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Posts posted by Alex D.
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No pictures here to injoy.
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There is a 1937 v12 radiator listed on ebay with very good pictures.( http://www.ebay.com/itm/1937-Cadillac-V12-Radiator-Oem-/162658327165?hash=item25df311a7d:g:ufEAAOSwU8hY5U5q&vxp=mtr ) It may be the same as the 1936.
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The Condenser Tank (radiator overflow tank?) located on the right side frame rail is totally rust out on the bottom. A previous owner some 50 plus years ago had made a copper patch for the bottom. There is very little information on this tank in the service manual or the Authenticity Manual. I am in the process of making a new tank and my question is, would there have been some kind of drain plug in the bottom of this tank?
Alex Dunkle
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Incredible craftsmanship! It looks like after you install the plug wires it will fire up and run.
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1 year has passed .
The motor has been pulled and taken to a machine shop. The heads have magnafluxed for cracks and are good. The crankcase, crank and rods have been sent to a shop in Pittsburgh for re-babbiting and should be done shortly. The machine shop will install one sleeve in the bad cylinder, bore and install new pistons. The cam shaft will need reground due to pitting from moisture. We will then move on to the heads with new valves and guides. After the machine work is completed the engine will be returned to me for final assembly.
I have just started researching gasket sets for this engine. I have found sets from Olson and Egge. Does anyone have a recommendation on a source for gasket set?
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The continental will be beautiful with whichever color you choose. For my personal taste, I would go with the gray and red leather.
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nice fuel fill door
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Roger; I have been subscribed to this thread for well over a year with total amazement. The video puts a lot more into perspective with your hand showing the moving seats and windows. Amazing craftsmanship. Thanks for sharing this journey.
Alex D.
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Do not use NAPA! They will send it to someone in Texas and they in turn will send it accross the border for the rebuild and may or maynot be able to rebuild it. This process will take a couple of weeks. This is what the counter man at NAPA told me when I asked about a DeSoto water pump
Try http://arthurgouldrebuilders.com/. They do good work at a fair price and a very fast turnaround.
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I have rebuilt over a dozen different engines beside Ford and Chevy’s but no V12 Cadillacs. The Machine shop I use does have some experience on prewar engines and said he might be able to sleeve that block. Once the engine is pulled and the true condition is determined will be a deciding factor on the direction I will take. I will not spend $75,000.00 on a rebuild of that engine! I was looking on the Egge web site at pistons but will also check out Aries and Ross. Can you be more specific on the problem area of the torque tube? I know I am taking off a big bite, but I can’t just let the car sit and do nothing with it. If I find the motor beyond repair I will pass it on to the next person and they can part it or street rod it or whatever.
Thanks for your input
Alex
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2 hours ago, Restorer32 said:
Are you intending to do the rebuild yourself?
That’s the plan… The car came to me out of 50 years of storage with a broken piston and a badly scored cylinder. I will have a local machine shop check for cracks, sleeve and re-bore the cylinders. The heads will be rebuilt with new valves and guides. I will need to find someone to re-Babbitt the bearings.
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I am getting ready to pull the V12 from a 1932 sedan for a major overhaul. I cannot find any procedures in the service manual so I am turning to the forums for advice on the dos and don’ts specifically for the V12.
To start
What would be the best location to attach a chain or strap to the block?
Can the engine be pulled separate from the transmission or should they be pulled together?
How is the enclosed driveshaft detached from the transmission?
Thanks in advance for any advice on this project.
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A lot of these details may not be noticed after the final assembly but they are certainly noticed in this incredible build thread.
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I have used the Wiperman with good results and fast turn around..
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Has the car always rode this harsh for you?
Maybe overload springs have been added at some point. I have seen tis on cars that used to run shine.
Try disconnecting the shocks and see if that helps. Possibly the wrong shocks have ben installed.
Check for grease fittings on the rear shackles
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I'm well over the go fast stage of life, but still wonder WHY?
If you want to go fast in a quarter mile, why put 12 cylinders in a 80 year old body?,
If you want to set a speed record at the Salt Flats, why not use a newer high tech car.
Same goes for all the guys who built 60's cars to go fast and lose every stoplight drag to 4 cylinder rice rockets.
Makes no sense to me.
It's not about how fast you go.
It's about how you go fast.
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I think the biggest problem with coils today is that they are made in China or Mexico. I tried 3 new coils before I found one that was good. The car would start out running fine, the longer you run it the worse it would run till it would hardly run at all. The last coil I bought was from MSD and so far it is running strong. I am not aware of any coils made in the USA anymore. I have had the same problem with condensers. This is sad!
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" Jeep is America's only real sports car" Enzo Ferrari
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I would hope this site would be more receptive to anyone with a question about an antique automobile no matter what their plans are. You have a car that will cost way more to restore than what you could possibly get out of. The biggest value in the car will be the time you spend as a father and son project. With that said, hot rod the hell out of it and drive the wheels off of it. You may also want to join the HAMB where you will be welcome with open arms, just don't use the term Rat Rod!
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I bought my first car in 1968 from a local salvage yard for $600. Drove the car for a year until it lost oil pressure and water in the oil. Not being able to afford an engine rebuild the car was sold for $700. I didn't regret selling it but I wish I still had that 58 Jaguar XK150 Drophead today when I have to Write those college tuition checks for my son and daughter.
32 Cadillac V12 Exhaust Manifolds needed
in Parts Wanted
Posted
After sandblasting my heavily pitted Exhaust manifolds I found a hairline crack. It’s possible that this crack can be repaired but I would rather find some good replacements that do not have the heavy pitting. Any leads or advice is appreciated
Alex D.