Frank DuVal
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Posts posted by Frank DuVal
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Ed, what about the 00 grease Tractor Supply sells? It is a liquid, comes in a plastic bottle like gear lube.
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Look at them! 😉
Just sit and look at them.
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On 2/12/2024 at 8:44 AM, intimeold said:
And don't even try this job with a torque wrench.
And don't even try this job without a torque wrench.
TIFIFY (there, I fixed it for you) I hope!
In my younger years (early 30s), helping a friend, I did a crank shaft replacement on a 200 in a Maverick 3 speed with the engine staying in the car. I did several laying on my back crankshaft kits back then (Buick, Chevelle, etc). Somehow I thought it was easier than removing the engine....🤣
On valve seal replacements. I tried the air holding the valves closed but I had engines that would rotate to BDC from TDC while air was on them, and if the valve fell, well, I got one out with a small magnet tool, the other required removing the head, I did all the rest with rope holding the valves closed. No compressor needed, no fear of dropping a valve, easy peasy!👍 Sure, adds a few minutes to the job, but less sweating in fear of dropping another valve. Or stick with Corvairs, no rope or air needed! Gravity not working against you.😉
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On 2/11/2024 at 9:16 AM, Rusty Heaps said:
Any spark when connecting a battery cable is a concern. That’s why we always disconnect the negative cable. While uncommon a battery explosion is a real danger.
One disconnects the negative terminal on a negative ground car so the tools used to loosen the terminal will not make the BIG spark when they touch both the terminal and chassis.
On positive ground cars one disconnects the positive terminal first, for the same reason.😉🛠️
On 2/11/2024 at 7:02 PM, Rusty_OToole said:Shut off the dome light first.
While I agree with this, remove all known loads, the spark when first touching the terminal to the battery but no spark touching it again does not fit a dome light sparking characteristic. It fits a clock winding or capacitor charging spark characteristic.
Is this a Beetle? Then yes, the dome light is above the battery.... Not sure there is a switch to turn it off. Pretty basic car.❗
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Right, but the switch has to come out first.
Yes the ignition cylinder needs to be removed first. Then the indented ring/nut can be unscrewed to remove the switch from the bezel (escutcheon).
Only early cars with LOCK-ON-OFF do you turn the cylinder CW and insert the pin. All the others are turn cylinder CCW and insert pin (paper clip). Yes the key needs to be in to do this.
Russell Davis makes tools that fit the indented ring/nut so it can be removed without damage. He started making Corvair tools then expanded into other models. Blue Chip Machine is his company.
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On 2/12/2024 at 2:12 PM, joe_padavano said:
I got the sense he removed the bolts holding the fan to the clutch, not the clutch to the water pump. Keeping the V-belts in place definitely help when trying to loosen those nuts on the water pump flange.
That's the confusion, which nuts/bolts did he remove already! ❓ 🤔
To hold the water pump hub steady on a longitudinal engine vehicle, just use a screwdriver/pry bar between the bolts/nuts and the shaft of the fan clutch, no belts needed. Much easier than using the screwdriver/pry bar on the bolts holding the belt pulley to the water pump hub on transverse engines.
Note there are FWD vehicles with longitudinal engines, GM & SAAB to name two companies that made them.😉
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On 2/12/2024 at 7:42 AM, TAKerry said:
corvair grouping. My hats off to you for driving those roads and traffic,
Corvairs are modern cars, drive in ANY traffic!👍 They are meant to drive.😁
That blue one is the owner's only daily driver. Lives in the DC suburbs. He bought it with the dent in the RF fender.
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And it has to be CLEAN!😁👍
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2 hours ago, Matt88RegalCustom said:
Should I put the alternator and air pump back on with the belts so I can take the water pump pulley off?
OK, confused here. ❓ A fan clutch is used on longitudinal engines (the normal engine placement for years, not transverse FWD) since the fan assembly (blade/thermostatic clutch/hub) typically bolts to the water pump shaft's hub, like the pictures shown above.
Are these not the 4 bolts you mentioned you removed? The 4 bolts/studs that go through these 4 slots here and into the water pump hub?:
3 hours ago, EmTee said:
Or did you remove the 4 short bolts that hold the fan to the thermostatic clutch?
Or does your fan clutch not look at all like this picture?
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studebakerdrivers club.com 👍
My 1950 Commander came out of Washington 14 years ago. I would have recommended you get in touch with him, but sadly he passed away a few years ago. Western cars have waaay less rust than our local Studebakers.
Several SDC chapters up in the Northwest.
Allen Barth was his name and look, the website is still active! Maybe they still speak Studebaker, maybe not. They have a car show on May 18th in Allen's honor.
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Well I have valve envy. But, mine is brand new! So it is a conversation piece n the living room. ~4" head an d 7/8" stem.
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1 hour ago, Gunsmoke said:
Stilson/Monkey wrenches
Two different wrenches, with different operating characteristics. Picky picky picky....🤣🛠️
Monkey wrench only good on wrench flats. Just a version of a "Crescent" aka adjustable wrench.
Stilson has teeth for gripping round smooth pipe, and the head swivels on a pivot to allow the teeth to disengage when you rest the tool for another bite as you turn the pipe. You should see the imprints when the pipe is soft, like brass!
Visegrips are a substitution for smaller stuff. Harbor Freight 3/4" drive socket sets (and they make the 2" to 3" additional set, also in Metric) for large nuts in good shape. Snap On is just unthinkable in these sizes!😮
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That sure was a great looking Buick the Rohr's own!❗
The others were only visible when the vendors section was open.
Hey Terry, I was the one down on the front row who brought up the safety excuse for sealed beams in earlier cars, just so Dan would mention not all things that could be safety arguable are allowed without point deductions. Only those safety items listed in the judging manual are no deduction items.
Interesting on Dan saying the license plates are a judged item, as here in Virginia brand new clean undamaged license plates were not on the car as delivered by the dealer. You either got your used plates from your trade in or paper (cardboard) temporary plates. Now the dealers are computer linked to a service with DMV ties so they do issue new clean metal license plates if you do not have a trade in. If you are in an emission inspection area the decals are just for three months.
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Had a great time! Excellent seminars. Lots of people to meet, greet and bend ears.
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On 2/9/2024 at 2:17 PM, JACK M said:
Whats the pink stuff?
On 2/9/2024 at 2:38 PM, rocketraider said:Upstate South Carolina red clay!
On 2/9/2024 at 2:26 PM, JACK M said:Ours still look like mud.
Obviously Jack, you do not live where there is red clay! I have rarely seen brown mud dauber nests, they are usually pink to red around here.👍 Of course ours is Virginia red clay...
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In the Studebaker world, a sbc 350 is not unusual to find, nor a fatal detriment. We need to know a lot more.
Also post pictures here and on studebakerdriversclub.com and the answers will be a lot more helpful.
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Awaiting radio answer. Something with memory? ❓ ❄️
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Radio with memory? One that was added later in life?
The small spark usually means charging of a capacitor. Once charged there is no spark, until later .
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10 hours ago, 60FlatTop said:
Diligently following the shift pattern will help.
i.e. do the H pattern, not straight line from point to point!😮
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I agree in general. It is way over used and abused on threads that do not benefit from its application and gets into places that cause trouble. This application should not be one of the problem areas, since these threads do not touch the fluid path of the normal brake system. These threads just hold the bleeder screw from falling out of the wheel cylinder, pressure of the system is held by the ground faces of the wheel cylinder and the screw.
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Hey Marty, did you look at corvairforum yet????
https://www.corvairforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=19103
Right, Joe, I should have left the strength comment out. The rockers already have enough strength, the cars do not collapse until the tin worm eats a lot of steel out of the rockers.
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1 hour ago, Bloo said:
Your system must have leaked if it was rising to atmospheric in-between pumps, because that is entirely a non-issue in practice. In 40+ years I have never seen it.
That is my experience also. Works just fine. I also stopped the bleeder screw sucking air by putting a single wrap of PTFE tape o the threads of the screw IF they leak. Most do not.
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Clarks Corvair Parts. The largest of the suppliers. His used stock is not as plentiful as the ones I mentioned. He is my go to supplier for upholstery and new / reproduction parts.
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On 2/2/2024 at 3:29 PM, joe_padavano said:
The problem I've had with the Mityvac is the risk of air getting back into the system when you pump it.
Not sure how this could happen. You mean if the hose slipped off? ❓ Just pump it up again with the hose on. Same if the hose slips off using the Vacula.
Turbinator Nails It-Again
in Buick Riviera
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