Frank DuVal
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Posts posted by Frank DuVal
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A steering wheel puller is cheaper than buying another steering wheel.
The cheap disc type usually works.
Or you can buy the $20 heavy duty looking type.
Then there is the drill two holes correctly spaced in a 1 x 1 angle iron and tighten them against the steering shaft. Has been known to work, YMMV.
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On 8/20/2017 at 10:29 AM, old-tank said:
..and wheel rim size everywhere is in inches...
Except for those short lived metric rim sized Michelin TRX tires back in the late 70, mid 80s. I found them on Mustangs and Peugeot 505s. Coker tire makes them now.
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According to that new highly accurate database, aka Wikipedia
, you would have better luck with 264 cu in pistons. Why?
Bore and stroke:
198 3.625 x 3.1875
215 3.5 x 2.8
225 3.75 x 3.4
264 3.625 x 3.2
Now I have no idea if the pin diameter or height to top of piston, shape, etc are the same for 264 and 198 pistons. But, 215 and 198 are a definite no go.
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What is wrong with Money Orders?
If you need a Postal Money order around here, you will have to spend at least 20 minutes of your life in line at the Post Office, up to an hour! Add that to having a job that I have to be at during the time the Post Office is open.......
Money Orders from other sources are just checks drawn on checking accounts. No guarantee they are going to be good. I had a friend who received money for rent and the renters usually got their money orders from the local store. So my friend had to call the store several times to get the money orders to clear!
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I second the copper spray. Spray all sides of gasket and the surfaces it is going to stick to.
Plenty of ideas on the web for flatness, most do thousandths per a certain length. Here is one:
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It is a post war chart. Posted to help with the 48X and LM series questions.
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I posted this in the Buick forum recently.
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Right, good ground showing on the points terminal of the coil is only a good sign when the points are closed. When the points are open, the terminal of the coil going to the points should show battery voltage (or close).
As Tin says, while holding the coil high tension lead close to ground, remove the lead going to the points. A spark SHOULD happen if the points are closed. If the points are open, no spark should happen, so look for this wire touching ground where it shouldn't. Also make sure the "new" condenser is not shorted.
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Yes, but despite the issues, where else in the world can you see a major part of Dave Cammick's Tucker collection? I can no longer see it in Alexandria, VA, as he donated it to the museum in Hershey upon his death.
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I find this website to be helpful with paint codes:
http://www.autocolorlibrary.com/aclchip.aspx?image=1973-Buick-pg01.jpg
If that is 48, then Midnight Green
And the trim is "Neutral". See page two of that link.
You have a black vinyl roof? The B before PNT could mean the trim around the roof is black, this info also on page 2.
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Permatex High Tack
https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/gasket-sealants/permatex-high-tack-gasket-sealant/
The "strings" will drive you nuts, but it works well and parts come apart and clean up later. Put some on every surface, wait (contact type cement), assemble parts. if you use it sparingly, nothing sticks out like the horrible looking RTV gushed out of every seal.
There are lots of sealers out there. Most work. Some get sworn at, some get sworn by.
My west coast friends suggest Gascacinch. Others like "Right Stuff" RTV. At least it is black....Nothing makes "restored" cars look ugly like red/blue/orange sealers! 
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I find this website to be good for color research.
http://www.autocolorlibrary.com/aclchip.aspx?image=1953-Buick-pg01.jpg
IIRC, the paint code should be on the body tag fastened to the firewall.
Interior paint is of different gloss levels depending on what part is painted. Dashes tend to be about 60 % gloss. they are not usually the same shade as exterior colors. If a local auto paint supplier has a "scanner" to read the color, get them to add a little flattening agent.
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The Classic Car Center is here in Fredericksburg, VA. Mostly post war cars are stored there the last time I stopped by. Owner has a 1931 (?) Packard there. Check their website to see if it holds interest for you.
You could stop by my house, but the 38 Graham in my picture has the front sheetmetal off for water tube replacement and replace supercharger drive bearing.
Luray Caverns is good. Both caverns and car museum. You missed the "Cooter's Last Stand" held near there two weekends back. I missed it too. Way more General Lees in one spot than you could shake a stick at.
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Way way far from topic, but I had to correct my own statement. The first number of the AC Delco part number is the thread size of the plug. 4 means 14 mm, and 8 means 18 mm.
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And on the S suffix the Tip extends further out from the shell. The length from the gasket surface to the electrode is longer on the S plug.
I just wanted to show that the F suffix is also unthreaded, just like the same place on the S suffix.
I also hope they also learned that the number is only heat range on AC plugs, and the suffix can be important.
But have we taught them that AC in AC Delco is the same Champion as in Champion plugs? Albert.
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I got a better picture of a 44S and attached it. I also attached a picture of R44F. They look to have the same starter missing threads to me. But, maybe the S unthreaded area is slightly longer.I would include a picture of a non suffix 44, but most everyone knows they have threads all the way to the end of the shell.
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Close, according to AC Delco, the S is extended tip. That's what I observed years ago with R44S plugs vs R44 plugs.
The Corvair used FF suffix plugs, and when they becme unavailable, AC made F suffix, which also has the "starter' unthreaded area like the S in your picture.
I like your description of how they are made.
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He is on the cc forum now!
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I remember a "Model Garage" article where Gus Wilson solved a fuel delivery problem where someone left out a ferrule or it was cracked (hey, it was 40 years ago!). So I would think the story was about what the factory had installed. These stories usually were about cars less than 10 years old at the time.
McMaster Carr makes up a lot of terms for their items that the industry does not use. Like nipples that are "Fully Threaded" instead of the correct "Close Nipple".
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15 hours ago, cahartley said:
Nothing wrong with steel brake line except it's more difficult to flare.
As long as it sits in a garage most of the time, doesn't get driven in the rain, and Ethanol fuel is never sent through the insides. I've given up on regular steel tubing for any automotive application. Even that coated steel stuff fails from salt (I know, antiques should never be subjected to it, but my daily drivers do. I'm tired of replacing brake lines the second time).
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I agree with the Cunifer suggestion. Really great stuff. I get mine with the brand name SUR&R Easy bend.
No need for pipe bending machine/tool/whatever when using Cunifer. Just easy bends with hands. For really tight bends I use a hand bending tool.
You can get copper from Mcmaster Carr at a very high price. P/N 8955K241 Not suggested.
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The post numbers might be back, but I can hardly see them, they are grayed out, along with the weird sideways V with an x, whatever that is. And then next to that might be something else, waaaayyyyy tooo grayed out to read.
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Low beam burned out should have no effect on any other electrical issue.
Yes to ground issue on driver's side.
The tail lamp housing comes out of the body by loosening the bolts, then rotating the housing so the mounting bracket ears align with slots in the body, then it pulls out.
You can solder a wire to the brass socket and attach the other end to a ground. It is possible to drill a small hole into the frame rail area and use a #6 sheet metal screw. Or attach it to one of the engine sheetmetal screws.
Another issue on these style sockets (used on many cars for years) with the eyelets on springs, is the springs get rusty and weak. Spraying them with lube may help get them to move. Also you can use a 1/2" copper pipe fitting wire brush to clean the inside of the socket. Make sure all power to the socket is off before using the wire brush.
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Center the switch actuator (where the cable wire hooks in) to get both brake lights and no signal indicators on. The switch was made with three positions n mind to get the right action. Now that it is disconnected from the detent spring, you have hundreds of possible positions, of which 97 are useless information, ignore them.
Simple steering wheel puller can take wheel off. Take care to note where all the horn switch pieces go, beville washer, etc. Take pictures as you remove the parts if you never did it before. We answer a lot of these "where does the washer go, and it what position" questions on the forum (corvaircenter.com/phorum). 5/16"-18 long bolts thread into the wheel to go with wheel puller.
Small plastic wheel goes on the side of the ZZ shaped spring (detent spring) with the three possible positions once you get in there. Putting the plastic wheel on the two possible position side will not work right. I know, makes no sense now, but it will once the wheel is off.
One lamp getting brighter and one lamp going dimmer is a sure sign of a bad ground. Re-read my post about using a jumper wire to ground the actual bulb shell to test.
A shop manual (1961) with the 62/3 supplement should be your very next purchase. While awaiting delivery, the Corvanatics people (the FC [Forward Control] vans and pickups of Corvair production) have resources you need:
http://www.corvair.org/chapters/corvanatics/files/documents/manuals/shop61/8-elctSys-61.pdf
New switch or used switch?
, you would have better luck with 264 cu in pistons. Why?
Atlas Wax
in General Discussion
Posted
Ah yes, Atlas Plycron, two larger gaps in the tread and lots of smaller ones, very distinctive pattern. I ran many back in the 70s.
Here in VA, Atlas was sold in both Esso (Exxon) and Amoco stations. Very common auto products. I still have Atlas air filters on the shelf that fit something I own, probably Corvairs.