earlsworkshop

Thank you Hugh. AS can be seen in my photos. the gas gauge on my 24 Buick is unreadable. But, I have a wooden paint stirring stick to check the level. 8-)

Thanks for the info Larry.

I realize this is an old thread, but since I am a new old Buick enthusiast, I've got to ask. I have a 1924 Buick 24-33 and the gas gauge face & needle isn't even visible through the glass. How do you remove the gas gauge from the gas tank? Does it require removing the tank or can it be taken off with the tank in place? I don't want to learn the hard way and damage the darned thing, it's hard to find many parts for a '24 Buick. Any advice will be appreciated.

I have a similar issue with a Title and car not matching the ID numbers. My Dad and I just bought a 1924 Buick from a gentleman in Washington. It is a 4 cylinder coupe and the Data tag on the firewall identifies it as model 2433. The serial number on the frame is 1121305. The serial number on the engine block is 1110682. However, the WA state title, registration and even the previous owner's insurance paperwork has VIN 2719. And it is Titled as "ANTIQUE" and was issued with Horseless Carriage license plates. We don't know where Washington got that 4 digit number, as I have not found that number anywhere on the car. My state (AZ) will generate a new ID number for re-manufactured or home built cars. I bought a wrecked 1975 C10 truck and cut the frame to make a pickup bed trailer. I made sure that the original VIN was visible on the trailer tongue and I took it with the title for the truck to the Motor Vehicle Department and they issued a new VIN tag and a title as a 1987 Home Build Trailer. (That was the year I built it). I have a friend who built a T-Bucket hot rod and they titled it with a new number, they wouldn't accept the 1917 Ford title he bought online because the car was scratch built, not an original part on it. So, I have no idea what Arizona is going to do with the '24 Buick when I drive it down to MVD next week. I'll let you know.

Glossy clear powdercoat will protect the aluminum from tarnishing, and it's a tougher finish than most all clear paints.

This is an interesting topic because I was just looking into the same thing. This is the center of the wheel of my 1936 Dodge D2 4 Door As you can see, there are spring-clips in the center for the hubcaps. This is the outside view of hubcap listed on Ebay for a '36 Dodge This is the backside view of hubcap listed on Ebay for a '36 Dodge This is the outside view of hubcap listed on Ebay for a '34 OR '35 Dodge This is the backside view of hubcap listed on Ebay for a '34 OR '35 Dodge From what I have seen, it's nearly impossible to tell the difference between the '34, '35, or '36 hubcaps unless you turn them over. At any rate, these hubcaps are NOT chromed. They have a thin skin of stainless steel that is crimped all the way around the plain steel hubcap. They can easily be polished to a chrome-like shine. However, you can not remove any dents by hammering on the inside. To get any dents out, you have to uncrimp the skin, carefully tap out any dents, then crimp it back on. Not impossible, but very time consuming.