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Posts posted by 1940TORPEDO
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2 hours ago, joe_padavano said:
You simply need a drum/drum master with the same bore as your current master. There are lots of options in street rod catalogs, from 3/4" to 1 1/8" bore. Pick the one you need, fabricate a mounting plate, and you're good to go.
Thanks for the response. I was hoping to find one that would fit in the factory mounting holes but I'm afraid that will next to impossible.
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I have a 1940 Pontiac with a single circuit brake system. I would like to convert it to a dual circuit system. Running the lines should be easy enough but does anyone have any idea what master cylinder I could use?
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3 hours ago, Restorer32 said:
On the car in the third picture down you need to reverse the landau irons. They are upside down. The hump at the center goes up.
I bet there are more cars on the road these days that have them backwards opposed to correct.
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18 minutes ago, FLYER15015 said:
Allen,
You will have to pull the speedo and take off the back "can".
Inside you will most likely find a set of "fins" that rotate around a drum which is magnetic.
The fins are attached to the cable drive and are probably being "return to zero" limited by dirt or grease from the cable.
Not a big deal to clean this out.
HOWEVER, do not spray this area with brake cleaner, as it will take the numbers off the odometer drums.
Ask me how I know.
This opinion comes from me doing this fix on my '40 Buick.
Mine was grease that was pumped up the cable right into the speedo.
Too much grease in the cable assembly by the previous owner.
Mike in Colorado
I'm sure your '40 buick would be the same technology. I will check out the head unit.
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I have a 1940 Pontiac and the speedometer stays at 80 MPH while sitting still. When the car accelerates the needle moves and appears to move on scale with each speed increase (90 MPH = 10 MPH / 100 MPH= 20 MPH).
How do I get the needle to read 0 MPH when sitting still? I have looked in my shop manual but there does not seem to be a section that addresses speedometers other than the two gears in the transmission (drive and driven).
Thanks for looking,
Allen
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thanks everyone, excellent advice as always.
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3 minutes ago, 46 woodie said:
Why not use good old paint remover. I can understand not wanting to sandblast it, but if you can find a shop that does bead blasting, I agree that would be the way.
I could do that as I have a few cans. Reading the cautions on the back made me wonder. It gave many cautions concerning objects that it could be applied to. If it was steel or some other ferrous metal I'd have no objections and dive right in but with being pot metal I'm guess I'm being overly cautious.
I've always wanted a blast cabinet, now I have one more reason to get one.
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4 minutes ago, Restorer32 said:
We would do it in our glass bead cabinet.
Thanks, that's kinda what I figured. I've been looking at them on harbor freights website this morning.
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looking great
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I need to pull mine apart and check mine out as well as the horn works intermittently when pushing the button. When and if I get around to it I'll let you know.
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I just looked at the map and see you won't be going through Amarillo. Next time you'll rememeber the spray paint :-)
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I'm in Amarillo which is on Rte 66 and I-40. If you need any help I would do what I can.
I will be following your Journey, God speed
Allen Lowrey
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Thanks for the info.
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Beautiful, good luck on which ever class you choose
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Locomobile looks closer to me, body is closer to the rear fender and the front fender lines look much closer.
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TerryB, I received it an email that contained lots of pictures of older models in cold conditions. I thought that light was rather interesting myself.
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Take a look on ebay, they are on there. seller should be classicparts4u. use search "1946 Pontiac rocker"
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California Pontiac restoration
1-714-245-9800
OR
KANTER auto products
800-526-1096
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What is this car? Early 40's dodge? plymouth?
in What is it?
Posted
Thank ya sir. Good looking car.