Rogillio

I was gonna take the frame to the glass shop after I have it sand blasted and powder coated.

Finally got planer fix so restarted this restore. First if 5 blanks being glued up. I would have done all 5 but the viscosity of this glue is bad. I will get new glue tomorrow. Might have to scrap this.

Good tips! The tank looks nice.....of course, once it's installed on the car, it only partially visible.

It is back in but good tip. I can take it back for the POR 14. Thanks!

I was thinking alone the same lines with my OP. People haven't changed. There will always be people who wash and wax their cars and those that neglect them. My uncle (83 yo) said he owned the same model 1926 DB coupe that I cherish in 1955 when he was in the Navy with my dad. He said he paid $50 and it was a pos. It probably was as it was already 30 years old. Not a car you wash and wax often. But like someone posted, the cars in movies are owned by guys like us who take good care of them.

I spend a few days trying to clean out 90 years of gas sediment from my gas tank. I used degreaser, pressure washer, vinager, carburetor parts cleaner solution, filled with gravel and rocked back and for till my arms ached. Finally I took it to a radiator shop and had it boiled and they used their pressure washer. When I was convinced it was a clean as it was ever gonna get, I took it in to have it powder coated semi-gloss black. They sand blasted it to bare metal and applied the power coat material. When I went pick it up it was still in the oven and the entire place stunk from whatever residue was still cooking inside the tank. All was well until they took the tank out of the oven, and there was molten solder on the side of the tank that had melted out of the seam! Evidently solder was used to seal and/or patch holes. I don't know how hot the oven got but I've read powder coat at about 475 degrees. I read that solder melts at about 450 degrees. I don't know if the tank leaks or not as I am nowhere near ready to put gas in it. There was not a lot of solder and I don't see any visible holes so I am hopeful. The previous car's tank I sanded, primed and painted it. I wanted this one to look better and be more durable. Not sure that was such a good idea. I'll find out if it leaks. If it does, is there a sealant I can put on the inside of the tank to seal it? I really don't want to mess up the beautiful powder coat finish.

Sold for $700. I only paid $1550 and have another $200 in parts! I lose money on every deal......but I make it in volume. :-)

I paid $6500 for my first car and another $6000 restoring her. It's worth about $10k. The Crome would cost me another $2,500. Car would still be worth about $10k. So I spent $6k and bought another car! If/when I run out of things to do and spend money on, I may do the chrome. BTW, we've been on 9 Disney cruises and 4 other cruises. Family ALWAYS comes first. What's left goes toward hobbies...

Windshield off. Glass out. Minimal blood.

Wieldshield I bad cracked. Was gonna take odd remove glass have sand blasted and powder coated and put in me glass. Screws would not budge. Will let soak in Liq Wrench and see if that helps. If not I wi grind them off. Any tips on the glass? Can/should I get safety glass? Just take the frame to glass shop?

Here ya go Dave. I would not have questipned it but it is much different than the other 26 DB Coupe.

I'm watching The Godfather (for the 12th time) and looking at the vintage cars. I notice the cars are all 'perfect' and waxed and shined to a tee! Maybe people in the 40s took better care of their cars.

Ssssshhhhh! Don't tell my friends and family. I've been saying all along they are 1926. From now on I will just say their birthdays are in July 1926 and Sept 1926. I have that manual. I concluded earlier I had one car with a B and one with a C. But I'm looking at the manual and see "single unit electrical B engine. Both my cars have two elec units. But I do see the pix posted in another tread. Guess I need to read more.....

Thanks! I finally get it now. One of my Coupes is a B and the other is a C. This explains why the oil float moved. I know my car is a 1927 'model' but in my mind, it came off the assembly line in 1926 so I call it a 1926.... Anyway, thanks for. Oh, my other car's VIN is 765596. So a C engine. Where can I read about the differences in the B and C engines?

Anyone know what car this bumper belongs to? Pretty sure it is not a DB. Back one is same style. Doesn't look bad...but need plating. Don't want to plate if it is not original.

Twisted that bolt off...to get access to bracket bolt but other than that all is right with the world again and back to our brandies....,I mean our regularly scheduled restoration.

OK, no laughing. I suck at welding. I am 100% self taught thru trial and error....I'm still learning. Based on you post I did not cool it by dipping in water like I normally do. I let it cool by ambient air....about 100F right now. As long as it holds the bumper on I'm good. :-)

Evidently my question wasn't clear....at least it wasn't clear to PP. I know the head didn't come with this car.....I bought it from Myers. :-). But are there any records showing what block serial number went into this car serial number? This was sort of answered in another post about dip stick float locations. Both my cars have very close car serial numbers but one is a 5 bearing motor and one is a 3 bearing....based solely on the location of the float. So that leads me to believe ONE or both engines are not original to the car. Still not sure my question is clear....

Wow! That is awesome! The CNC will make child's play out of the compound cuts. I will cut one face on the bandsaw and then tape the scrap back to the blank, rotate and cut the adjacent face. Taping the scrap back gives a flat base to work from. I've done this with making cabriole legs. I would much rather have a CNC machine. My old wood has rotten ends so I will have to measure the car too to get a good fit. Keep us posted when you get started building the frame.

Way over my head brother. Nice thread though. I always learn something here! I plan a 26 engine rebuild.....maybe this winter.

I have an extra one (I think). There was one in the trunk. Both sides ate closed in. If it looks like it's an extra, if someone wants it they are welcome to it...just pay shipping.

Ok, mystery solved. Based on the serial numbers of my cars, one has a B model engine and the other one has a C model. My book of information is 1926 and doesn't have the pictures posted above. Guess I need a 1927 edition of the book.

Probably a good thing my planer is still not working as it has slowed me down. Notice the mortises are angled to account for the fact the the side rails are splayed. Lot harder cut than if the mortise was orthogonal to the edge.

Are you this obnoxious in real life too or do you put on a special kind of ugly when hiding behind internet anonymity?

Thanks. I may give that a shot.