.   It saves some time and effort.  All the factory marks were set up working from the front of the engine.  Timing notes are from the 1925 Buick Standard manual.     Hugh    

 

  

['27 Master Six Model 40- Pinstripping Specs]

Thomas,  I was hoping to make it to Hershey this year, doubtful if I will make it to Upstate New York though.  Attached are notes on the pinstriping method that I use and I have good luck with this.    Hugh

 

      

 

 

[Wire wheels for 1925 master]

Kevin, 

    Thank you for the seal information.  I will verify if it is correct for the hub before I order it.  

 

Larry, 

    I will add the 1/64 gasket paper as I feel it should be there as well. 

 

So two fixes so far this evening.  Photo set one is the rear seal overflow tube.  The hole and cavity is completely plugged.  I was able to scrape all this thickened oil and road dirt out. 

Photo set 2 is the inner brake band support block.  I was able to get the band to rest on the square block on both ends.  The major problem actually is that the lower band end sits proud of the support block.  I think the previous owner did tighten the counter sunk screw, and that made the end of the band guide stick out.  This thin band guide was bent as it is mostly a big hole in the middle of steel plate.  I think he thought it was tight, but after appling the brake, the tension was now off of the screw and the screw just kept backing out over time.  My fix is to install an internal star lock washer under the plate.  This will give the added clearance to allow the brake band to move and also apply pressure on the bolt to prevent it from backing out.  I am trying to decide if I will blue lock tight it as well, but I feel the main issue is resolved.       Hugh

    

 

 

[Wire wheels for 1925 master]

Larry, 

     Thank you for following up and providing the verification that I needed.  Now the problem was how do I get the hub off without damaging the drum.  Like an M&M, it's hard on the outside and soft in the middle.  There is also only one place around the drum that has any support.   This is at the brake band anchor.  You can not use screwdrivers between the 2 piece hub flanges, but the right crow bar will span the gap to get to the outer edge of the drum.  Then pressure can only be applied against the brake band anchor location.  One spot on the diameter of the drum.  So I gave the pry bar a wiggle, and then rotated the drum 180 degrees, and gave it another wiggle.  Multiple passes and it started to separate. 

So the first photo is the important one as it shows the anchor at the bottom of the drum, and the crow bar used.  The wheel hub is the same design as the drive hub on a Master.   

   

The back side of the wheel hub is cut to fit the ball bearing outer dimension.  It also has a recess to aligh the 2 piece hub inner half.  Note all the marks inside the wheel hub (photo below).  These are not my marks.  Someone else has been in here, and those look like hammer marks.  All I have done is pried on the flange.  Thinking that there should also be a gasket here, so thoughts on this?  

 

Now to make Bob Pilkies day, The first good photos of the inner hub. I bent back the locking tabs on the 2 1/2" nut.  I used a pipe wrench and a cheater to remove the nut.  Larry tells me that this nut size is on the Master hubcap wrench which I no longer have because I sold it not having a need for it since I own a Standard.  Upon inspection, the star washer was useless as it did not have the inside tab that holds it in place.

I did not need a puller as the 1310 bearing and then the drum came off without difficulty.  Photo below shows the felt seal.  I really want to go back with a lip seal so if anyone has any recommendations? 

Photo of inside the drum with the oil shedder.  Not sure if this is different than the shedder used on all the other Masters.  Bolts are drilled and cotterpinned in place.     

Now to the brake drag issue, and I hope this is the entire problem, and it is not a drum run out issue.   The large countersunk screw at the base of the parking brake ends was backed out 7 turns.  The metal end of the band guide had rotated between the brake inner band and the drum.  So the end is kind of worn, and the plate is a little bent.  This is a countersunk screw, so perhaps blue locktite is in order when I put this back together.  If there is supposed to be a lock washer in this, please let me know.    

The other interesting item is that the parking band is not pulling flat against the square stop when the parking brake is released.  There are 3 guides around and inside the band on the backing plate.  The top guide (second photo below) looks like something inside the drum pushed the guide up on the front side.  The other two guides follow the band curvature exactly.  I will correct this guide, but I don't think it will close the gap at the anchor point, but maybe it will?  That's about a 3/16 to 1/4" gap at the anchor point.  I also noticed that on another guide, two of the brake rivets are not letting the band seat flat on the guide, so I may need to hammer on the rivet a little more.  

So I have my work cut out putting this all in order and back together.  I need to decide if I should go into the opposite side as well as I feel certain I will find gremlins waiting. 

Thank you my Buick friends for helping me with this.  I'd like to say the shop manual was a big help, but no.     Hugh    

  

 

   

 

 

[Wire wheels for 1925 master]

This is a 14" Master.  The drum is slid back flush against the backing plate.  This leaves a 1/4" gap between the 2 hubs.  It does not want to let go of the wheel hub.  screwdriver prying will damage the brake drum.  I believe it is stuck or something is holding it in this outer bearing area outside of the drum.  Rod, have you been able to separate the hub that is showing on your trailer?      Thank you,   Hugh  

[Wire wheels for 1925 master]

 

Yes,  The Buick Master is a full floating axle.  The hub and the axle SHOULD be able to stay together and pull straight off once the 6 nuts are removed.  They are not sliding off.  The "rear hub mounting (photo above)" appears attached to the brake drum some how.  The rear drum is warped - likely from someone trying to pry against it to separate the 2 parts.  So not sure what to pry against or pull against to get the two hubs to separate.  The gap between the 2 hub pieces is the "rear hub mounting" and the drum moving towards the backing plate.  I don't really want to use a slide hammer on the wheel hub and damage the wheel bearings.  Looking for advice from anyone who has separated these 2 parts.   Thank you,          Hugh

 

[No Interior, No problem - 1920's Buick missing interior]

The owner has a 1926 Buick "components bill of sale" that is notorized and registered by the Texas DMV.  Problem is, it does not say if it is for the body, motor, or chassis.  The only thing it could be for is the body, but it looks like the doors are 1925 Standard.  My old JC Whitney door panels that I used for patterns fit pretty close except the door latches were in slightly different places (shifted up or down) of the factory spots.     

 

Glad that I was not given alligator skins to work with.  

 

More of the same as I moved on to installing the front door panels.  Then I was able to go thru the rear seat base.  Looks like Model A to me.  I added a horsehair pad to the seat base, then covered it in Jute.  Finally starting on the last tuck and roll assembly.  Interesting sewing the seat side leather and the piping to the seat cover.  Sewing thru 4 layers of leather and sometimes more.  Made a few mistakes that I had to pull out the stitching and redo, but they were just on the seat corners and not too difficult to fix.   On the ping pong table is the finished seat bottom and the old vinly seat covering behind it.   It does look like a nice place to take a nap.  

Hugh.   

 

 

 

 

[Wire wheels for 1925 master]

Larry, 

    Thank you for the pictures of the 2 rear wheel types on the Master.  I do not have this "drive flange" set up as in the first picture where the axle typically stays with the drive flange during normal maintenance and I don't know when if ever there would be a need to remove the drive flange from the tapered shaft.

I believe in my case, I need to remove the nut that is under the hub cap.  It is a 1 13/16" nut.  I hope to be able to use a 46mm socket on it.  I will also need to use a puller to remove this outermost hub from the axle.  Funny that they call this the inner hub and inner hub puller, but it looks like the outer hub to me.  

I don't see any other way on these Buffalo style wheels but to separate the axle from the drive flange.   

They show a screw on flange puller (inner hub puller) in the Buffalo parts which screws onto the wheel lock threads, but I am hoping to accomplish the same using an 8" Jaw puller.

 

As for the "Rear Hub mountings" , I think this is the other half of the 2 piece hub that is showing outside the brake drum.    

Hugh