1956322
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Posts posted by 1956322
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So what ended up being the cause for the smoking?? Looks great!!
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What speed is it idling at?
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If the idle mixture screws have no affect then most likely the passages are clogged
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The only difference I’m aware of which should have no real impact regardless is the heat cross over is different.
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https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F142440768202
This is the guy... No experience with his ac kits but his brake kit worked out pretty well
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I know you said must be short bed but I have a 66 style side long bed for sale a lot has been done...352 4 speed.. Let me know if at all interested
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Hell I think I still have the output test on the Wilson one.. That one I ran for a year before converting.. The other one is a beck arnley that was on the car when I got it.. Drove it for a few years with that one.. Swapped it out for the Wilson one cause I thought it was making noise.. It wasn't lol.. They're just sitting around
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Ouch man I'm sorry... If you want I've got two pretty fresh rebuilt gens that I did actually use and they both worked fine before switching to the power Gen.. You can have for the cost of shipping.. Although they are heavy...
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Any idea where to get a new pitman arm if needed?? The only thing i can find is the idler arm
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Hmm I’ll have to jack it up again and look seemed like there was free play before hitting springs thanks for the advice
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It does have some adjustments but with care in the air there’s play where the pitman arm goes into the center link
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Sorry 56 special
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Sooo i have play where my pitman arm goes into the center link.. the center link is adjusted as tight as it can go but the play is still there I’m assuming the center link has to be rebuilt at this point?? What kind of new hell am i getting into to rebuild it lol
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I can vouch for the flying Dutch man.. Bought one from him for my 56 322 about 5 or 6 years ago.. Daily driven no problems yet
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4 hours ago, Ben Bruce aka First Born said:
Perhaps I am a simple man. I installed the ONE wire alternator. Hooked up the gen wire to the regulator to the post on the alternator. Moved the Bat wire from the Bat post on the regulator to the same post as the alternator wire, thereby bypassing the regulator. At the Amp Gauge, moved the incoming wire from the regulator to the outgoing post, thereby bypassing the Amp gauge. Installed a volt meter, which necessitated the ONLY new wire, connected to ignition run position. Changed all the bulbs. Used available resistors for the radio and fuel gauge. New 12V battery , same size and in the same place as original. Has worked for ten years and 17,000+ miles.
Ben
I don't think that makes you a simple man I think that makes you better then most that attempt this conversion!!
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I've got a healthy one.. Really rather sale with the whole master cylinder though.. Was on my daily driver till about six months ago...pm me if interested
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1 hour ago, Ben Bruce aka First Born said:
Converting to 12V is not rocket science and is completely reversible.
Ben
It's definitely not rocket science but yet I almost never see it done even remotely correctly.. I'm talking one or two colors being used on everything and just wires running everywhere yet things still aren't working correctly lol
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If you're planning on keeping things at least mostly original there is no need to convert to 12 volt.. Just remember you need much thicker battery cables then your average parts store carries.. Think 00 gauge... If you're thinking electric wipers or ignition then 12 volt is a must.. You can get both 6 volt alternators and electric fuel pumps so you can modernize kinda sorta a little without converting.
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I'm just bumping my own ad.. Just have these parts will probably put on eBay in the next week or so if no one on here is interested
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If the 56 switch is the same.. It looks the same..I do have one
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I'll be curious how the kit ends up working out
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But the other side is worse lol
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Definitely going to try
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Discount tire stripped mine and sure could use a healthy one
FS- Love to Love or Hate to Love - 1957 Buick !!
in Buick - Buy/Sell
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Low is a separate gear.. it always starts out in high in drive but there is another gear to choose so it is technically a two speed.