keithb7
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Posts posted by keithb7
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I decided to put this together for my YT channel yesterday afternoon. The topic was worthy of a lesson for many:
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How about a single coil trying to keep up with 2 extra cylinders in a V8 compared to a 6. Also higher compression ratios means harder to jump the spark plug gap. 8 cylinders means less dwell time. Less distance between the adjacent points lift cam peaks. A larger voltage differential between the two battery posts means more pressure to move the electrons. In theory, likely meaning more electrons will soak and saturate the ignition coil in less time, when compared to 6V. A higher-voltage charged coil collapses, creating a higher secondary voltage to jump the spark plug gap. Which is harder to do under higher compression pressures within the combustion chamber. Again I am hypothesizing. However it seems logical to me that a V8 overhead valve engine with higher compression ratios would benefit from a 12V ignition system compared to a 6V system. Air conditioning and more powered options aside, they probably had to up the voltage to 12V for a number of reasons indeed.
Just a guess.
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I am generally not a supporter of 6V to 12V conversions as my old flathead 6 engines start and run fantastic on 6V.
However, does the V8 hemi often struggle with only 6 volts to crank it over? I have never owned one so I am only hypothesizing.
8 quantity higher compression cylinders. Overhead valves. Larger engine displacement . I imagine there is no room for anything other than perfection of the ignition & related electrical system, fuel delivery and state of engine tune. Otherwise you'll drop the 6V down quickly and there will be no starting. Colder temps. Weaker batteries. Carb heat sink and related issues. Incorrect timing of spark. Valve seal-ability. Fuel pump performance. Choke or not? And much more can lead to harder starting issues. I can't see a 6V equipped V8 tolerating much of this for long
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Do you need assistance with basic TDC measurement and confirmation?
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An interesting point. I have a 70's Snap-On Dwell/RPM guage. I use it often on my 6V positive ground old Mopars. The tach will not work if I attempt to wire up the tool while the engine is running. If I wire it up while the ignition is off, then start the engine, the tach works perfectly. I was stumped for a while about the tach not working. I gave into the fact it was broken. Then a friend enlightened me about hooking it up before starting the engine. It's been great ever since.
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If the engine runs, using a timing light, as you rev up the engine watching the timing marks. Works well if you get a paint pen and mark 0 degrees, painting it white. Easier to see. As the engine revs up the timing mark will advance. Hold the throttle steady at a higher RPM, the timing should hold in the the advanced position. Proof if the mechanical advance is working or not. I assume the owner may have done this, and the timing is not advancing? I agree with setting engine to #1 TDC. Pull the distributor and dig in. You'll note there are two springs on the mechanical advance weights. They are not identical. One spring is lighter, less tension. It opens earlier at lower RPM. The other spring is thicker, more tension opening at a higher RPM. The fist time I saw the two different springs I thought someone has must have put in an incorrect spring, as they were not the same. I was wrong, they are supposed to be different.
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This one here is very similar. It will do just fine.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/232368228294?epid=528692283&hash=item361a39c7c6:g:vb8AAOSwB0xdPku1
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I run a stock mechanical pump and I have a 6v electric in my 1938 Plymouth. The electric pump is used to prime the fuel system after the car has been sitting a few weeks. Its much quicker than putting maximum load on the 6V battery for longer periods, cranking the engine over to activate the mechanical fuel pump. I also use the electric pump to give a good shot of gas if needed, pushing through any vapor lock that might occur. It’s great for that. It doesn’t happen often but when conditions are right it can happen. The electric pump works great.
Other than these two examples, the stock mechanical pump is doing all the work. I’ve rebuilt a few of the stock pumps. Its not hard. I have several spares for parts if I need them. They are not hard to find. Find an old crusty one for cheap. Rebuild it.
My electric pump has two wires. The pump is isolated from its mounting bracket. Just hook it up to the positive ground system it’ll work great. Black wire to power source. Red wire to ground. I’m multiple years into using mine. Works great. I have a sprung momentary switch feeding voltage to the electric pump. I doesn’t stay on unless I am holding the switch on. Its safer that way. In the event of a fire or accident you don’t want the pump staying on, constantly pumping raw fuel into a fire.
This one seen here is my 6V pump.
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In general, the public knows very little about old cars. Who preferred what model car is even more obscure. Any old 20’s-30’s car is often just labeled a “gangster” car. It means they like it, and are noticing it. Don’t take offence. Its a term of endearment. If anything, blame Hollywood for the infamous “gangster” car.
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My original 1959 Fender Bassman amp. Its hi-tech compared to my ‘38 cars. This week I built a new speaker baffle board for it and installed new grill cloth.
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Cold oil is thick. Hot oil thins out. Maybe when cold the oil pump is able to make enough pressure to force the hydraulic actuated shift. The wrong oil in there gets too thin when things heat up. Then maybe it cannot reach the psi needed from the oil pump. These transmissions are picky with their oil. FYI the tranny oil pump spins at the speed of your drive shaft. It only moves oil when your drive shaft is spinning.
Rusty is 100% right on the idle speed. I experienced this personally. Too high, when you take your foot off the throttle to allow for an up shift, it’ll either be delayed or won’t shift at all. I am doubtful this is your issue as that would likely effect shifting at all times. Hot or cold.
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I suspect it is a 251 ci. What year was the S15? Should be a 25” block. Stock bore 3 7/16”. Stroke 4 ½”.
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Did we sort this out directly Rondo? I know I helped someone recently with a few pics.
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The clutch pedal over-centre spring adjustment comes to mind. Have you adjusted it before?
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Removed from ‘53 Plymouth. Fits Mopar 2 door convertibles. Salvaged parts for a project. Motor. Needs rebuild.
2 jack screw systems. 2 actuator cables. Harness and switch. More details available if needed. $100 USD for all plus shipping.
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On a side valve L-head flathead engine: When any piston is at TDC on compression/power stroke, if the valve lash is set properly, both intake and exhaust tappets for said cylinder can be wiggled up and down. How much up and down wiggle? The valve set clearance amount. This phenomenon does not occur when at TDC of exhaust/intake stroke.
How do we access the tappets to confirm? Remove the valve covers. Grab the tappet with your hand and wiggle it up and down.
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Mopar part # 1450643. Fit 53/54 Plymouth Cranbrook, Belvedere, Savoy. Dodge Regent, Crusader, Kingsway, Mayfair.
$250 US funds includes free pre-paid shipping within Continental USA, Alaska and anywhere in Canada.
More photos available if wanted.
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The 1938 Plymouth came with a 23” long, 201 ci engine. 201,218 and 230 ci displacements were available in the 23” length block.
Chrysler also produced a 25” long engine. It was available as a 218 and 226 ci engine in Canada 3 ⅜ bore. These were in the Canadian built Plymouths and Dodges only. They also offered the 237 ci, 251 ci and 265 ci options in Desotos and Chryslers in the USA and Canada. It had a 3 7/16 bore.
You should be aware as many cars have had their engines replaced with non-factory optional engines for a specific model. For example my 1938 Plymouth had a 25” 226 engine in it when I bought it. I rebuilt it. Bored it over from 3 ⅜ to 3 7/16. Now it is a 237 ci.
You may notice that the 23” block was offered in a 218. The 218 was also available with the 25” block. They are very different inside. Internal parts will not interchange. Cranks, rods and bores are not the same.
The 23” 201 crank is considerably smaller than the 25” long crank. Smaller bearing diameters as well. I have attached an image of the two cranks for comparison.
If indeed you have a stock 1938 Plymouth engine you’ll want to be looking for manifolds and gaskets from any 23” long block. Additionally, many trucks for many years had the 23” long engine.
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Thanks to a fellow member here, a 1910 Russell, with knight sleeve valve engine.
Coolest for sure in my books.
I have driven and operated just about everything made by Caterpillar. Excavators. Trucks. Forestry machines. Loaders. Dozers. Skid steers. Pavers. Packers. Whatever. All different and fun. My fave, playing with a D10T dozer in a land clearing site in the mountains of the Canadian Rockies.
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Not quite automotive but close.
I was rebuilding a Honda, single cylinder 4 stroke dirt-bike engine. I was young. The crank big end bearing was done. It was pretty decent sized heavy duty caged ball roller bearing. The proper repair was too expensive for me. I did some research (this was before the internet was created) and matched up a needle bearing type. Best size I could get. I had to get it pressed on the crank. I remember the guy asking me, are you sure you want to do this? Have you done your research? I was like, yes please press it on. He shrugged and did so. I paid him and left. I put the engine together and flashed it up. That needle bearing lasted about 2 seconds and failed completely. Oh well, the crank was wore out anyway. Except now there was contingent damage. I got a replacement crank and fixed it right. It ran fine after that. It was at that point I learned something, but not quite enough.
Later in life I was able to work with mechanical engineers. I learned of their skill sets. What they did. How and why. The amount of math, metallurgy, design and testing that goes into automotive systems. I now know that I don't remove seemingly stupid little things that I think are not needed in a car. I won't put a V8, new tranny, axle, brakes, upgraded suspension and steering in a 1930's mass produced family car either. They were never designed by engineers to go 70 MPH on the interstate. They were designed to pass a 25 MPH Model T on a dirt road. Humbly, I respect automotive engineers. At times I was dumb enough with my Grade 7 math grades to think I knew better!
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I dis some research by reading up on the topic in an old Motors Manual. My first time rebuilding a Gear box. Seems I got it right.
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Saw these in Skagway Alaska today. Seems to possibly be a modern build. Unsure. Anyone know?
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23” length I suspect?
American Technical Society Automobile Engineering Book Set 1931
in Printed Material, Memorabilia, Toys, Art, Clothing, etc.
Posted
Is there any interest at $80 shipped?
Keith