jayspartanburg

Whoop whoop! I installed my other downpipe with the wideband bund welded in already and installed my gauge plate from my Daytona ( I couldn't find the one I made for the TC, but it's here somewhere..) I also cut 1.5 coils from the rear springs to level things out a bit. I took a pic of the Daytona gauge set up and I'll post it once my phone charges up a lil bit. I tried replacing the rear pads since the day was going so good yesterday and had zero luck. I cannot get the caliper to go in enough for me to slide the caliper back on. I loosened the lil allen screw, but still no luck. The car is currently sitting on a jack stand. GRRR. I had a line on some wheels and the seller vanished from the world, so as it is, I have no major updates. Hmm, I forgot to mention that I installed my AFPR, and pieced together some I/C pipes. I'm going to see if there is someone local that will trade me a same side intercooler for the opposite end one that I had in the Daytona. Hopefully this winter I'll have the turbo and head ready to make some good power. More to come..

If anyone knows of any in a junkyard, I'd appreciate the tip. My soft top has been patched up to embarrassing levels, and my GF should not be subjected to that. lol Also, if anyone has any tips on removing and replacing, that'll be helpful. Thanks. Jay

Looking for a soft top for my TC. I prefer Black or Ginger. Preferably within driving range of Upstate SC (29365). Me and my GF enjoy road trips, so a few hours isn't bad. Looking for something in decent condition. Thanks Jay

I guess I was being optimistic with the air pressure I was wanting to run before, but I think this is more of what I was expecting when I first put the bags together. the below pics are 0psi and 90-100. I was going to run NSRT struts but ended up picking up 1G neon struts at the JY on sale, and looks wise I'm happy with the results. The other one may take me 2 hours now that I have it figured out. Good thing is, I used the strut bags that came with the kit I bought off of CL for $200, and they fit the new struts perfect other than having to cut and grind the spring perch, so I have no more heat shrink holding air in .

Well damn.. I drove it around the block and it broke free pretty easily. Actually a LOT easier than last time. Drove around hitting the brake and clutch did it. Last time I had to circle the block a few times, lol I will never forget that one. So far so good. I need to get a battery this weekend, and I've already started installing some of the interior pieces. The compressor I have is not going to be good enough for what I have going on, so I'm looking to see if I can do some bartering because I'm pretty broke and still trying to make it to SDAC.

I got it started but I think the clutch is stuck to the flywheel again. It happened last time I let that combo sit. Going to see if I can break it lose tomorrow and go ahead and get the air compressor wired up. Have something to do tomorrow and we just popped open a bottle, so just are I wont get to do much. I probably wont update until I hit another "milestone"

Okay, so I have the clutch cable, pedal etc etc all done. I just have to replace the fuel lines under the hood and throw a battery in and it should start right up. I still have some more stuff to do to it, but I figured moving it in the yard should be more than enough motivation to finally get it back on the road. After I adjust the shifter cables, I'll install the walbro 255, big injectors and AFPR. Sucks when you lose motivation while working by yourself, but the small victories keep me pushing forward. Sometime in between all that I'll rig up the gauge panel to hold another gauge or 2, and get the rest of the interior all together. SDAC or bust!! I still have to wire the air compressor to the amp batt cable and connect the power and the ground for the switch box in the car. All the other airride wiring/hoses are all done.

http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/vehiclewiring/2/yeard/Chrysler.html I would use a chart from a similar car, they should be pretty close. If I wasn't working I'd be able to do more to find it.

I forgot to mention I have the sound deadner installed in the wheel well and the carpet back in place. I ran the air lines for the front inside the "rail" and into the trunk. I have all the wiring done except for the power/ground wires for the compressor. All the wiring for the valves and switch box are ran. Until I have the money to upgrade, I'll be running the small tank, but I'll be able to tee in the large tank combined with it via quick connect fittings for the cruise nights when I wanna do a lil more showing off. This weekend will be a big one (hopefully) as far as making progress. I need the little transmission grommet for the clutch cable that's in the pic below. That's the only thing that's stopping me from putting everything together. I have no idea where to get one so i'll put a wanted add in other forums..

They do Look pretty good on there. I've been considering 18x7.5 or 18x8 mesh wheels with some sort of white wall tire

Care to share a pic of what they look like on your car? Most won't like the direction I'd like to go with my car so I'll leave that alone. lol

Imma look into AWC. First it was E-85 or Meth, now it's a whole other thing with the I/C. If only there was enough money to have it all. Imma take some measurements and if it looks like one of the IC's I have won't work, I'll have to scrape together some type of budget to make all this happen.

Thanks for the info, I've never considered that. It's pretty much in real time, although after I converted the file format it may be a few frames off. I didn't realize that you anyone had commented on the video, so I deleted it and reposted it in my build thread. As far as handling, It hasn't been on the road since the swap. My goal has been at very minimum getting the front air ride working and car being to the point where I can start the tune. I'm getting close every time I pick up a tool tho. I'm going to copy and paste this in my build thread. JS

Thanks for the info, I've never considered that. It's pretty much in real time, although after I converted the file format it may be a few frames off. I didn't realize that you anyone had commented on the video, so I deleted it and reposted it in my build thread. As far as handling, It hasn't been on the road since the swap. My goal has been at very minimum getting the front air ride working and car being to the point where I can start the tune. I'm getting close every time I pick up a tool tho. I'm going to copy and paste this in my build thread. JS

That's just the front left corner..

I'm looking for an idea on aftermarket intercooler installs. I know my car is going to instantly outgrow it's intercooler within the next upgrade or 2 and I was wondering if anyone has some suggestions. Looking for something that can handle 400hp to be on the safe side. Pics of installs, dimensions from past builds, or any advice anyone has to offer would be nice. I'm trying to make it to SDAC this year in TN and I'll have my intake manifold before then, although I'm unsure if I'll have it in by then. Would be nice if I could get this part of the equation figured out though so feel free to throw suggestions at me. Thanks, Jay

subscribed.

Hopefully I'll find the time to work on it soon. Might have to run neon struts and some hard bumpstop if the air pressure/ height become an issue.

20psi 30psi 40psi 50psi 60psi 70psi 80psi 90psi

I thought about using factory bags for the rears, but with the price of new aftermarket bags and the fact the they're new I decided against it. ps the air management for the factory cars was never an option cause they all use small airlines plus they come with a lot of plastic parts. I didn't want paddle valves so i decided that i wanted elec valves.

Also should add when doing a bag over strut as I did, the actual strut choice is very important. You want to match the measurements to the bags full and empty heights so you can get the car where u want it when it's aired out, and so you have the full range of the shock. I'm hoping that the right ride height ( by air air pressure) is right in the middle of the shocks travel. A smaller bag would take more PSI to lift the same height then a larger bag. I have 2500 bags. Going to most likely run the same size in the back.

Yeah, that's 90psi. As far as psi/height, you normally want to set it up that way but not nec. at 80psi. There's a bunch off different factors. I based mine off of not wanting to die in case of failure!lol. I have it set so at 0psi, the oil pan is about 3/4 or so off of the ground. From what I've read most are happ between 40-75 up front and 25-50 out back. I'm going to getting the car road proven and find the optimal air pressure and base the back off of how the front feels. The back will most likely have some sort of bump stop so the carr doesn't bottom out and have a ride height thats even with the front. Also with only having gr's struts I probably would never ride as high as 90psi

Yeah!!!!!!. That's the car @ 90 lbs

I have 2 wraps of heat shrink on there and I'm feeling good about it. The hole on the lower bag bracket that slides over the strut is 52mm and the o-ring has a 50mm ID. The strut body was 50mm but with the double wrap it's just a shade over 51mm. It seems like it'll work. I'll get one side on tomorrow once it gets warm enough to get the snow and ice off of the TC, and if it works I'll get the other side done. If it doesn't work then I'll add one more layer and take it from there.