highcking

Well, I tried the gasket first and the shim on top, no sealer. Bad seal, lots of leakage. Also I found out the at shim I used (new) was razor sharp and sliced open my finger. In light of what I pointed out above, that the gas passages don’t line up between the manifold and the AFB carb, it’s not clear to me what the benefit of the shim is.

Adam - thanks. I have two AFBs both the same. But as you can see, the rusty Rochester has the groove in what you’d think is the “proper place.”

Yes, I found a diagram in a Cadillac shop manual that shows a sandwich of (starting from the carb base) metal shim, gasket, heat dissipator plate, gasket. I’m not going with the plate as it would misalign the carb with other stuff. The manual advises some gasket cement between the carb and shim. I plan to use Permatex #2.

Agree. The choke on the unit I received did not meet your criteria. Excellent article - I printed it out for future reference.

On the fault choke issue ... The seller (via eBay) replied, “you need to adjust the choke a little more rich due to the climate difference between California and Virginia.” In other words, he suggests adjusting the choke when the outside temperature changes. I tried to tell him why that’s a ridiculous idea on a supposedly rebuilt carb. I told him that the choke plate should always close on a dead cold engine unless you’re in Death Valley. Also, fast idle wasn’t set right either because when I started the car “manually” so to speak, there was no fast idle, probably because the choke plate opened too far. And they claim they test the carbs on engines before selling! His eBay listing says “no returns” but he’s offering a swap which I reluctantly accepted. I wonder what I’ll get in exchange. I have a 100% rating on eBay over 3,000 transactions, so in a pinch I think they would back me up. Word to the wise: don’t buy the Carter AFB for 57-58 Buick for sale on eBay.

Jon - got it. I verified this morning that there is a leak. Spraying the base with carb cleaner test positive. Rag over the air intake test positive. In both cases idle and vacuum climbed. I have another problem. The remanufactured AFB I bought some months ago from The Carburetor Center for $600 seems to have a defective choke adjustment. After multiple tries the car wouldn’t start this morning in cool 50 degree weather and on checking the carb I found the choke plate hanging open. The choke is set correctly at index, yet I had to flip the plate with my finger to get it to close fully. On the AFB I just pulled off, sitting on my bench, the choke at the same index setting snaps fully shut under the same conditions. I plan to message the seller this morning. For that cost it should be set right. Thoughts?

Thanks to all for the replies! Jon - I’m not sure what the last part of your message means about checking for leaks. Are you talking about just eyeballing the fit of the gasket to the mating surface? Or some other method?

John - my Roadmaster is ready for the road too. Speaking of speedos - I tested my Bob’s rebuild the other day against a GPS speedo. Oddly enough, it reads a full 5 mph LOW. I forgot to test the Speedminder which is set at 65 and the country road I was on is strictly 55. I’m running with correct bias ply tires.

Follow up on the wipers. The Product Service Bulletins pointed me in the right general direction - the assembly outside the body. Turns out the spanner nut holding down the cam assembly was not tightened down. The wiper blade rides on the cam and the looseness allowed it to wobble. That effect is transmitted to the cable mechanism. I don’t think the cam business was one of Buick’s better ideas.

I will try that! My shop floor seems to be level but your test is a good one.

Hah. Made in Taiwan. I've confirmed it's 10-24. But at least one of the gauge installation kits (gasket and screws) I have is 10-32. I curse not having kept the old tank. The "manufacturer" should either supply screws or put a label on the tank!

Robin - that thought has occurred to me as well. No screws were provided with the tank. Not easy to check as I have no metric screw assortments around. I'll either have to buy a set or haul the whole tank into the hardware store! It would be a terrible thing for Fusick parts to do - but I can't rule it out. Bill

He’s an excellent and experienced mechanic, but naturally doesn’t encounter 1958 Buick Roadmasters every day. Whatever we agree on to do, he does it very professionally for sure.

Extremely helpful, thanks. I’ll follow up tomorrow with those ideas.

No, the Taiwan tank from Fusick does not come with screws. They seem to be 10-32 but I’d think they should just turn all the way with slowly increasing drag.

Rusty - yes, the rear is uneven too, about 3/4” low on the drivers side. I also noticed that one of the old rear springs (not yet recycled!) had a rubber spacer stuck on the bottom. Is a spacer both front and rear on the drivers side the best way to go? Bill

Question on the machine screws holding the fuel gauge to the tank. I have a replacement tank and gauge. I plan to leak test the tank and gauge before installing on the car. I tried running each of the gauge screws into the threaded holes in the tank, using fingers only. What I generally found is that the screw would go in easily for a few turns and then balk. Going further would have required screwdriver torque. Is that the way it’s supposed to be? I’m certain that damaging the threads would guarantee a leak for sure. Bill in Luray

Old-tank, No, the left front sagged from the start. I assumed it was a very weak or broken spring. The removed springs were all intact but probably dated to 1959.

I will check that. By appearance the rear looks level but I’ll measure at the frame.

Good point! I've located the rubber spacers online. Probably two will be needed. Since the car will not be driven like a road rally car, I think the spacers will be safe to use.

Rusty - Yes, the frame is 1" lower on the driver's side front than the passenger side at the same location. Rear end frame heights are very close to the same. Springs are a matched set, brand new, installed with correct rubber pads. Car was aligned after all work was done, by very competent shop. I'm going to let the best mechanic in the shop take a hard look. I'm hoping spring shims or spacers will even out the 1" difference.

My current project is a ‘58 Roadmaster. Recently the car got new, correct bias ply tires, new springs, new shocks, many new front end parts, and alignment. Problem is that the front end STILL does sit level. Measured from frame to floor behind the front wheel wells, the drivers’ side sags about 1”. Several body cushions are missing, and others are badly worn. Is that the likely cause? Can shimming the drivers side spring effect a temporary improvement? Bill in Luray Va

The frame height is uneven. Measured at the front where the frame is level with the floor, the drivers side is 1” lower which accounts exactly for what I see. Likely cause? Remedies?

I'll do that tomorrow - I have the "frame height chart" handy from the body manual. What are the possible causes/remedies for (1) frame height left and right is the same and (2) frame height left and right is different?

My 58 Roadmaster now has new, correct tires, likewise springs and shocks. Ride height is good but the driver's side slumps about one inch at the front, as measured at the top of the front wheel wells. The car is missing some body cushions which I plan to replace this spring. Is that the likely cause of this slump? From the back, the car looks level. Bill in Luray