CatBird

What should I watch for?

As far as driving, the Brewster drives, stops and handles as well as our 1935 Auburn (Also a sweet car). Much better in all departments than our 1933 Packard. And we really like the Packard, I am not knocking this. Bottom line is that I don't care what is under the fantastic exterior, as long as it does its job. And it does. The engine is quiet, powerful and starts in seconds. All-in-all I love the car. And anyone who is in Atlanta, come on by! Otherwise, I just got an invite to Hershey Concours de' Elegance on June 18, welcome all to come see us. Seems they like the car, also and it is, as I know, the only Ford recognized by the CCA as a "full classic." Maybe Ford knew that would happen? Grin

The Omaha looks ok, might modify it to make a platter turntable, but might be another, better idea? I also like the concept of the railroad turntable but on a smaller scale.

Getting some great ideas,

The Brewster Ford sold for $3500 in any body style. Many of the Brewster/Ford buyers stressed the fact that they were "cutting back, they are driving a FORD now". They didn't say that the RR and Duesenberg were parked in the carriage house for future service. Ford was readily available in cut-away or chassis form, and they were much more serviceable than most any other make. The chassis were NOT bought from Ford Motor Company, they were bought from Universal Ford in Long Island. This was the same chassis that the dealers sold to other custom body companies for building custom trucks, advertising vehicles, ambulances, hearses, etc., which was a standard item for Ford dealers to get. Most likely much more difficult to do with most other makes."

These two stood together for many years. Now, reunited,

I am building a garage/collection and am in the planning stage, so I don't need to modify a concrete floor. I will be pouring one. My average cars are about 19 feet long and weigh about 5,000 pounds. Average 19 feet overall length. Looking at some Hovair bearings. I am also near Georgia Institute Of Technology science labs with state of the art machine tools. Laser printers, water/garnet cutters, CNC lathes. One of those fine young men can build me a turntable. Still looking for a design. Might have a larger turntable and balance a car with weight distributed, This CAN be done. Thanks for the ideas. Bill

I am building a car collection garage/display/museum building and want to have a turntable for automobiles. I see them for sale for about $30k to $40k would severely stretch my budget! I have local fabricators, including myself, versed in equipment building, metal, electrical. Any plans or ideas for DIY, or a used Turntable? I have heard events where displays have been sold after an event? I am in Atlanta. I can also provide heavy equipment shipping. Appreciate any info. Bill

Just acquired a 1934 Brewster Town Car. It was in Truett Cathey's collection (founder of Chick-fil-a). Looking for information about this. I saw Dons Neat stuff blog and have sent him pictures and info. . That it was owned by Lily Pons, a famous opera soprano. Don says it was built 5-22-1935.

Just acquired this car. Posting in a new thread.

Just acquired an 1848 Brewster Victoria, perfect condition, restored 1995 by the Amish. It was in Truett Cathey's collection. Looking for information about this. I acquired this along with a 1934 Brewster Town Car. Thought it would be cool to have two rare Brewsters. Will be posting the car in another thread

Cord, Thanks for the link!

Dave Michell and others. I have a 1933 Packard Victoria convertible (Dietrich) with Trippe lights with the bubble balancers. See pictures. Don't know if original. My 1935 Auburn has driving lights, but seem nothing fancy. Since the Auburn was a lower priced car it may have come with these(?) If so, should I keep them or upgrade to Trippe lights? I like the Trippes better. But the Auburn lights are rounded forward, like the headlights. Does match very well. ?? I would like to add driving light(s) to my 1920 Cadillac Phaeton. What would be appropriate? Probably not chrome as chrome was added to cars in 1924. Would I be looking for nickle, brass, or painted steel? Should I look for one or two ovals? What is a "ditch light"?

Jerry, not at all upset with you. Not in the slightest. The S/G is driving me nuts. My Cadillac manual shows a 1919 Cad with Type 57. I have a 1920 with a Type 59. The 1919 ignition switch diagram is different. I have the AACA Library sending me Type 59 Service Bulletins. The whole s/g is a very simple device, yet I cannot find the key. I keep thinking I have an answer, but no joy. I have talked with a couple of old car people who will bench test the S/G. So, I will pull the damn thing and take it to them.

LET ME BE EMPHATIC BACK! <grin> I understand "MOTORING" 1.) The armature spins. It disengages from the ratcheting clutch. It just hums along on it's own-ster. YUP, it DID when I stepped on the pedal. I do know a hawk from a handsaw. NORMALLY it should only hum on when the ignition switch was turned on by itself. But the pedal DID motor it. CAPS needed? I have rewired this little s/g so many different ways I do not know how I managed this, but I DID! Pedal made it spin. Really. Then rewired it all over again, and no spinning. The only way to engage the starter to work is to put the car in gear, rock it until the engine moves slightly, then stepping on the pedal does engage the engine. Except for that previous consternation where I know that some-freaking-how know the armature has the ability to spin on it's own when I somehow made it work through some weirdness of rewiring and stepped the pedal. Alternate universe? Carl may think so. Shhhhh. What should happen, and it ain't, is that the spinning armature should spin when the ignition switch was flipped down. But it won't. Next idea is to pull the hood, pull the s/g with an engine lift and try some bench testing. There is an answer.

Mentioned above that the generator does not charge. The ammeter does show a draw when ignition is turned on. At one point, the s/g did motor on when I stepped on the pedal, but no start. But stepping on the pedal SHOULD NOT start it motoring! Bottom line is that the s/g should motor when the ignition switch turned on. The starter/pedal is not in any way connected to the ignition switch.

Should the generator need to be polarized since it was rebuilt? If so, how?

Not sure about Buick, but our 1920 Cadillac, 1933 Packard, 1935 Auburn, 1947 Lincoln Continental are positive ground 6v. Looks like Buick has been neg a long time. Not sure how much this matters. We look for neutral or hot.

This would be a good idea, but the s/g is REALLY heavy! Leaning into the engine, reaching down in the valley between the cylinder heads, getting it up and at the same time bringing it forward to clear the cowl, was all that two strong men was able to do. Also the reverse re-install? Yeah, have to remove the hood also. None of these are a super-big job, but a PITA if we could get the wiring correct. It should start very well. There is a wire in the wrong place.

The s/g is not showing a positive charge. The two terminals on the front of the s/g (#3 and #4) are hot ALL the time! They are hot even when the the wires are NOT connected. Could something be back-feeding from the s/q? The starter does work when the pedal pressure if I rock the car enough to engage the bendix. Otherwise the bendix is blocked by the teeth. My original problem cam from the bendix was not lubricated on the sliding shaft causing the bendix not able to disengage from the flywheel, causing the armature to be spun at a high rate of speed, throwing out the winding wires. Romaine did a very good job rewinding it. They tested to be sure the starter and the generator functions were correct and operational. I did have the wiring in some configuration and the s/g did spin, not when the ignition switch was connected, but only when I stepped the pedal. But, then the starter motor would engage. The pedal would make the s/g spin, but would not engage the starter! The ratcheting clutch is free and operational. The commutators are close to factory specs. This freaking thing is relatively simple. I am just missing something wiring not connected. I REALLY appreciate ALL your help. Please hang in there with me. I owe you all a cold beer! I am beginning to think ir needs an exorcism! I did start it and drove over 30 miles Wednesday. Never made a hiccup one time, the rest of the car is doing well!

Kevin, Your drawings are slightly different than mine. Are your terminals are in the rear of the s/g? I tried jumping both with hot and just got a large spark. I will post pictures of my s/g, also the back of my ignition switch. FWIW The amp meter does not show a charge. It does show a discharge when I turn on the ignition switch and a greater draw with the starter engaged. I did start the car by putting it in 3rd gear and rock the car back and forth, the gears starter/bendix/flywheel meshed and the starter started very well using the pedal. Armature still does not spin. The car is running very well. I was able to drive about 30 miles today. Yay! Jason. I will try both diagrams tomorrow.

Ignition switch seems to get it's power (in) from #4. What do you mean about "on your s/g, to ground"? We are working with a 6v positive ground system. In your second question, when it starts, i did not check the ammeter. Will do next time it starts.

Yes, the same proceedure. I am back to square one. The armature does not spin when the ignition switch is on. WHY? The gear teeth bump into one another, sometimes I can get the car to start by rocking it in gear first. The wring seems correct, brushes correct, spring tension correct. the s/g looks great. Looks about new. Is there a really good schematic for Buick I can see??? Somewhere something is incorrect. Just can't find it!

EXCELLENT! Just downloaded copies and bought the book on Amazon!

Latest symptoms. When I turn on the ignition switch, nothing, if I depress the starter pedal I can hear the armature turning, but will not engage. Does not spin the shaft connected to the distributor. I assume it should not, I guess that once the engine is running, the ratcheting clutch allows the armature and operate as a generator instead of a starter. As the armature spins the Ammeter does indicate a very small low draw. Somehow is wired wrong. I suppose the armature should only be spinning as it is should only be doing so when only the ignition switch is engaged. At least that part is working, albeit the switching somehow it is improperly connected. Ok, ok. It would seem the process is that it SHOULD work would be, 1. The ignition switch is turned on. The armature spins, like it is doing. 2. Depress the pedal and the bendix engages the starter drive and the flywheel thereby starting the car. Best I can tell, the brushes and spring are good. Everything looks right. I am certain that the wires connecting the s/g from the ignition (combination switch) are correct. Something inside the s/g is not wired as it should be. Please look at the enclosed diagrams. Please have a look at the enclosed diagrams.