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cjmarzoli

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Everything posted by cjmarzoli

  1. Everyone is talking about alcohol free fuel, but to my knowledge everything in my area is E10 or higher. I am not aware of any alcohol free fuels available anywhere near where i live in Maine or New Hampshire. Is there a website to locate stations that sell it?
  2. My 1931 has operated for 89 years on its original mechanical fuel pump, which I rebuilt last year and which operates perfectly, so why would I want to add an electric pump now? For starters, it's not correct, and requires adding new wiring, lines, brackets, regulators, etc to my car. That's also why I don't install electronic ignition or radial tires on it. It adds needless electronic complication, is another component to fail, and potentially leave me stranded. Anything that can be accomplished mechanically vs electronically is a good thing in my book. As others have pointed out, it is also a potential fire hazard if improperly installed and used, and not turned off or on at the right time. Who wants to deal with that? Its easier just to prime the carb before starting or just crank it a few more times. I believe in keeping old cars as close to factory stock as possible.
  3. John, thank you for your input. Thank you to everyone else as well. I don' t have sidemounts so the larger size would not be an issue. That Packard is magnificent! Is that yours? What year and model is it? Original paint?
  4. I'm looking at purchasing a set of used Bedford Famous Coach tires (19"). They appear to be in good shape but of unknown age. Does anyone know when these tires were introduced? I have a picture of the code on the back but I can't determine a date sequence on it. The code is CYYA-P11V24 . Can anyone decode this date? Does anyone have these tires on a car? How do they age? The whitewalls are a bit dingy but may clean up. How do the whitewalls on them stand up over time? Supposedly there are no cracks in the tires and they are quite pliable. What should i pay for a good used set of these? Thanks.
  5. Steve- I was not aware parking lights were available in 1931 on Buicks. Please do send pics. I'm not keen on drilling holes in the tops of my fenders to mount them there, if that is where they are supposed to go. Also I only have one tail lamp and can't easily add a second OEM one, so was going to add two independent turn signal lamps for the rear. Thanks.
  6. Has anyone tried installing LED turn signal lamps (or any other 12v LED lamps) on an old 6v car? Planning on adding turn signals to my 1931 Buick. I know you can buy flashers for LED lamps. If run on 6v, will a LED lamp setup for 12v not work at all, be dimmer, or perform exactly the same as on 12v power? This is an example of a lamp I am considering. Thanks! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083W4X2QB/?coliid=I1KC8OVA58FV8D&colid=388H5YTS794KF&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
  7. Has anyone tried installing LED turn signal lamps (or any other 12v LED lamps) on an old 6v car? Planning on adding turn signals to my 1931 Buick. I know you can buy flashers for LED lamps. If run on 6v, will a LED lamp setup for 12v not work at all, be dimmer, or perform exactly the same as on 12v power? This is an example of a lamp I am considering. Thanks! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083W4X2QB/?coliid=I1KC8OVA58FV8D&colid=388H5YTS794KF&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
  8. Thank you all. I ran the car today. It had been 3 days since I drove it and the bowl was empty before I started it up! My smart idea was to cap the vent on the carb lid after I got done driving the car to prevent some evaporation. I found a small rubber cap that fit perfect over the vent dome. Well, it didn’t work. I placed it on after my excursion and immediately heard a hissing noise. Then gas started oozing out of the top bowl gasket under the cover and dripping out of the front air horn between carb and air cleaner. I quickly removed my cap but it kept dripping slowly out the air horn for at least another 10 mins. I’m not sure if it would have dripped out the air horn (front of carb) had I not capped it, but if it does, that is where some of my gas is going. Not sure why the bowl was pressurized after I shut the engine off enough to pump gas out after I capped the vent port on the bowl cover. Temperature Expansion? ================ I love the WD-40 stick and mustard bottle idea, I will give that a try!
  9. Thank you all. I ran the car today. It had been 3 days since I drove it and the bowl was empty before I started it up! My smart idea was to cap the vent on the carb lid after I got done driving the car to prevent some evaporation. I found a small rubber cap that fit perfect over the vent dome. Well, it didn’t work. I placed it on after my excursion and immediately heard a hissing noise. Then gas started oozing out of the top bowl gasket under the cover and dripping out of the front air horn between carb and air cleaner. I quickly removed my cap but it kept dripping slowly out the air horn for at least another 10 mins. I’m not sure if it would have dripped out the air horn (front of carb) had I not capped it, but if it does, that is where some of my gas is going. Not sure why the bowl was pressurized after I shut the engine off enough to pump gas out after I capped the vent port on the bowl cover. Temperature Expansion?
  10. Thanks. I did installed a backflow preventer in the line just behind the carb and it didn't help the issue any.
  11. Ben, we've all been there. Not in that exact situation, but doing "bonehead" things, then scratching our heads later! thanks. Hubert, thanks for the excellent writeup. I will check my float level. On the '31 the mixture adjustment is on the top rear of the carb so I don't think I have that packing nut on the bottom but i will verify. There is a bolt on the bottom that covers a jet port I think but I don't believe it is leaking. The '31 does not have a vacuum tank either, it uses a mechanical fuel pump on the side of the engine so that is not a factor in my case.
  12. Did gas in the 1930's not evaporate? People had to depend on these cars so you'd think the carbs would hold gas for a few days at a time at least. When an electric pump is installed, does this supplement or completely replace the original mechanical pump? Where on the car would the electric pump typically be mounted? Str8-8-Dave, yes I have the drain tube on the air cleaner. I would prefer to avoid installing an electric pump if I could prime the bowl easily by hand without taking the bowl lid off. I'll keep brainstorming and let you know if i find a solution and you do the same, thanks! Maybe a very small plastic tube that could be inserted through the bowl vent. I'll have to study it again. I forget how small it actually is.
  13. I have a 1931 Buick model 8-67. Has the marvel updraft carburetor. If the car sits for more than a day or two, the bowl becomes virtually empty which makes it difficult to start as the carb bowl must be filled by cranking and cranking before the engine gets any gas. I have a loop in my fuel line to the carb and installed a backflow preventer just behind the carb so where is the fuel going? I don’t think it could possibly all evaporate that quickly. I don’t see any evidence of it leaking out or running out the front. Anyone else had this issue? Does anyone have a good method for pre priming the bowl when it does empty? There is a very small vent hole on the top, perhaps there is a way to inject fuel through there. You cannot just dribble it down the top like you can on a modern downdraft unit. Thanks!
  14. I have a 1931 Buick model 8-67. Has the marvel updraft carburetor. If the car sits for more than a day or two, the bowl becomes virtually empty which makes it difficult to start as the carb bowl must be filled by cranking and cranking before the engine gets any gas. I have a loop in my fuel line to the carb and installed a backflow preventer just behind the carb so where is the fuel going? I don’t think it could possibly all evaporate that quickly. I don’t see any evidence of it leaking out or running out the front. Anyone else had this issue? Does anyone have a good method for pre priming the bowl when it does empty? There is a very small vent hole on the top, perhaps there is a way to inject fuel through there. You cannot just dribble it down the top like you can on a modern downdraft unit. Thanks!
  15. Further notes: I have removed the fan belt and spun the fan by hand and no noise. Will try it again and start it up. I’m quite certain that is not the issue. I have already dropped the oil pan (no sign of rust) and cleaned out any sludge I could get to. Have also removed rocker shaft, completely disassembled it and cleaned everything on it, blew out all lines feeding to it and from it. I’m leaning towards it being the timing gear or the generator gear/bearing, though I did put my scope on the generator directly and it did not seem to be coming from there. As pointed out, the water pump is not driven by the fan belt and it is quite far back on the right side of the engine so is nowhere near the area the noise is emanating from. The thing that puzzles me the most is that the knock is not there immediately at startup, it only seems to show up once oil pressure has risen. Has anyone pulled a front cover to look at the timing gear? Can it be done with the radiator still on the car? Can the engine be run with the cover off? thanks!
  16. Thank you Matt. I wish i could report that is went away as RPM's increase but it does not. It just gets faster along with engine RPM. I've watched a few Videos on '31-32 Buicks running on youtube and to be honest most of them sound noisier than mine, though I could not hear any of them making this specific noise. I thought straight 8's were supposed to be quiet and refined? Maybe not Buicks?!
  17. Video album link: https://photos.app.goo.gl/NRnkuW83CiLx9n3M8 My model 60, which was recently started after sitting dormant for about 26 years is making a couple noises I don’t like and I can’t seem to ID. There is a light “rapping” or “knocking” noise near the front of the engine. The strange thing is the noise is not present on a cold start up. (See first video which demonstrates this- the knocking noise starts at about 22 secs into the video) It takes about 30 to start appearing. This would make me think it is NOT a function of low oil pressure as the oil pressure would be lowest at startup and there is no noise then. There is also a noise in the front that is very hard to make out and hard to describe but it is not a constant noise and almost sounds like something “slipping”. (not a belt, brand new fan belt). I used a stethoscope and the noise does not appear to be coming from inside the block. You can hear it most on the front lower cover and bracket that goes over and serves as the front left mount bracket. You can also hear them very clearly thru the radiator if you stand in front. (you can hear the “slipping” noise in the 4th video from in front of the radiator if you listen carefully) I’m also getting an irregular exhaust note with a notable “burp” or “chuff” every few seconds that does not seem right. Sometimes there is a brief white-ish or gray-ish puff when these chuffs occur. (see exhaust pipe video) If you click on this link it will take you to a google photo album with a few videos of the car running. You can also hear a slight exhaust leak and some upper valvetrain noise (I assume this valvetrain noise is typical). Please try to disregard those noises. Any input much appreciated thanks! I am a nervous to drive it much with these noises, but I’ve driven about 150 miles and no issues. Oil pressure is 25 lbs at low idle and 30 lbs at anything above a low idle but never reads higher on the dash gauge.
  18. Hi Ben Thanks for the comments. I agree with your assessment on the proportions of my car. It is hard to beat the look of a circa 1930-33 4 door 6 window standard sedan. Even though they were usually the cheapest and most “common” body style I like them the best. There don’t seem to be too many like mine that haven’t been “gussied up” over the years. I’ve seen pictures of some that are two tone bright metallic colors with wide whitewalls and add on chrome accessories and they look silly. Mine is probably how most of them looked back when they were new or late model cars, so it has a certain charm like that. My tire are “multiple size” tires. They say “4.75, 5.00, 5.50, 6.50”. They are clearly closer to the smaller of those two sizes than the larger. The 60 series came with a 6.00 tire but I think I’m going to go with a 6.50 tire which the 80 series came with and that was essentially the same car with the same wheels on a 6” longer wheelbase. My assumption is that my wheels were originally painted black as they are now, but I think they would have been a smoother finish with a painted red stripe on the spokes. I think someone has sand blasted them in the past and accentuated the grains in the wood (oak?). My plan was to sand or strip them and then fill in the grain and repaint them black. I do not intend to leave them natural because I generally am not a fan of natural spokes and I don’t think it would be correct for the car. I also don’t intend to disassemble them as the seem solid. My quandary is what to fill the grain of the spokes with to make them smooth again before I paint. Alternatively I could go to a different style of wheel (wire, disc). I also like the Olds you picture better with the painted wheels.
  19. My car has the standard wood wheels. They are in good shape but very drab and the spokes are rough due to the grain of the wood. Also my tires are old and too small. I’m considering my options, which are: restore these wheels and get new tires, or upgrade to another style wheel and possibly procure a set with good tires already on them. It’s my understanding that the three other types of 1931 wheels used the 5 lug style hubs so I would have to change hubs to run those wheels. How difficult is that to do and how many parts have to be changed? Would the brakes or drums have to be changed? Would any other brand GM wheels from this vintage be “plug and play” on my Buick? If I restore my existing wheels, what would they have looked like when new? My thought is that the spokes would have been smooth and painted black and had a painted pin stripe on them (red, to match the stripe on my all-black car). What is the recommended way to smooth out the spokes? Sand to bare wood and fill with what? (wood filler? Fiberglass body filler?, spot putty?) Or just build up coats of primer and paint and sand? Would the optional trim rings that go behind the hub caps work on my wheels or do they only fit on “trim ring” Artillery wood wheels? If so, anyone have a source for them? If anyone has a set of 5 lug wheels and hubs, be they wire, disk, or artillery, with or without tires on them (prefer with), I would be interested. Thoughts, advice and opinions welcomed! Thanks!
  20. Don't know if you made a buying decision yet but all things equal, I would vastly favor the car with wires and high speed gears (do you know the ratio?). With standard gearing (4.00 or above) these cars will really wind up at cruising or highway speeds. (anything above 40 MPH). I can't imagine driving one daily but I guess it would depend on the particular car and how well sorted it was. What did you end up buying, or are you still weighing options?
  21. I forgot to mention in my last post that after a test drive AFTER cleaning the rocker arm there was a little more oil splashed on the underside of the valve cover and the valvetrain, but not much. The oil cooler has been addressed. After i first go the car running, i noticed antifreeze in the crank case oil. I took the cooler apart and determined there was a leak in the core and the coolant was getting into the oil. I did not see any evidence that oil was getting into the coolant however. I searched online and found nothing on repairing the core or replacing it. I sandblasted the inside of the chamber, eliminated the core, removed the bottom oil input plate off the core and used it as a mount and fabricated a new U shaped pipe out of copper for the oil to run through. So the intercooler is still functioning but instead of the core it just has a pipe inside the box. No leaks and no signs of mixing since the repair. I was getting the same oil pressure readings before and after the cooler repair.
  22. Update: I removed the rocker shaft, completely disassembled it and cleaned everything. Rockers were very tight on the shaft. Some of them would barely pivot by hand, the remainder were quite reluctant to pivot. Must have been consuming a lot of HP just to move those rocker arms. Did not find any extreme sludge or blocked holes but a small bit of goo. Blew air both ways thru rear feed line (input entering right side of block by filter) and front line (going down to timing gear- one way blow on this one). Everything seemed clear. Soaked in gas and blew out holes on rocker arms. Submerged naked rocker shaft in trough of gasoline for an hour and shook and blew out. Some black chunks came out. Re assembled. Started car up and drove. Not much change. 25 PSI oil pressure at idle, 30 PSI at anything above idle. (On factory dash gauge) Is this within the normal range? Oil filter is plumbed correctly. Did not remove “T” fitting out of block to oil filter and gauge, nervous about damaging it or the oil pressure gauge line. Pretty much everything else has been checked other than the main feed lines off the pump in the sump. Am I correct in assuming that if the “T” fitting was severely blocked the oil pressure gauge would not be getting a reading? A concern is that I do have a light “knocking” noise in the front end of the engine while running. It is not audible immediately at startup but starts after about 1 minute of running. I used a stethoscope and was not able to determine its source but it does not seem to be inside the block and others have listened to it and felt it was not a main bearing or internal knock. It does not sound like valvetrain noise to me. Any ideas as to what this could be and if low oil pressure is still a concern? Thank you.
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