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Hello, I need to replace my rear U-Joint on my 57 Century 4dr hardtop and I am looking for a replacement as this one is shot. What is the current model number to replace this U Joint? I have searched and a 534G or 234 was the replacement part, but the cups are too big. We went to the parts store with the old one and measured it and nothing matches. If anyone knows, please let me know. Thank you, Jason

Thanks for all of the replies. I'll be putting it back in. Now time to swap out my wheel bearings. Replace some oil pan gaskets, and any other leaks that I can find...

Awesome, thanks! There is no play in the twisting of it. so I'll leave it as it is.

Oh wow really? I took it to an old school mechanic and he's never seen this before. I have the Dynaflow transmission. Does anyone know where I can source parts for this? I cannot find this U joint anywhere.

Hello, 1957 Buick Century I have a question about the front U Joint in the Torque Ball. Is the U Joint supposed to slide up and down and side to side within the yoke? You can see in the first image how the U joint sticks up, and then second photo it doesn't. Is this normal? I have attached some images.

Hey everyone, I've made it to Montana two days ago and having a great time here. Tomorrow we are departing Butte and should arrive mid-afternoon at the hotel in Spokane Valley. See you all there!

I'll take a look for an access port on the rear end. My vibration is happening while not moving at around 1380rpm. It is not as severe the last couple of days once I changed the fuel filters, re-tensioned the belts, and adjust the choke and idler screws. I am traveling for 3 hours down to Calgary, and picking someone up, then continuing on. If the situation gets worse I'll bail on the Buick and drive down in a Honda 😳.

I am going to put some miles on it this week and see what happens. I also used some carb cleaner to clean up the sinuses of this old girl. I also need a new rad cap. If it's not one thing it's another... From my most recent test drive I think it will be ok for the drive from Alberta to Washington state. We are going to take the scenic route through Montana starting Sunday and spend a few days there before we end up in Spokane on Wednesday.

Just an update, I adjusted the carb to run richer than it was, and opened up the idle screws 1/2 turn. Took it out for a run and it is smoother than what it was before. Tomorrow I am going to pick up a new fuel filter and swap that out.

Ok everyone, with help from Matt from Centerville Auto, this is what I have determined. After some digging I believe it is a 59 or 61 - 401 with 364 Heads. So here are some numbers Block Cast - 1196546 - (61 - 401) Intake Manifold - 1185976 - (63 - 401) Head Cast - 1172889 - (57-61 - 364) And the balancer is for a 364, which it had on it for the last 35 years without an issue. Now I am debating on whether or not to switch it to a 401 balancer, even though it did run smooth with this 364 one. I am planning on going to the BCA show in Spokane, WA and was planning on leaving this Saturday.

Ok, so I measured the weight on the balancer. From what I read, find the center mark and then measure counter-clockwise until you get to the weight, that measurement is 7.25". That is the distance for a 364... I was told that I had a 401 because my water pump is the long one. I measure the distance between the two intake bolts and it is 9" which is an indicator that it is a 401 as well. So maybe my weight spun to the exact distance of a 364? or this Buick has had the wrong balancer for the last 35 years and ran smooth until last month. I am getting my information from - https://www.nailheadbuick.com/post/balancer-info Here is an image of the cast numbers at the front, starts with letter C I've attached a photo of the number on the upper block by the firewall.

I checked the three mounts and they look good. I'll try adjusting the carb and see if that changes the vibration at certain RPM's

I'll reach out after I try a couple of things and fail, thanks

Honestly, I do not know the exact flexplate. I believe the 401 came out of a 62-63 and mated to the original 57 Dynaflow. This vibration is a recent issue, it has been running fine for the last 35 years.

I read on another site that the distance from the timing mark to where the weight start (going counter clockwise) should be 5in on a 401. Tomorrow I'll try to located it and measure it out.... never done this before. Ah, the adventures 😊

Hey there, I am not to sure as this is out of my scope of knowledge. Is there something that I couldn't check to know that it would be out? I went out and check the front harmonic balancer and the bolts seem okay and visually it looks okay.

Radials, new this spring with a date code of 33rd week of 22.

Upon further troubleshooting, when I am parked and rev up the engine about 1/4 throttle, (if I had to guess 1500rpm) the car produces a similar vibration. I removed the balance plate cover and did a visual check of the teeth and plate, and rotated it a few times to check it out and there are no visible cracks or damage.

Thanks for the reply. I checked around the torque tube and couldn't find a hole for servicing. I also read up on the front U-Joint in the Maintenance Manual and it states "The universal joint, torque ball, and speedometer drive gears are automatically lubricated from the transmission." and something similar for the rear U-Joint about packed grease from the surrounding bearings. Is the access hole on top of the torque tube?

Hello, I have a 57 Century with a 401 transplant in it and a Dynaflow. Over the winter I changed the tires and did a oil change. Now I have a slight vibration that I can feel in the steering wheel when driving around 30mph and around 60mph. If I go 70mph the vibration lessens. The tires are BG Goodrich Silvertowns from Coker, and I have had them rebalanced twice at different shops. I have also rotated the tires, and eliminated one tire at a time by swapping in my spare tire. I also had a little to much engine oil in the block, about 1/4inch above full, so I drained it and it is now right on the full line. I have checked my bushings and they look good, except for my sway bar bushings, they are 100% shot, but I will replace them tomorrow when the parts store opens, but i don't think that is the issue. I have checked the steering linkage and it looks/feels solid. I have a feeling it has to do with the engine balance or something like that. I was thinking it could be a U Joint, but with a torque tube, I don't know where/how to check that out... Any suggestions on what I can check to diagnose this problem? Any tips are greatly appreciated! Jason

Hello fellow Albertans! We will be attending this years show with our 57 Century from Camrose, Alberta. We are really looking forward to this show. The last time we attended is when it was in Portland 9 years ago. To prepare for the journey I put on some new shoes, and did a fluid change. What I need to do is fix my exhaust valve!!! I am missing the stop that goes behind the plate/spring so when the spring heats up it rotates the valve to a certain point and stops in the open position. We are going to be leaving on the Sunday before the event and take our time driving through Montana and Idaho before arriving in Spokane on Wednesday. I haven't explored much of Montana before, so we are really looking forward to the jouney. I am looking forward to seeing everyone there, and we should set up a meet and greet for us Albertans or other Canadians. Jason

Thanks Adam, I'll take a look at the choke. I am just working through this issue backwards and still need to fix this heat valve.

Thanks for the tips. I do live in Canada where it is colder, but it is only to be driven when there is no snow on the ground. I was debating on removing it all together or tying it open with wire. In the image that I posted it looks like a bent flat wire made of the same metal as the spring. Part of my problem, in addition of the valve not staying open, is that I can not get it to idle on start without me staying in the car to keep it running, and then after 5min of warming up I can start to move the car, but if I don't keep on the gas it will stall. After driving the car for another 5min then it will run great. So I was thinking it was related to this valve not working properly (which currently just flaps around) and not warming up the engine faster because the valve isn't staying closed when cold.

Hello, Firstly, I love these forums as they have so much information, and had helped me out in so many situations. I have 1 57 Buick Century and my passenger side manifold heat riser valve is the issue. The spring and plate cover fell off and I have those parts, but I seem to be missing the "stops" that prevent the valve from free spinning. Right now I can do a continuous spin and rotate the valve 360 degrees by spinning the weight. What I need is the mechanism that stops the valve in the closed position when cold, and in the open position when warm. I can not find one on the internet, or even find a picture of what one looks like so I can fabricate one. Could someone please post a picture of the "stops" part for the heat riser valve on a 557/58 Buick? This would help a ton! Or have a link to where I can buy the part? I have attached an image for reference. Thank you, Jason

Hi everyone, Just checking in to see where I can find information on the exact location in Spokane and what the host hotels are? I am from Alberta, Canada and we attended the Portland National meet a few years back and we had a blast, and we are looking forward to this one. It so great to see so many Buicks in one location! Buicks are a bit of a rare breed around my area. Jason