Frank DuVal
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Posts posted by Frank DuVal
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455 is not hard to rebuild. Parts are available.
As all responses said, what's wrong with it?
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I've got most every brand of power tool! Electric and Pneumatic. When you buy mostly used or inherit this happens. But this does not answer the OP's question.
It looks modern. By modern I mean after plastic became normal on power tools, maybe late 60s through 90s. Does it have the standard NEMA 5-15P plug? That three prong one so prevalent in the US. Earlier (40s 50s) tools had the two prong plug, some with a green pigtail hanging out to attach to a ground screw.
On second look, that might be black metal, not plastic, but then that might mean the manufacturer produced a similar cheaper version with plastic parts that are black and had a different name on it. It has a Black and Decker look to it, but then there are several other similar manufacturers.
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The sealant for flare refrigerant fittings is Blue Nylog. (Or red Nylog). The refrigerant is not a solvent for these products. I've never used sealant on other flare fittings. There are copper sealing washers you can use on the flares. Parker makes them.
Glad AHa had the AHa moment and fixed the issue!👍
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4 hours ago, ABear said:
200 lbs worth of iron dropping even inches can and will smash fingers or toes to the point they need removed.
Simple, don't put your body parts between heavy things and immovable objects. Rule 1. Never ignore rule 1.
4 hours ago, ABear said:OP has a flat head, lots of spots there to attach, take nut off, install lift plate, put nut on.
I've seen head gaskets go bad from this approach, well if the nut is on a head stud, as most of those in the picture are.
I do agree a more rearward placement of the rear strap would be better. If the strap is held by a crank main then it isn't going anywhere. I would still follow rule #1!
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15 hours ago, avgwarhawk said:
Crane companies use similar straps everyday!
Yes! And picking up way heavier and expensive stuff too.😉
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To check the ammeter I would just connect one wire to the hot battery terminal (whether + or - depending on if positive or negative ground) and the other terminal to the wire to a head lamp or heater motor. It should read. Read what? Well, that depends on the amp rating of the head lamp or heater motor. Or do you mean to test the charging system?
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That tire and tube is AMAZING! ❗
I take it this Mack is mechanical brakes with an adapted booster to help move the brake linkage. Is this right? ❓
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42 minutes ago, 58L-Y8 said:
During Alfred Sloan's mid-'20's to early '30's "Companion Car" marketing program to develop a second nameplate for the established GM makes to augment their product lines,
And all failed except Pontiac. Yep, Oakland went away.
I looked at a 1930 Marquette a few years ago (5?) that was woodless (best description) and decide not to buy it. At the time I thought the engine was an Oldsmobile derivative, but don't quote me! Research needed. My friend who was with me to look at it thought maybe a steel superstructure could be fabricated faster than making all the wood needed to hold all those sheet metal panels together.🤣
Buick, Valve In Head.👍 99.99%
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Right. This was probably NOT a one off produced booster, but sourced from another vehicle, even if aftermarket, so it could be similar to another vehicle's booster a forum member may have seen. More information is always better than less information when trying to get answers for obscure questions. 😉
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Interesting, Larry, I thought S meant extended tip, as in the electrodes were further out from the shell. As in you can see porcelain when looking perpendicular to the shell. Maybe they also have the unthreaded part of the shell so it is the same S?
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No. There were improvements during those years.
Now can it fit? I do not know.
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Well, I'll give information on Clarks' Upholstery, but from the Corvair side of the bucket seat isle. You need strong hands! You will be pulling and stretching up inside that seat back. The back may seem simple, just pull it on, but there is a lot going on inside there that you have to do. Then you have to stretch it to join the ends at the bottom. The bottom of the seats and the rear seats are not enclosed, so they are easier. I did not say easy!😉
A fellow Corvair guy in Virginia was an upholsterer and he said the seat backs were hard on hands. But he still jumped in and helped me and the seat owner get the covers on during a Corvair meet. A mini Tech Session. That was about 10 years ago. A helper is great, like in this example, as one needs hand strength or two hands.
As stated above, get all the internal parts you may need. I thought (please confirm!) I just saw Clarks does not have the cloth covered wiggly (listing?) wire. I may have these terms confused, as some wiggly wire is bare, or maybe it was once covered and now bare when I removed it.😮
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Just like Weller soldering guns, the tip nuts HAVE to be tight! I see the tip nut wrench in the ad, but do not see wrench flats on the tip nuts???? Have Channellocks? That's what I use once the flats wear off the Weller tip nuts. Yes, I have used 8200 series guns for over 60 years. D550 when I need bigger heat. After that I use the 300 watt American Beauty Iron. Maybe tin gutters?🤣
Now, the newer crop of Wellers, having been cheapened, have "Allen" screws instead of the old 3/8" nuts, but they can come apart internally, which is bad, same as loose tip nuts, high resistance = low amps = low heat, E=IR and all that. Pick up an old 8200 with actual tip nuts at a yard sale or such.👍
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Well, until recently (OK recently in the last 30 years!) there were only two major fluids, Dexron (I II III and the superseded Type A) and Type F for Fords. So Dexron was the go to fluid for changeovers, as friction modifiers were not needed to shift properly in hydraulic systems other than transmissions. Then all these Vehicle Manufacturers decided if Ford had their own fluid then so would Toyota, Honda, etc and so forth and to keep these automatics running right you needed the manufacturer's fluid. AAAHHHH! ❗
So, Dexron. The III is fine. aka Dexron III/Mercon, or Dex Mec (or is that Tex Mex?) Dex Merc. 🚗🛠️🏎️
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Allan, stick around. AACA likes Oldsmobiles. And several people post on Buick forums that own them, like Rockettrader and Joe Padavano.
Trying to teach my daughter not to turn the steering wheel until the car was moving was difficult, as all we had at the time were cars with power steering or Corvairs to drive (or projects...🤣). Those can be steered lock to lock while sitting still.❗
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In the mid 60s most gray wires in the dash area were the dash lights, that come on with the parking or headlamps, and is dimmable by the headlamp switch.
Does this answer your question? ❓
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13 hours ago, Wayne R said:
i know with chev corvette there is also a ground at the switch on dash--so that may the problem.
RIGHT! 👍
Unless this Buick Rivera is wildly different from GM cars of the electric wiper era, (yes, that's a LOT of years!), you put the hot to the hot lead of the wiper motor and a ground to the lead (or leads) to the dash switch! The grounding of the motor to the cowl is to make the PARK function work!🛠️☃️🚋
Also grounding the lead to the WASH switch makes the WASH solenoid pull in while the motor is turning, which it does due to the PARK switch now calling to wash the window. 😉
And I hope your battery charger can supply at least 15 amps.
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On 3/12/2024 at 11:23 AM, Str8-8-Dave said:
One other idea is to remove a piece of solid copper wire from some 14AWG
That's what I have used, some solid copper or steel wire. Or even welding/brazing/tig wire (of some solderable alloy). No, not MIG wire, those straight lengths. Soldering is better than tape, as the hole is usually small. Well, on second thought, a length of .030 or .035 MIG wire might do the trick too, since it should be a straight piece of pipe from top to bottom of column. That you might also be able to loop at an end and crimp onto the new horn wire.
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On 3/9/2024 at 5:18 PM, Rusty_OToole said:
Auto parts stores sell aluminum killed sheet metal for the purpose, it has a rust proof coating but can easily be welded.
You must be up north. I have never seen sheet metal for sale in auto parts stores, much less specifically aluminum killed sheets. I used to buy 4 x 10 sheets from the HVAC suppliers. They also had non galvanized.
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5 hours ago, dodge28 said:
Some manufacturers used screws with strange heads . One of those was used on a flexible driver to adjust the ignition contacts on my 68 Biscayne v 8.
That was just a 1/8" "Allen" head screw. aka Socket Head Screw. Very common. Also come in Button head and Flat head designs. You could use the "L" shaped 1/8" "Allen" wrench (aka Hex Key) just fine on most GM cars.
5 hours ago, dodge28 said:Tool makers were one step ahead.
Well, they made the tools the appliance manufacturers bought to assemble them in the first place.😉 No use making a fastener that has no tool to install it.
Need more "weird" head screws, look at this page from McMaster-Carr:
https://www.mcmaster.com/products/screws/
Oh yes, the 12 point screws found in engines these days....😮
🛠️🏎️🚗🚋☃️
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NEITHER! So the answer is Hot Water! SO hot it is called steam cleaner. THAT gets the job done! I have a small Alkota like the current model 122 I bought used 35 years ago from the local Alkota dealer. I had borrowed a locomotive looking unit and it did the job of cleaning used cars of the detailing products they did to try and avoid needing a body shop, but didn't succeed, so now we had to fix it. Washing just wouldn't get the Silicone compounds off the car and under the hood. So off to buy one and the dealer had this "little" model used. Yes, there was a learning curve to not hurt the underhood electronics, but even the Nissan Q45 recovered....😮
This unit will strip grease off of parts so nice! Pressure is lower than the cold water units, so not so much worry about forcing water into crevices.
BUT! Read all the instructions of how not to burn yourself. The big unit I borrowed was used to clean restaurant hoods of grease, and the workers in short sleeves wore red arm tattoos because they would contact the wand metal parts trying to get up into the ducts. 😉
🚋🎠🚗🏎️
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I don't follow what you are saying. Flipped what? The image you posted is the exact same as the one in the first post. Same parts in the same relation with the same labels and the parking brake lever is to the rear of the assembly (mounted to Secondary Shoe). Right rear brake assembly.
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On 2/4/2024 at 1:55 PM, Treozen said:
2) Good luck getting over 60MPH, and take a running start at hills.
Utter nonsense! They could not have sold a Buick with such a limitation. Especially a Roadmaster or Skylark!
On 2/4/2024 at 9:49 PM, Treozen said:Well, I would only want one with power steering and power brakes, disk preferably - so "stock" wouldn't work either. That's really why this car is such a quandary - it has much of what I'd want. I don't worry too much about the subframe - everything I've read on how these are done makes sense, and this one was subbed by a shop, not some guy with a welder and a hacksaw 😉 , and based on the videos of the work, it was done correctly.
Well, it was still a guy with a hacksaw and welder. He just probably kept the hacksaw in the tool box and used the plasma cutter.
What is the fascination with disc brakes? First you get ideas from people that a Dynaflow won't get to 60 MPH, then you suddenly need to stop in 50 feet? Millions of miles were put on these cars with stock drum brakes.
And I wonder what the shop was thinking when they put a subframe in a Buick? It seems to solve NO problem, yet makes more problems. Power brake and power steering options would have made a much nicer driving Buick. You know, king pins are not that hard to replace.
I drove a '56 Special for years and never thought it was slow. If I needed more power, I simply pressed the go pedal to switch pitch the turbine. The switch pitch Dynaflows also had a very unique feature. They switch pitch in any gear set. Drive, Low and ........... REVERSE! What other transmissions have a passing gear in Reverse? ❓
The 53 is not switch pitch, so it is slower off the line. Makes up for it soon, though.
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Fram type canister oil filter--some questions
in General Discussion
Posted
The small hole may be the restriction to limit how much oil flows through the filter. Too much flow and it robs the bearings of flow. On various systems the restriction can be in the fittings on the block, the filter or inside the filter.😉