CatBird

The problem is the wiring is incorrect. The communtators were in good shape, not ground down to thinmbles! I am pretty sure that the wiring is the problem. The Shop Manual is not exactly clear about schematics. I remember when having the s/g apart, there were large brushes at both ends (good and spring tension - I think). It seems the rear end is where the starter brushes work there by a tapered cylinder, when the pedal is depressed allow the starter brushes do engage. So I guess that the generator brushes are on the front of the s/g. Not sure I remember if there are "extra set of brushes" in the front of the s/g. Am I to assume that the brushes in the front spin the connecting shaft from the s/g, that goes under the carb, to the distributor, and the shaft should be spinning when the ignition switch is on? It made a loud sound when spinning, when I first got the car. This loud spinning is not audible when the ignition switch is on, but when the starter does work, I do have the same "spinning sound" I used to hear when the ignition switch was engaged - before depressing the starter pedal. Ratcheting clutch seems good. Sorry for the confusing dialog. Not sure how to better explain. Would appreciate schematics for wiring. I have heard there is something called "Dykes Manual" that has a lot of info about early gasoline engines. If someone has a link????? Thanks

Thanks for your additional help. Been busy the last few days replacing exhaust manifold gaskets on my 1933 Packard. Adjusting the valves and some tuning. Obviously longer in taking the time I had planned! <grin> Having to replace a few studs. and then will get on the starter / generator on our 1920 Cadillac. Thank you again! Will let you know on the s/g, using your ideas!

Don't have a crank. It does start the engine when I step on the starter, when it engages. Hmm, Nothing when I turn on the ignition switch. I did rebuild the s/g. Maybe I have a wire incorrectly connected? Is there a manual explaining the s/g schematic?

Delco 1920 Starter/Generator question. When you step on the starter pedal, it feels as though it is blocked. Doing it several times, sometimes it works easily. I have rebuilt the s/g new brushes, bearings, rewound armature. Lubrication is correct. The hollow shaft where the bendix gear moves. Everything seems ok. When the pedal works, it does so easily. Otherwise it completely blocks. Seems like the teeth are hitting each other stopping from meshing. Other times is does mesh. I did try to rock the engine with the trans in gear. See if it would realign the starter gears. The engine moved enough to move the flywheel. No success. Wonder if the alignment is off. Could the gears are blocking. Been suggested I shim the s/g Any ideas?

Hope to begin working in it today. Try advancing the timing and go from there. I really appreciate all you help!

Tom, I will try your ideas I also think the timing may be really retarded. Will try that first and then you ideas about the points I have sketchy info about setting the timing Never saw a distributor like this. How DO you set the timing? I am much more familiar with 1950s V8 Cadillacs.

1947 V12 Lincoln Continental --- I cannot run more than 5-6 miles overheating. Also minor backfiring and loss of power at any range Not able to drive in third gear below 40mph Radiator flush Pulled both thermostats IR thermometer shows passenger side head at about 220 degrees Driver side at 200 degrees

I could hide a 12v battery in the trunk and run power to the 12v windows. A small battery charger and top it up every thee weeks of driving.

In my recent purchase of 1947 Lincoln Continental cabriolet, some used hydraulic windows are in my parts box. Windows do not work. Further inspectin, the windows have been replaced by aftermarket electric window lifts 12 volt. 15 amp inline blade fuse was blown. "Specialty window Products" for the mfgr says it neeeds 20 amp and won't work on 6 volts anyhow. Any ideas? Try to get hydraulics working/reinstalled? Power inverter go from 6v to 12v for the windows, only? I can raise and lower the top easily, don't need hydraulic top. Thanks for help, Bill

Thanks. I was thinking I needed to pull the oil pan, again, get a pump and install one. Lucky the previous owner had installed this. OK, when I pulled the pan, I checked the main bearings and they look very good. After putting everything back together, and was just a small drop of oil at the rear of the pan. I read this is normal from the slinger. Next questions, 1. the oil pressure is about 30 on the gauge, but it drops off until zero when hot. Even carefully revving, stays low on the gage. What should I do? I did replace the oil filter and new oil 5w-30w synthetic blend, not full synthetic. Should I get a better weight oil? 2. Engine does puff out some oil vapor through the breather. I have read that the crankcase needs better breathing. How?

Thank you Peecher. Can you tell me if or not I do have an HV Pump? Or do I need to pull the pan and replace my pump? Bill

Have some conflicting opinions. Do I have Standard or HV Oil pump? My oil pan does not seem to have been modified for deeper, but the pumps have more to do with screenshot are more related to Ford flathead. Probably a v8. Screenshot below View of HV Melling 15 Oil Pump Our oil pump - Stock or HV?

The passenger head is about 20 degrees hotter than the driver side. P side at about 220degrees and driver side at 200degrees.. IR Thermometer. Dash needle at pegged TEMP. Radiator cap at 4lbs. Oil was at about 30 cold idle and down to zero at hot idle. No oil pressure up at revs from idle. Upper radiator hoses have individual thermostats. Could hotter on one side be a timing issue? Seems obvious that two six cylinder separate engines joined at the common crank. Checking thermostats in hoses might be sticking on one side? What other reasons one side hotter? One of associates at Boos thought my pump is HV. We do put it back in. Can anyone give me a best answer from my picture above? Should I buy a Melling M-15? I should have a V12 Engine Manual today. I had two misfires and was sent two manuals that were about fuel pumps only.

Made a test drive and the float began working, however the oil pressure shows zero, so we shut it down and pulled it back into the shop and will look further. Just got the car and sorting it out.

Finally got the pic to upload. Is this a high volume pump?

We got the reinstall done on the oil pan. It was very difficult. Put in 5 quarts of oil, replaced the filter. The oil float stays at the bottom level, the indicator. Did some research and found some people suggested another quart when changing filter, but the float level does not float <grin> Thought that the float was filled with oil, but since the pan was removed for a couple of days and no oil leaked from the float. It also felt light enough when hand lifted from underneath while the pan was still off. The indicator rod moves freely. We had pulled the float indicator up with as the pan was replaced so it would not get caught or bent. Was worried about overfilling oil. No leaks from reinstall. Any ideas about the float? Also appears we have an high volume pump. See picture. error uploading pic, "There was a problem processing the uploaded file. -200" Tried at different sizes 89kb tom 184kb .

Thanks. We will move the crank further. We should have done this before we removed the starter. We do have a tool that grips with the teeth in the flywheel, There is no nut on the harmonic balancer, as on other cars, like GM, and we need to move the engine with the flywheel.

Want to be sure it is correct so we don't EVER have to do this again! Know about pulling the oil float up. Want to be sure to get the right gaskets and everything in place. Thinking about inspecting the main bearings, maybe with plastigauge.

Got it loose, but a good friend worked on it. I have never heard such cursing from this guy. Would make a sailor blush and this is not him <grin>. I hurt my back trying to start a Model T and could not help. Thanks for the help. Whew!

yes!

Will try later today. Thank you, Bill

1947 Lincoln Continental V12 Need to remove oil pan. Dropped wishbone rubber ball. Removed starter. Bolts from oil pan. Dropped exhaust from manifolds . Pushed wishbone down as much as safe. Stuck here. Oil pan is loose. What next should i do? Best place to buy oil pan gasket set? I can get an entire engine set for $107 at RockAuto

Got a copy from them. Thank you very much!

would know more. pics and history. PM? Bill