CHAD THOMAS

being a brougham body, the rear wheel opening is at most goes 3/4 around the tire, really just over half way so finding the center line that way is tough. Hopefully tomorrow morning i will venture out and measure my buddies Auburn and figure out the length from cowl to center line of the rear axle. Finished up two body mounts this afternoon, Now I know you are thinking " how can this guy build body mounts not knowing where the body should sit?" Well, I am not doing any "damage" to the chassis, so just extending existing body mounts that will go out far enough to catch the edge of the new body. I did get some metal cut for the rear body mounts but cut them over size and cannot continue until i get the body placed correctly on the chassis. these are the rear mounts and the body is built for a frame that has a kick up to clear the rear axle and my frame does not have that plus my frame is approximately 4 inches narrower than the frame meant for the body. As far as the hood fitting, I dont have one so have to make one anyway, besides I want the wheels to look centered in the rear fenders. anyway, i will get some more pictures up before the weekend is over.

Center line on the frame simple enough, it is complete. The body however is more of a trick. I have found 1 profile view of a brougham and can get a rough approximation based on window opening and window moldings. I have found that all the bodies shared on thing, distance from firewall to center line of rear axle! Ok, so you are wondering, ok? where is this guy going to get the measurements? Luckily I have a friend who has a few Auburns 10 minutes from me so hopefully this weekend I will venture over and get the measurement needed to continue on with body mounts!

frame will be stock, suspension, axles, wheels, engine and tranny, etc. Front clip will go with frame, body different company. as I get further along and add parts and pieces it should slowly become clearer for you guys. keeping if vague right now as friends give me greif about not getting anything done ( been working on this for 5 years so far ) so want to surprise them with a major leap forward later this fall. but till then need some moral support.

Just as an FYI, Frame does NOT match the body. Keep guessing.

Had some time in the shop today, starting to fabricate some needed body mounts. should have pictures up by the weekend. I slight hitch though...... Trying to find the center of the rear wheel opening..... Suggestions?

OK, 1 bad tie rod end, passsengers outer. Have to check the parts car and see if they are usable. HOWEVER, checked the tire pressure and they were low, got them up to 38 and 80% of the shimmy was gone. Does not fix bad tie rod end, but that is easy enough.

you are dead on with the body.

Curious what brings you to that conclusion?

Just got the frame back from the sandblaster, and had to hurry and get it indoors before another round of storms. Garage space is tight and no room for the body unless it is on the frame, so with the help of a floor jack and a couple of dolly's off we go.

Hope someone can help on an alignment question. In looking at the specs for the caster in my Motors Manual it calls for a setting of -7/8 degrees. this setting was for series 80 +90 series only, every other series was + 3/8ths. 39 model cars shared the -7/8 ths so did they change king pin arrangement and where it was measured to come up with a negative degree? It just does not make sense to me to have a negative caster on rear wheel drive car. The car drives fine until above 50mph when if you hit a bump or uneven road the front end starts a bad shimmy. any help is appreciated.

Last night I closed of the filter in an effort to increase pressure with negligible difference, maybe a 10% increase. A little disappointed in that. Hopefully it will clear enough this weekend i can drive it and get it hot and see what kind of pressure i have. Previously when hot, pressure was 5-7 lbs top. cold was 25. Of course the car calls for 40 weight in the summer which is now obsolete......

no, not Buick. Bigger breasts.

F&J, Where did they plumb the oil pressure gauge in on your nash? according to the pictures of the engine compartment mine is plumbed correctly bus it makes no sense to me. According to the pictures mine should be plumbed on the outlet side of the oil filter which then drops straight into the pan...............

yes, very skilled. Car was out of a junk yard in Severy Kansas. I think dad paid more to get it put back on its wheels from where it was lying on the passenger side and pulled across the ditch where he could hook to it with a tow bar than he paid for the car it self. If I am not mistaken it was a total of 25 bucks. Now the windshield and all four doors were cut off about 6 inches above the belt line leaving the rear quarter intact. The passenger door was opened all the way around with the spare tire resting in the middle of it while it was on it side. The windshield frame was hand carved out of balsa wood and then cast out of aluminum. hood ornament is not correct for the car but we both liked it and no one else knows what it is from so no issues there.

SO, Got the old girl out today decided to put some pictures up. She has not been on the road for 5 plus years...... Needs a little TLC.

I read Dean H postings. Man does he do nice work. Not sure what my bolt pattern is to be honest, I know when it was drug home from the junkyard Dad used the spare tire of his mid 30's dodge pu. I have the same issue with with trans and bell housing cast as one. I do have a 41 Nash OD transmission, not sure if I can adapt the OD unit on in place of the free wheeling unit. My thoughts were a Mopar axle, I have extra extra backing plates i can adapt on the the axle just wondering if anyone else has been thru this? I dont want to cut up this unit, if I could find a spare I have seen people take modern 9" Ford rear ends and weld the center section in, leaving the ends original.

A little history on this car, been in our family since 1960 having come out of a junk yard in Severy Ks. My father finished the restoration in the 70's and it has now come to be under my stewardship. My question is this, has anyone found an easy replacement for the ring & pinion? I am up for swapping the whole axle if needed. I am not looking to overdrive the car by anymeans but it gets really busy at 50mph. Currenty running 7.00 x18's on it. I believe the bolt pattern is shared with Mopar products. Any suggestions?

$1200.00 Saint Louis Mo

I have a hood, radiator shell, head lamp buckets and matching horn buckets. Very good shape except head light buckets, they both have a hole from a pick axe. NO RUST.

1936 dodge tail light housings. very nice shape. also ram emblem for bottom of radiator shell, nice but some pitting. make offer.

I have scrapped out a 1941 series 90 parts car. It had already been badly stripped when I got it but what I have from it include: rear axle, rear shocks, front control arms upper and lower, both front fenders, radiator support, master cylinder, clutch and brake pedal assembly. front hubs. make offer.

OK, So I assume this is part of the whole assembly? I have a 40 series 80 that I bought a 41 series 91 parts car and stripped it clean so I have both clutch and brake pedal attached to a common shaft I believe. If you are interested in the assembly let me know and what part of Colorado are you in?

Looking for an older restoration or an original. running or not. let me know what you may have.

St. Louis Mo.

7.00 x 18 lesters.