cjmarzoli

Thanks. Yeah, I started that other thread! Still no answers on why mine is off though. Distributor shaft seems to be turning "faster" than it should per crank rotation. I will try to fashion a tool though.

Any luck finding one? I'd like one too. Everyone wants one but no one has one! Maybe if someone can locate one it can be borrowed with a security deposit!

Spinneyhill, do you still have the word processing file you created? If so maybe you could email it to me. thanks!

I set #1 correctly at the 11 degree before mark, i just expressed it incorrectly in my post. Thanks for clarifying.

Thank you. I have set the timing according to the book as Robert Engle outlined, with the exception of the point gap spec being .018 in my manual. The issue is when I turn over the ¼ turn after setting the primary points on #1, I cannot adjust the secondary points so that they just open at this mark in the rotation. The rotor has already cleared the #6 plug wire port and is heading for the next plug, and the points are full open. There is not enough adjustment to rotate the plate to close them. The high point of the cam lobe has spun too far prematurely so they are already open much more than they should be at the #6 mark on the flywheel. This is why I was suspecting the gear as it seems the distributor shaft has turned too far in relation to where I set #1. I may well have a vacuum leak and will check that system out but that would not cause the distributor shaft to turn too “fast” relative to crankshaft rotation. Trying to get ignition in order and then move on to carburation and vacuum.

I have a 1931 Buick Model 8-60. It has been stored for many years and I’ve gotten it running and am attempting to set the ignition timing. It was clearly not firing correctly to begin with. I installed new wires and condenser, disassembled and cleaned the distributor, and inspected the points (which look good). I’ve followed the procedure in the original shop manual verbatim. I can correctly setup Cyl #1 at TDC on the primary points but when I turn the crank to Cyl #6 (with the #6 mark on the flywheel in correct position), the rotor in the distributor has already passed the #6 firing position and the points are already wide open. You are supposed to adjust the secondary point plate so they have just separated at this position but there is not enough adjustment in the plate for me to close the points at either extreme of adjustment. It seems as if the distributor shaft is turning faster than it should be in relation to crankshaft rotation. I have attached before and after pics of my distributor and pics of the gear sprocket. There is some thinning of the teeth on the sprocket (in the center section) but would this be enough to throw the distributor rotation off that much? There is minimal rotational play in the distributor shaft. However if you rotate the shaft counter clockwise with your hand, there is some rotational movement and the centrifugal advance mechanism opens up. Is this correct behavior? After I set the timing the 4 plugs on the primary are burning nice and clean and the 4 on the secondary are fouling. The car runs better (but not well) now with the spark lever in the retarded position. It almost dies in the “running” position. Any tips or theories would be appreciated. Thanks!

I recently purchased a 1931 8-67 Sedan. I am new to ownership of 1930's vintage cars. Car has sat for many years and most of the fluids should be changed. Any suggestions as to what types of fluids should be used for: motor oil, radiator coolant, transmission oil, rear axle lube? Better to use "standard" green antifreeze or "extended life" green, or something else? thank you.

I recently purchased a 1931 8-67 Sedan. I am new to ownership of 1930's vintage cars. Car as has basically sat unused since 1992, although it has been started occasionally. What should i do in terms of the factory oil filter? Based on the manual, there is no replaceable element in it, the entire unit was replaced back in the day. What do people do now in terms of replacement? Is there a correct reproduction unit? Could I/Should I install a modern, spin on, universal oil filter in the circuit and how difficult would that be? thanks

I need to source a couple rim bolts for a 1931 Series 60 with 19" standard wood wheels. These are the bolts that attach the outer rim to the wheel itself. I have the nuts and brackets. Any suggestions? Is there anything unique about them or could i fashion them out of standard hardware store bolts? thanks.

The 8-67 is 179" in length with rear mount spare, bumpers on and no trunk. I know because I recently bought one and measured it prior to purchase to verify it would fit in my garage space. I know this post is aged but in case anyone was still wondering.... I have most other exterior measurements also if anyone wants them.