Buickborn

Not to re-hash last week's topic about oil fillers . . . but the "puke green" mill is apparently not even a '54. '54 oil fill (like '53)was via a tube attached to the valley cover.

Well, of course. After all, it's hard to get folks to pony up for the top dog when a lesser one comes so close to it.

Well, Sir, I'm glad you think so. I was wondering if maybe that "philosophizing" was gonna get me kicked out of this "For Sale" thread!

Oh, that's right -- '55 Supers had the 4v carb, too . . . Just an example of what was clearly the beginning of GM's long downward spiral by virtue of blurring its previously distinct make/model differentiations. 1955 Brought us Chevys and Pontiacs as impressive and handsome as Buicks and Cadillacs, with equivalent engines . . . the firrst of many subsequent lower-priced cars that could outperform the more expensive makes . . . and, among other muddlings, mid-level Buicks with 4 portholes and 4 barrel carbs just like the Roadmasters . . . What were they thinking of?

Engine appears to be a '53 or '54, judging by oil filler attached to valley cover. Starting in '55, oil fill was via right-side rocker cover.

A few questions . . . does anyone know whether all series of '29s used the same spec differential gears, even if of different ratios? Would such '29 gears interchange into '30 models (like my 44-series roadster) or even later? Assuming some cross-year interchangeability, would there be any interest out there in having a run of long-legged versions of these gears produced? Given a large enough run, the cost might be quite reasonable, judging by my experience a few years ago: a run of only four sets of '34/'35 series 40 3:55 gears resulted in a bill of about $1200.00 per set -- would have billed out at much less than that with more participation.

Concerning my request for oil pan removal ideas, I'm happy to be able to say, "Cancel that." The solution to the problem was to push the hanging front of the oil pan back into position, pull the inspection plate downward against the heavy drag of its felt spacer, and unscrew two remaining pan bolts uncovered by the removal of the plate. That appears to have been the clean part of the task at hand -- at least compared with cleaning out the scary mess I've found in that oil pan (to be expected, I suppose, in an engine that hasn't been run in forty years . . . )

Second post since last night . . . this time, I'm having problems in trying to remove the oil pan from my '30 44 roadster. All bolts are out; the pan is hanging down a little in front, and I can wiggle it side to side, but I cannot seem to free the rear end from the crankcase. Just below the rear edge of the pan, there is an inspection plate in the front of the flywheel housing, attached with four bolts, which I have removed. But neither the plate nor the rear of the pan will free up, and I can't see what's holding either one in place. ????? Thanks! ~ Charlie Manes

Well, guys, my '30 series 44 roadster has me scratching my head again. This time, after adjusting backlash out of the steering gear, I've noticed (with the front end of the car jacked up) that the "high spot" seems to correspond with a front wheel angle considerably to the left. That is, starting with the wheels straight ahead, I have to turn the steering wheel more than 180 degrees to the left in order to begin encountering what appears to be the high spot. Although I'm familiar with high-spot shifts resulting from lash adjustments, this strikes me as extreme -- and far beyond anything for which there would be enough travel in the relay rod adjusters to compensate. In this connection, I'm also wondering whether the pitman arm shouldn't be at the 6 o'clock position with the wheels straight ahead; in my car, it is noticeably shy of that position with straight-ahead wheels. If this is incorrect, that would be another indication of adjustment required in the steering linkage; but, again, I don't see any indication that that much adjustment travel is available. One "remedy" that has occurred to me might be to reposition the pitman arm on the steering gear shaft (assuming it is splined rather than keyed). But might this result in unequal maximum steering angles? I'd certainly appreciate any ideas on this one. Thanks! ~ Charlie Manes

$15,000.00? A few years ago I bought an unrestored '35 coupe (same body as this '33, except without the dents), running and complete right down to the metal spare tire enclosure, for $7500.00. That seems enough dinero to pay for the kind of money pits that these lovable oldtimers invariably become.

Hi, Mark -- Thanks for your second very informative reply -- this one quite educational! Reminds me of the fact that the majority of the equipment manufactured these days are items that most people have never heard of.

Many thanks for the lessons, guys. By the way, I wonder if anyone has seen any evidence that the "spinning air" theory really works -- or works well enough to be considered effective.

I have recently acquired an excellent, bone-original '30 series 44 roadster, the earliest Buick I have owned (the next oldest having been a '35 46C). In the short time since I acquired it, this car has presented me with several mysteries, which I hope fellow owners of Buicks of this vintage can help me unravel. A few questions, if I may: 1. This car has a large, knurled crankhole cover (?), which features lugs like those on a radiator cap. Upon being unscrewed, the cover pops out in spring-loaded fashion but cannot be removed because it is attached to a thin rod whose other end seems to be captured within the crankshaft trunnion bearing or bearing carrier. What is the purpose of this arrangement? 2. While the sidemount hardware is complete (consisting of a vertical stanchion inboard of each wheel, threaded at the top for a large wingnut which tightens a curved clamp onto the top of the tire), just ahead of the base of each stanchion there is a substantial semicircular casting, mounted on each fender, that appears to be a receptacle for some kind of hardware. Could this have been intended for a different style of sidemount gear, perhaps for a different wheel? (Mine are wire.) 3. The air filter is a small can-like affair that cannot be opened (except perhaps with a can opener). Before I removed it from the carburetor, I expected to find some kind of filter element inside it. But, instead, it is empty. Is there an element or suitablmaterial that can be inserted into this item, perhaps along the curved vanes that line the airway into the carburetor? 4. Finally (for now, anyway) . . . I'm planning to drop and clean the oil pan and pickup screen before attempting to start the engine, which hasn't been run in 40 years. In scouting out this project, I find that in lieu of conventional flanges, the the front and rear of the pan are apparently gasketed in the manner of a bearing seal. (A guess borne out by the pan gaskets I have received from Bob's, which include two square-section cork strips.) This setup appears to be fraught with peril. What do I -- an unexcelled virtuoso at knuckleheaded mistakes -- need to know so that my garage floor will not rival Jed Clampett's backyard when I start the old mill? Thanks, guys, for any enlightenment you can lay on me. I can certainly use it! ~ Charlie Manes

I'm shocked, too. The cleanliness of that pan is amazing! Could this be a relatively fresh engine that's been on detergent oil since overhaul? (There appears to be new-ish paint on the crankcase casting.) By the way, sometimes I wonder about that guard plate attached to the oil screen -- seems a good place for sludge to accumulate in a seldom-used engine.

Brian -- Before starting a car that old that has been sitting that long, I would sure drop and clean the oil pan and oil pickup screen, especially if the engine was at some point switched from non-detergent to detergent oil. (I've seen oil screens in such circumstances so solidly blocked that not a drop of oil could have made it through.) And, before firing up, be sure to pre-charge the oil system -- easiest way is to apply a pump oiler to the oil pressure gauge outlet. For what it's worth, I'm getting ready myself to walk the talk on the yucky oil pan procedure, since I've recently acquired an excellent original '30 series-44 rumbleseat roadster that has not been run in 40 years. I shudder to think of what that oil pan looks like! Good luck with that beyond-cool slantback! ~ Charlie Manes