Frank DuVal
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Posts posted by Frank DuVal
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For something cheap in the 30 to 40% Methanol concentration, just buy the blue windshield washer fluid.
Here is O'Reilly's MSDS:
http://rfsd-wi.safeschoolssds.com/document/repo/42f1037c-9047-4b5e-8254-17603c669c46
I have this in my Willys-Knight, as recommended by the club (WOKR).
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Lubricate the cable. There is special speedometer cable lube, Google will give results.
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The use of "circuit breaker" in the above discussion, you are meaning the generator cut out relay? Circuit breakers are to open a circuit when too much current is drawn to prevent fire.
Voltage regulators look at voltage (and the three coil types also look at current draw) and vary the voltage going to the field terminal to control charging.
Generator cut outs are used for three brush generators and others with fixed outputs, to keep the battery from going dead when the engine is not running.
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Let's start with basics. What gear oil is specified, and what gear oil did you use?
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There is an engineering blunder if one thinks the stuff flowing through the "cooling system" being warmer makes the metal parts of an engine cooler. The coolest part of the engine is the cooling system, by definition (OK, maybe not counting the bottom of the oil pan, so far removed form the cooling system, I am speaking of the things cooled by the cooling system
). So the transfer of heat from the combustion chamber to the cooling system cannot get better if the coolant is warmer. Oil is also a coolant, but unless there are fins on the oil pan, it does not do as much as the cooling system.
As to why babbitt bearings and anti-freeze do not go well together, I would think it was because anti-freeze is not a recommended lubricant. Ever pulled a dipstick on a car with a failed head gasket? Baby $%$# color and sticky. Now, why worry only about antique cars that have poured babbitt bearings, since most all cars have babbitt bearings! That is the white looking metal on the shell bearings in most very car engine! If there was worry about anti-freeze damaging babbitt, no manufacturer would use it!
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Did you ask Randy, since he makes them? He is Fifth Avenue Antique Auto Parts.
Phone number right on alternator.
I think Padgett is right also.
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You are not pumping the pedal like a Tommy gun are you? I ask because I saw someone doing that, thinking it was correct method!
What method are you using, two people, one man bleeder, hand vacuum pump (Mighty Vac), pressure bleeder?
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I guess I will continue to restore Dad's last new car he purchased. 1979 Chevette Scooter.
I kept it because I never saw any others running around. Then, at our local AACA show a few years ago (coming again this year on June 3), a 78 Scooter shows up from Pennsylvania! Oh well, competition....
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Wait, the secondary of the ignition coil (the high voltage) is always designed with the same polarity, regardless of the primary polarity! You ALWAYS want the electrons to leave the sharp center electrode and go towards the ground electrode. Always. If you reverse the secondary polarity, it WILL affect the running of the engine, and not in a good way.
So, always point the arrow towards the spark plug. It doesn't matter if the battery circuit is positive or negative ground, or if a small magneto engine with no battery!!!!!
Sorry, I do not have a schematic. But, do check for loose connections, continuity of the pick up coil, and other Friartuck ideas.
Frank DuVal
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I have that Mastercool kit also. Great tool. Sometimes a little handfull to hold all the pieces in place while twisting the mandrel into the die.
I use Cunifer for all my steel tubing needs. Living in the east, I am tired of replacing brake lines that I ALREADY replaced! Stainless steel flare nuts are also available (like form Summit racing), along with the stainless steel armor (brake line guard) that is common on GM line sets.
Cunifer is very easy to bend and flare.
Unless the pre-bent lines come on a large wood plank, you usually need to bend them to fit anyway.
Frank DuVal
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Marty, that dates your response! Both the 5% interest you got on a CD and it was from a Savings and Loan. This was an 80s story at the most recent...
Rule of 78s. Very common also back in the 70/80s, but almost unheard of today. It is prohibited in the US on loans with terms 61 months or longer.
I would like to not replace a daily driver, but salt here is a concern on steel bodies!
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Excellent!
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Dupont sold it's auto paint line to Caryle Grpoup, who renamed it Axalta.
It is still a PPG competitor, not same ownership.
ICI used the name Duco for house paint also.
ICI polyester film division was bought by DuPont, but I digress.
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Matt, more power? You just need a Park Avenue Ultra!
BTW, I am looking for a nice low miles 2005 Ultra myself.
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Just in case you didn't know, that 72 Ford truck was factory acrylic enamel. Ford was not a lacquer user for long.
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Hmmm, Type A was superceeded by Dexron, then Dexron I , Dexron II, etc.
Type F ATF was used in Fords and Borg Warner transmissions, which did not use type A. Type FA is a modified version of type F. The A of FA does not reference the old 50s Type A. FA does not mean "F or A".
They are all hydraulic fluid with similar viscosities, just the friction modifiers are different, which affects the clutches. Your power steering unit should not have a clutch pack, so it probably does not care.
I have always used the current Dexron for Type A applications in transmissions and power steering units. For recent cars, the cap says use Power Steering Fluid, (not ATF), and I do that.
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If you have cheap flarenut wrench but need to use it, put Visegrips around the wrench to hold it tighter to the fitting. But only in an emergency. And it still might not work. Then buy good ones.
Funny, my old Craftsman flarenut wrenches (40 years?) are fine. I did get a used set of the Snap-On RXS series, with the really wide open end wrench. That is a nice feature for when the nut is actually loose, instead of switching to a combination or open end wrench to finish removing the nut.
What do you mean don't use pliers on flarenuts? Visegrips work great! Oh, you want six flats to still be on the fitting, not 25 splines....
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Larry, I have several different types of those crimpers, insulated, non-insulated, coax and open barrel (Molex style). But my go to crimper is the Ideal 30-500 with the appropriate die.
YMMV
I have seen the eyelets the OP needs on electric motors also. But I have no source.
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The reason Buick radios were wired direct to the battery instead of through the ignition switch was so one could listen to the radio with the engine off with no point damage. It was a feature, not an oversight.
So the Chevies parked at the drive in (With car hops) listening to the radio burned their points, the Buicks started just fine with no points burning!
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I see them at Corvair shows from time to time. I always seem them at the Corvair national convention.
A very lightweight RV.
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I've been using DOT 5 brake fluid in my classic cars since the early 80s. I've never had problem with it. I do always add it to a clean system. Usually because I replaced all the hydraulic hoses, steel lines (now I replace those with Cunifer) and rebuild the master and wheel cylinders at the same time.
I love the fact that my classic cars have working brakes for years. Not the typical DOT 3 systems that form corrosion in just a few years causing pistons to seize in the wheel cylinders with that white crap. Who actually flushes their DOT 3 systems every 2 to 3 years?
Some people have issues with DOT 5. I did not understand why until I saw a guy "help" bleed a brake system. He pumped up the master by quickly and forcefully pressing the brake pedal to the floor about 20 times everytime he wanted the other person to open the bleeder. He was making foam in the master cylinder better than the food industry making whipped cream! Where do people get these ideas? Not from any shop manual I've read....
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Solid wire has less resistance so it is better
Not according the the wire resistance charts!
Like this one:
http://www.calmont.com/pdf/calmont-eng-wire-gauge.pdf
Frank DuVal
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I second the use of Cunifer (Nicop, copper/nickle/etc). It lasts forever. Just ask Volvo! I am tired of replacing steel brake lines for the second time. Yes, I live in the rusty east. Our lines do not last 50 years.I have replaced some as early as 12 years.
SUR&R makes Cunifer rolls and fitting kits.
I also second the use of that Mastercool hydraulic crimper. But, the simple bar type works good with Cunifer also.
Cunifer is easy to hand bend. No cans to bend around? Use large sockets.
Yes, some OEM bends are really tight. I've used sockets, and I've put the bending tool arm between the fitting and the flare to make it short.
Also, buy stainless steel armor, that spring looking stuff on lots of GM brake lines. Summit racing carries it. Calls it Classic tube brake line guard. So does Brakequip. It makes your lines look OEM.
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). So the transfer of heat from the combustion chamber to the cooling system cannot get better if the coolant is warmer. Oil is also a coolant, but unless there are fins on the oil pan, it does not do as much as the cooling system.
speedometer
in General Discussion
Posted
Depends on how well you can still get under the dash!
Harder now for me....
Unscrew (I think the 71 still unscrews from the speedometer) the ring holding the cable to the speedometer. Pull cable assembly off speedometer. Holding end of cable out of the car, pull the center out of the cable housing, careful, it should be covered with lube. Clean and apply more lube, reinstall inner core into housing, reattach to speedometer head. Test drive. When the inner core is almost all the way back into the housing, it might stop going in. This is because the square end needs to enter the speedometer gear in the transmission. Simply rotating the inner core will usually line it up and slip right in. In worst case, unscrew housing from transmission and slip it back in there.
You cannot pull the inner core out from the transmission end, as there is a collar on the upper end of the core at the speedometer.