Rogillio

Thanks. Right after I posted that above I googled magnaflux and found the same video. Love learning so much....

Rick, thanks again for the suggestion! The have the head. I just bought it for $85 plus shipping. My mechanic is having the other one welded said we would have the machine shop check it out and magnafluxed and then we'd use the best one and save the other one for a spare. No idea what magnafluxed is but it sounds cool. :-).

Thanks. I called and he is gonna go look and see if they have one and call me back.. I got my carb kit, plugs, wires and a few other things from Meyers but would never have thought to ask about the head. Fingers crossed.

My goal is to stay original on my 1927 DB Coupe.....but I don't know how I find out what is original? specifically 1. What were the running boards made out of? Was there rubber mats on top? Were they trimmed around the perimeter with aluminum? Mine are but I've been told the didn't use aluminum back then. 2. What material was on the roof? Mine has a kind of vinyl but IDK if that is original. Well, I know it's not original but is the material ok? 3. What material was the headliner? Mine is a silky material. 4. I read that some radiator shrouds were nickel plated and some were painted. Anyway to know what mind should be? 5. What did the door panel look like and what material were they? Did the have a pocket? 6. My seat is removable and when it is taken out, you can see into the trunk. Is this original?

It is out of a 1927 series DB Coupe, B series engine. The machinist has the head so I don't have dimensions. I'm just looking for a ball park number.....would it be closer to $500 or $1500..or more?

How much would that cost?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/301273996505?_trksid=p2059216.m1431.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT I bid $3500 on this car and there are no other bids. Looks promising. Thoughts?

Well, not totally lost but cracked really bad. How do I find a 1927 B series motor head? Mine has a bad crack and machinist is not optimistic he can fix it. How do I find another head?

The mechanic pulled the head off my motor. He found some small cracks but nothing catastrophic and he believe he can fix the small cracks be found as they are in low streess areas. He said there connector tube between the exhaust manifold and the carb on the other side of the block was missing and that area has dirt dobber nests, stones and such like a mouse has a home there at one time. This would explain the high condensation on the carb. He sent the head to a machine shop for repaid and flattening. </SPAN>

Sorry, name is Mike. The 4 Rogillios (wife and 2 kids) have been in England a few time on vacation.....holiday. London is the coolest city in the world....next to NYC. We have 3 cats....and 3 dogs....and 3 horses. Going on vacation is always a logistical challenge.

Cattery? Is that a cross between a cat house and catering service? :-) Sounds like a hoot. I think I need to buy you a lager the next time I'm in England? :-)

The only key slot on my car is the transmission lock. The 5 position switch looks original and mechanically there is no way to get from the "on" position without passing through the "off" to get to either of the 2 light positions. The schematic in the manual shows a 5 contact switch....as best as I can tell as it is very small print. Ray and Pete, does your car have a key for the ignition switch? Just to clarify, the off position of the switch breaks electrical connection to the coil so going from on thru off interrupts fire to the distributor. I'm wondering now if someone made a change to the switch from the OEM switch. If so the did a good job with the old labels for the switch position.

I understand....I am an electrical engineer with over 27 years of engineering experience. I think someone has put power cables on the car that were intended for a 12V system. I have some very fine, multi strand welding cables that have I may make cables out of.

Oh, and the mechanic said he'd machine the head....get a little more hp. And he use hardened valve seats so and make it so I could run unleaded fuel. He charges $70/hr flat rate.....and next month they are going up to $80/hr....so I guess I'm 'lucky' I'm taking it in now. I found a '27 DB motor, trans and rear end on CL for $750. It is seized up though. The mechanic advised me to wait....said if it's been seized up for a long time it probably is a boat anchor.

No, we found a hairline crack in the head. i found a shop locally that works on vintage cars and have the Dodge loaded on a trailer to take it in tomorrow. One of the cylinders was blowing a little oil so I was gonna rebuild anyway....now I have no other option than to tear into it. I bought this car as a project car and a learning experience but I with the cracked in the head and maybe other cracks,mi decided to let a professional do this part. I feel a little guilty....like I'm cheating. But I want to preserve a piece of history and not ruin it. Another subject....the mechanic suggested converting to a 12v system. I said I wanted to keep it original. He said it is totally reversible.....makes it easier to start and maintain.....light shine brighter..... I said I'd think about it....right now I just want yo get the motor running again.

Last night I started up my '27 Dodge. It ran for about 15 seconds then died. I looked at the engine and there was a constant stream of water flowing from under the carb....out from the intake manifold. Later, water and milky oil came out. Before starting it I had added about 2 gallons of gas. But since I thought the last time I added gas I put too much lead additive I did not add any this time.....so maybe the fuel was too hot? If the block is cracked, is the engine shot or can it be repaired? I have a line on another motor for $800 but it is ceased up and so is an "unknown".

My switch has the following positions: park (parking lights) - on - off - low beam - high beam So in order to turn on the lights, you have to pass thru 'off'. I was curious as to how this worked when the car was running so I tried it Saturday afternoon. When I switched thru off to turn the lights on, the engine missed for just a split second. I got to thinking about this and see no reason for such a swith lay out. Seems like it should be: off - on - park - low - high Oh well, maybe I'm a little late offering design improvements for a 1926 design.

Where can I find a discription of these model DB's cars? My vehicle is: A709768. But I was looking at a listing of serial numbers and mine was built July 1926 but is a '1927 series'. What model would it be?

​so cool! Thanks!

I love it! Thanks.

Very cool! Thanks!

For some reason, even the sepia photo mode does not look 'old'. Maybe becuase the resolution is too high? Maybe B&W mode would be better.

I will look. I do know there is a tube that mates up with a tub from the carb (at least I think it makes up) but didn't realize it goes to the other side of the block. The air cleaner is on my to-do list to disassemble/clean and understand. I did see there is an adjustment on the starboard side of the egine on the exhaust manifold that looks like it adjusts airflow....presumably to the carb?

Very cool. Thanks for the info.