GaryP65

No! Checked everything on the electric side and all seems good. I got some ether and I'll try to start it this weekend. I'm hoping it's not the carb.

Looking for a back seat. Let me know if one is available.

I've never taken a plug apart. Isn't the inside smooth? I've seen youtube videos where everyone is brazing or using some sort of permanent bond. What are you threading into?

Unfortunately, I don't have anything to weld with. Not a fan of the rubber tip piece. I feel like it will pop off once I have pressure on it and I live too far for my friends to help. I'm in NJ they are in Brooklyn.

I need adapters for my compression tester. Anyone know the size needed? I don't remember if the manual says the range it's supposed to be in. I had already set the timing as per the manual so I'm confident it's at least good enough the run reasonable well. It's been too many years. I have forgotten so much.

I have no idea. It was found in a barn in upstate NY. It has 60k miles on it. I do not believe it has run in years. Got spark to the plugs. My buddy is good. We had 60's/70's muscle together. I had a few cars, he had an 12 sec street 1971 SS Chevelle. And that was after he took of the blower.

Ok fellow DB'ers, Since I'm not the greatest when I comes to electrical, I had a buddy of mine help me out who is. Turns out all is good on the electric front. I get spark to the points, original coil is good. Car cranks nicely. My foot switch is working. So if I got power, all I need is fuel... Correct? After priming the vacuum tank, I see gas flowing up the tube from my gas can to the tank when I crank. I see gas in the line to the carb. There is NO gas in the upper vacuum line which is good. I'm still getting gas pouring out of the air tube and I'm not cranking too excessively. Maybe but not really

So I thought I'd put it to the test. I almost passed an auto parts store, so I picked up one and test it out. No spark. Could be something else up the line. Thoughts?

This is a 'was just wondering'question. I have seen photos of aftermarket coils used instead of OEM. Is there a certain unit I can use? Do I have to follow a certain specs? I'm just asking incase I want to get a backup for a 1925 12v positive ground Sedan.

I have tried to by pass the foot switch when I thought it was shot (its not, because it works when I step on it). Just not sure how strong it is. I hooked up jumper cables straight from the battery and it cranked but I did not check the spark. I think I'll check that one out. How did this thread go from Carbs to Electric? Please, no comment from you Ray!

Funny Ray!

Here's the run down... Fixed the 3rd brush spring, changed the cable to foot switch, engine cranks fast, vacuum tank is in great shape (float works, new gaskets, interior guts are good and working, new carb gasket, new oil pan gaskets, new oil pump gaskets, used clear fuel tubes from gas can (won't use fuel tank until it starts - THEN will clean tank), clear lines go to vacuum to carb. No gas is getting to carb from intake tube! I see gas get sucked up from can to vacuum tank (I prime first). I see gas from vacuum to carb. I have a mechanics manual, book of information and any other literature available for this car. I've 'adjusted' the timing as the book describes and confident it is good. I have alway suspected it was electrical so I checked for spark (was never confident my coil was good). In the beginning I was not getting spark then one day I did, don't know why but one time IT STARTED. After that nothing. Checked for spark again and NOTHING. don't know why!. I'm thinking it's of getting ANY coil to hook up to test it put. I have new plugs in. New wires but never attached them but did check the old ones for continuity. It's not the patient, it's the doctor! Thoughts?

Thanks Mike. I got it all apart and notice the spring broke at the other end which hooks on to the bracket. Since I don't ha e a new spring, I heated up the end and bent a new hook. Since it was only a small piece, the tension is similar to the others. Nothing looked out of the ordinary (what little knowledge I have). Everything is back together and working. Not sure if it will charge because it not on the road but it cranks! Thinking the foot switch is going thou. Thanks to all for their help in getting this novice up to speed. After this fiasco, I think I can figure out anything now. That's not to say this thread is dead...

How do I check the metering valve and r & p?

Mine has them too but that's a viable cause. Funny, after my last post, it came to me. I'll check it out tonight. With the wifes permission.......

Yeah. Nice to have a working starter. I think my switch is going thou. I adjusted the timing and it started last week for a couple of seconds. I get good spark too. What I don't get is... I get good spark, I'm getting fuel (aforementioned flooding) and it cranks. So why won't it start?

Still having trouble getting it to start but noticed that after cranking (I confess, sometimes too much cranking), gas is pouring from the tube that leads to the block. Is this just from too much cranking or is there another cause? Patient is a 1925 12v positive ground Sedan.

So what's the procedure for replacing the brush spring?

I saw, very nice collection. That's for the link!

Hey, I seemed to have missed a lot of response just using my phone. Now that I'm on my computer, I see some good stuff!. Maybe I'll ask the wife to hold the brush down! cahartley, I clicked your link and it tells me the page no longer exist but a site with a 59 chevy.

I did what platt said above. I hooked a test light to the terminal on the S/G and ground the other end to the frame, hit the foot switch and it lite up so that should mean that the switch is good, correct?

I will. So negative on battery to terminal with cable, positive connected to ground (frame of car)? It should spin?

Yes. It has no tension

Yep. Spins with the crank handle. Other springs have good tension.

Mike, nice work. Very visual. My issue now is, how do I get it to work? Now that I pulled the collar off and found the useless spring (noted on another thread), is that my sole fix? I have a mechanics manual. If I do the tests described and depending on the results, where do I go from here? See attached photo