ricosan

I agree. ricosan

Hey All, Can anyone help me identify this O.D. unit. It is on a 1932 Marmon. I haven't been able to engage it.:confused: ricosan

Hey guys, Here's an update to the end of this story. I sent my speedometer to "Bobs" last month. Good turn around. I got the speedometer back in less than 2 weeks from the time I shipped it off to Bob. It works great but it was very pricey! I still haven't had a chance to lubricate the cable. ricosan ricosan

Thanks for all the information Guys. Jon - I haven't noticed any gas leak problem but I will pay closer attention. No unusual gas smells. Could it be that this problem in design was remedied sometime over the past 80 years? My carburetor is mounted just like the attachment that I posted. I can't get a good view of the back side without taking it off. I used a mirror and I can see something on the backside but it looks like a word stamped there. Is the number located on the back side? Commodor - Thanks for the heads up. I'll be bidding. ricosan

Hey Guys, I've looked for the number on the 3 sides that I can see but I see no numbers. I wrong about the information stamped into the casting. It says "1 1/4 Duplex" It may be on the back side. I will get a mirror and see If I see anything. I believe that this was the original carburetor for the car. This car has the "Big Eight"/125HP engine. Here is a photo from the carburetor section of my "Marmon Big Eight Information Book" published by the Marmon Motor Car Company.

Hey Ed, It's from a 1932 Marmon. It's a Schebler Model - S, 1 1/2 Duplex. It would be fantastic if someone had experience with a schebler rebuild, good or bad I would love to hear. I'm also interested too in people's experiences with any pre-war antique carburetor rebuild/restoration no matter the make. All of the rebuilder I've looked at make bold promises. How do I tell the good guys from the bad guys? ricosan

I have an early '30s carburetor that I would like to have rebuilt. I'm not asking anyone for recommendations but I would like to hear from anyone who had a good a good experience with a particular shop. I've read a few good things about "Karb King" but their website looks to cater more to post war carburetors. I could be wrong. Any help would be appreciated. ricosan

Good morning everyone and thanks for all the information. I successfully put the manifold back on the car yesterday and started it. It doesn't run smoothly but it didn't run very smoothly before the manifold re-installation. I only had 4 crush rings in the head when I installed yesterday. I'm checking with restoration supply today. Mine look like the rings with the slot. ricosan

Good morning all, Today I am reinstalling my 1932 Marmon 8 exhaust/intake manifold. I read that you should use graphite between the gasket and the head so that the manifold can "move" under heating/cooling conditions. Is this true or should I just leave it just the way it is or is there some other product that will do the same thing yet offer help in getting a good seal? All comments welcome. ricosan

Good morning Nickel, That's a good idea. I'll try to see where it goes and take some Photographs too. I was hoping that someone had this option on their car. Was it only on the 8-125? I'm not a fan of the free-wheeling aspect. I do like how it gently re-engages when gas is reapplied but the feeling of barreling into a corner is uncomfortable. I've been looking for a manual for the 1932 8-125 but I haven't been able to find anything. I checked the AACA library and didn't find one. They have 20 items and it's mostly advertising and stuff the sixteen. There is very little about the 1932 8-125 that I found. I'm going to do another search for just the free-wheeling information. I just took another look a the handle and the cable. Looks like the cable disappears into the tranny area. ricosan

Hey Nickel, I don't have an owners manual. The closest thing I could find was "The Marmon Big Eight Information Book" and it doesn't reference the OD transmission. I notice that there are two handles under the dash. The one on the left side of the steering column opens the hood ventilation system and I have another handle to the right of the steering column. Does this control the engagement of the OD? ricosan

Good Morning Everyone I have a 1932 with what is described as a free wheeling OD transmission. I've experienced the "free wheeling" part but I haven't found out how to engage the OD. Can you disengage the free wheeling function? That's a lot of car to stop with just mechanical brakes. ricosan

Good morning Guys, Thanks for the help. It's certainly tempting to just replace the rod and forget the butterfly plate. But I hate to have a button on the dash that is inoperable - does nothing. Then again I'm afraid to put a plate that may interfere with smooth operation. That said it looks like when the plate is closed (dash button pushed completely in) it should have the plate turned to the right toward the front of the engine where it would rest during normal operation. A cardboard template here would help with getting the right shape. Pulling the knob out will bring the plate back toward the rear of the engine turning it in a counter clockwise direction. The plate can't be very large since the rod is offset to the right, making this a shorter distance to the edge of the heat riser chamber. This looks to be about 1" mol. When the knob on the dash is pulled out this 1" plate would be perpendicular to the engine. I think I had better visit the welder before he tackles the project so that we can both be sure that it will work when reinstalled. ricosan

Hey Greg, This is my '32 Marmon with the "big eight" engine. The top of the shaft is connected to a cable on the dash and is manually operated. When I opened up the heat riser, I found only the shaft. I would like to have the butterfly plate fabricated and welded back to the rod. My problem is my butterfly plate was eaten up many years ago and there is no evidence of it left. When you pull the knob on the dash, the shaft is turned counter clockwise. Should it rest up against the right side toward the front of the engine and when opened to help with cold starting it would be perpendicular to the engine?

Hey Greg, This is my '32 Marmon with the "big eight" engine. The top of the shaft is connected to a cable on the dash and is manually operated. When I opened up the heat riser, I found only the shaft. I would like to have the butterfly plate fabricated and welded back to the rod. My problem is my butterfly plate was eaten up many years ago and there is no evidence of it left. When you pull the knob on the dash, the shaft is turned counter clockwise. Should it rest up against the right side toward the front of the engine and when opened to help with cold starting it would be perpendicular to the engine?

Good morning everyone Yesterday I removed my exhaust/intake manifold from my straight eight. Fortunately there are no cracks in the top part of the exhaust manifold where it is attached to the engine but the flange that attaches to the exhaust pipe to the Manifold is in pretty poor shape. It is with the welder now. My question is this. Should there be a gate of some sort here? What size should it be?:confused:

I removed the manifold today. It came off pretty easy. In the heat riser there is this rod which is supposed to turn back and forth and do something. I this rod missing a flange to divert the heat? What does it look like. Is this a necessary part? Do I need to have one made? I am taking the manifold to the welder in the morning. It looks worse than I thought. Yikes!

I removed the manifold today. It came off pretty easy. In the heat riser there is a rod which I think is supposed to turn back and forth and do something. Is this rod missing a flange to divert the heat? What does it look like. Is this a necessary part? Do I need to have one made? I am taking the manifold to the welder in the morning. It looks worse than I thought. Yikes! ricosan

Good Morning Nickel, Yea, nuts are brass. It looks like they are all easy to get to and I've sprayed them with PB Blaster. My biggest fear is reinstalling. I've read that 15 - 20 lbs of torque is appropriate for exhaust manifolds. Unless I hear something different, I plan to heat the manifold with a propane torch and then take the nuts to 10 lbs and then increase from there by 1 lb increments until I get to 15 lbs. I'll then start the engine and see how it sounds. I'm going to try to photograph the process if I can.

Well I've found that exhaust manifolds are as scarce as hens teeth. Fortunately I found a welder who has had extensive experience welding and braising cast iron. He says he can do it with either brass or welding rods. Which do you think would be better? This weekend my plan is to get the engine up to operating temp and then loose the bolts that hold the intake/exhaust manifold against the head. Is there any particular order that I should undo them? What do I torque them to when I reinstall? Any other precautions would be appreciated too. ricosan

Kaycee, I spoke to my welder yesterday after I emailed him a picture of my manifold along with measurements. He says that my manifold will fit into his oven, a must have for this operation. As soon as it thaws out down here in sunny Florida. 23 degrees this morning and supposed to be colder tomorrow but by the end of the week temperatures will be back into the seventies. I hope it doesn't shatter into a million pieces. ricosan

Wow! What a great resource. I saw lots manuals and just basic information that I'm lacking. I'm going to go through and order some copies. I wish you could order online. I don't have a FAX anymore. BTW what engine is this? It says that it's a 145HP.

Trimacar, All good points. Expense of repairs makes sense. Even today parts are readily available for fords and Chevrolets and cheap too. I need an exhaust manifold for my Marmon but can't find it anywhere at any cost. The Marmon company going out of business probably helped to hasten the deaths of less spectacular models in the lineup and would explain the survival of the Sixteens. Alsancle, Thanks, yes I bought this Marmon 8-125. She is a beauty but needs lots of TLC. The engine is solid and doesn't smoke but the drivetrain may need some work. Hard to tell until I get the manifold problem worked out. ricosan:)

Hey Gals and Guys, I've been a member of the Marmon Club for a couple of months now and an owner for less. Marmon information is hard to come by but I've tried to devour any and all information I can find. The answer to this question has eluded me. I've asked a few club members but no one has an answer. My question: As there are 300 to 500 Marmons known to stillbe in existence, what happened to the other 249500? That's a awful lot of cars to disappear. Other marques seem to have fared much better. Were the Marmons melted down during WWII? ricosan:)

My bad. I checked the resistance from the coil and it was good. I checked the spark plug wires and sure enough I had four wires crossed! I still have a rough spot that mostly goes away as it warms up. Next up compression check. ricosan