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Posts posted by M1842

  1. I did the lines on my 51 Chevy using the straight lines at the auto store, I bought a bending tool and flaring tool.  I practiced making the double flares and then went to town bending and cutting one tube at a time.  Was super easy and I did it with the car on jack stands.  Just remember to put the fittings on BEFORE you flare don't ask me how I know this.




    PS I bought lines longer than I needed and cut them to size once the bending was done.  I think with the shorter lines that I got two out of the longest length.  So a tubing cutter was also used.

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  2. I found this picture that my grandfather took in around 1935-6-7 at what might have been a CCC camp in western Nebraska, Grampa was a camp physician for the CCC.  I am basing the date on the general styles of the cars but if someone(s) would like to have a go at the cars in the foreground, I'd be delighted to hear what they are to get a "no earlier than"  date. Unfortunately, Grampa passed in 1973 and I didn't find the negative until 2016 when my father passed.



    Cars circa 1935.jpg

  3. I decided to open up the diff to have a look at the gears and replace the seal as the diff is leaking oil.    So I loosened the bolts around the perimeter of the cover and then took out the bottom bolt and oil started flowing out of the hole.  Luckily I already had my catch basin ready and caught it.  The oil coming out was black with some red floating on the top, I almost filled my 7 qt basin. I am   assuming this means the seal between the torque tube and the differential is leaking.  I already knew the torque ball seal is bad.  Anything else I should look for in the drive train behind the transmission?





  4. I have been redirected to doing inside tasks by SWMBO so have not been able to follow through on all the helpful suggestions on the bleed process.  I did buy a new master cylinder that is still sitting in its box.  It's tempting to go ahead and replace the brake lines as they appear to be original or if replaced it was done several decades ago.


    Merry Christmas!



  5. OK, I taped the threads on the bleeder valve and it certainly tightened up the vacuum.  I can build up 8 PSI but nothing comes out the hose, the hose "pops" when I disconnect it.  I think I will go ahead and disconnect the pipe and pressure test that.  Is it possible the bleeder valve is made incorrectly?  I try and test that too.



  6. On 10/11/2019 at 1:15 PM, Frank DuVal said:

    The secret to Mighty-Vac success is to seal the bleeder screws so air does not get sucked in. I use (horror, GASP, HORROR, the world will end.....) PTFE tape! Just wrap at the "air" end, one wrap, leaving the first few threads next to the bleed hole IN THE wheel cylinder clear of tape. That way none of the shards of PTFE tape will make their way into the wheel cylinder/brake system, where, yes, things can go wrong.....  Tape on threads, vacuum at end of bleeder, where are the tape shards going? Yes, into the Mighty-Vac or other vacuum source.


    Been using a Mighty-Vac to bleed brakes on all sorts of cars for 35 years. Everytime I get the "this isn't working right" feeling, I put tape on the bleed screw (see, I try it dry first!) and all is well.




    Going to look for my PTFE tape, it's on the work bench..... somewhere.

  7. 7 hours ago, 56 Buick said:

    It is not unusual to see a set of wheel cylinders come with different sized - metric/imperial bleeder valves, so I wouldn't be too stressed about that.


    Re the park brake strut, it is a tight fit but it should all fit ... there is usually quite a bit if wiggly around when putting everything together and a wish for a third hand!

    The strut has the bend or cutaway that kinda sits around the wheel cylinder.


    I ended up tapping the strut in with a rubber hammer.  Seems like there are a dozen ways (that look the same) to put the brakes together but only one where everything works!  :)

  8. 2 hours ago, old-tank said:

    Did you rebuild or replace the master cylinder? 



    I have not yet rebuilt/replaced the master cylinder.  It seemed to be working without any leaking.  though I am rethinking my decision to not mess with it.  On my 51 Chevy, I replaced everything except the brake pedal and the MightyVac started pulling fluid through the system to the wheel cylinders right away.   I was somewhat concerned when I disconnected the brake line there was no trace of fluid at the connection or in the cylinder.




  9. I thought I was finally in the clear till I hooked up my vacuum pump to the bleeder valve and started pumping.  First I tried building up vacuum and then opening the bleeder valve.  Then I tried opening the valve and pumping for quite awhile.  Neither method produced any brake fluid in the collection jar.  I am starting to think I have a internal blockage in the right rear brake line.  I have done this before on a 51 Chevy and not had this problem.


    I bought a set of 4 wheel cylinders off eBay a year ago and I am starting to think that was a mistake.  The RR cylinder has a 10mm bleeder valve and the LR has a 3/8' bleeder.  I am also having problems reinstalling the parking brake strut, it is like there is not enough space between the bottom of the wheel cylinder and the axle. The cylinders are made in China.



  10. Grumble grumble.  I installed the new wheel cylinder and went to top off the master cylinder and the filler plug won't move.  I had it off last year to check the fluid level and reinstalled.  My socket just wants to round off the square plug.  Is it worth while to get some pipe plug sockets to improve my purchase on the head of the cap??





  11. I had a thought, which is sometimes dangerous.  If I am using a vacuum pump to bleed my wheel cylinders do I have to have the shoes and drums mounted?  Seems like it would be more convenient to bleed before everything else is in place.  Since the brake pedal won't be used in the bleeding process, there shouldn't be any pressure against the wheel cylinder pistons to force them out of the cylinder.  Am I missing anything in my thinking here?



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