GaryP65

Wow Bob. In looking at the rack I would have never known that the top screws off. I admit I thought it wierd there was a slot but who knew! So I took it apart and sure enough there was the washer. I promptly solder the pin to the washer and will install it tonight. Thanks for all the help guys. I'll let you know how it goes.

How did I know you were gonna be the first to answer?! And the best part..... you're gonna have the right answer.

So I'm having trouble starting the beast. It used to run OK but now I can't get it to start at all. I went thru everything and after a little gas directly into the cylinders, it light up for a second so it looks like fuel is not making its way to the engine. The reason for the post title is that I think (although not 100% sure) the pin is sticking in the metering valve. Is it suppose to be attached to the rack? The valve moves freely and yes the vacuum tank has been serviced so I know its not that.

This is great. Thank you. Now I just need to find them. Perhaps in Hershey.

Can someone tell me where I can get the rods and control swivels? I have the pieces for the timing advance but need the throttle. At the swap meet today in Budd Lake, someone wanted to charge me $30 per rod but not only did I think that was too much, I'm not even sure it was the correct one. I'm thinking of buying the swivels from Restoration Supply and threading/bending rods to match but would rather have originals. It's a little bit of work unless someone knows where I can get these at a decent price or if someone has a shop drawing. OR Would someone mind taking a photo and perhaps measuring the total rod length and bend locations?

IT IS!! Even with all the complaining, it actually is!

10amp. I got it back on and also notice that the chain was very loose so I adjusted that. First push on the foot switch and it turned over . I did notice that the switch needed a quick and decisive push to make it work but now I'm not getting spark to the plugs. I have power to the coil so it might be the condenser.

I appreciate the offer. Thank you. I found a shop near me that and spoke to a old timer that seemed to know about these units. The commutator was black in some spots so he suspected a problem. He cleaned it up and tested it and says it works well with no sparks or arcing and works well on both the starting side and the charging side so now I'm lose at what it could be!!

So what kind of repairs can I do to this or should I just get an exchange from Myers?

Got nuthin!

I am not worried about removal, just want to make sure that its nessecary to do so. For the electrically challanged, you're saying hook the cable to the negative battery terminal to the post on the SG (I have a positive ground system)? Am I hooking the other to the ground? Electric is foreign to me. Testing is even worse!!

I have this from the book of information See photo.... So I tried one more time to jump the terminals on the foot switch and it was quiet in the garage (I love that). Once I held it there, I heard a faint 'sizzle' coming from the SG!. Should I try testing as as per the mechanics manual? And should I do it while out of the car or not? AND/IF I do, is there power flowing thru the unit? Gwary's scared!

Once I noticed that the switch wasn't doing it, I tried the hand crank and other than the normal compression it seemed fine. I checked out the brushes some time ago and other than a broken spring which I fixed, all looked good.

Yes wiseguy!

Thanks for the advise Mike. So I tried both. The meter shows no reading and jumping had no results (sparks but that's it). Also tried jumping the big terminals on the switch Think my SG is shot?

I'm challenged when it come to electric. So you're saying put my meter on the big terminals on the starter switch?

Unit is 12 volt.

Anyone have info on testing/repairing this unit? For some reason, after RR of my carb, the sucker wont start. It cranks very slowly. I have full battery power.

So, you're saying that if I plumb it directly to the carb and it runs fine then it's the tank? And if not its the carb?

Someone should tell him the boys are watching. Make him an honest man. Like we did in Brooklyn in the 70's.

Yeah, that's what I was thinking. I need to download that printing on the carb.

Now that I think about it, I did that a long time ago and it flooded the carb so I put a new float in the carb. Once it sucked it out of the can, it poured out of everywhere. That was before I tore the vacuum apart. Also, like I pointed out previous, I used a clear tube and the vacuum was pulling gas from the tank. .

I can but why?

The flapper was in good working order moving freely. It will only start with the choke all the way in. Pulling out will shut it off. At least that was the case when it was getting fuel from the gas can.

Looks like it's coming out of the air inlet The action of the tank is working and the float is good. Same for the carb float. What I don't understand is that it ran perfectly with a gas can attached to the vacuum.