M1842
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Posts posted by M1842
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Well, checked the back of the cylinder and saw the coil spring. I hit the lock with brake clean and then some silicone lubricating spray and it works again! That must be the easiest thing I have fixed on the car. I will look for the products mentioned above to lubricate properly.
Thank you for your help, John and Frank!
Mark
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Did you do anything special on the shift quadrant other than cleaning it? I am always leary of messing too much with clear plastic pieces.
Mark
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This is a silly question maybe. But when I unlock the trunk on my 55, the cylinder just turns and doesn't spring back when I stop turning and let go. It just stops where I leave it. To lock the trunk, I close the lid and I turn the lock cylinder the opposite way. I don't recall seeing anything in the owner's manual about this and its certainly not how any of my other cars (going back to the late 60s) have functioned, except for my 51 Chevy. Is there a broken spring in the lock or is this just normal operation? Is this something that one finds on well used (or abused} old cars.
Mark
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My Dad was an MD and cars were just a means to get around, he mostly bought Chevy coupes for himself and Oldsmobile 4 door sedans for Mom. He did buy a few fun cars, he loved his 63 Buick Skylark convertible. He had a 62 VW Beatle convertible, too. The VW did not do well in the Iowa winters. He did not like Ford, Chrysler, or AMC products.
As a result I have tended towards GM cars of the 50s.
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As I recall, I found a book that Nader did on the VW Beatle in the U of MD library many years ago. I always wondered why it didn't get the same attention as his Corvair book. It was just as damning of VW. It's been 40 years, but the essence of the book was that the Beatle was a pre war design that had never been upgraded to match the higher speeds on the Interstate system.
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Good to have good friends like that!
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Any of the special tools referenced in shop manuals that mean I will have to create a process using what tools I have.
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There are other places for the modified/hot rod/restored crowd. I would say you are in the right place!
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This is a US Model 1842 Percussion Musket, my first Civil War era antique firearm.
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Stumbled on these cars in a clearing in the woods. Derby cars or just someone's personal salvage yard.
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My first antique car purchase was in 1990, a 51 Chevy Fleetline Special. I always liked the GM postwar fastback.
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2 hours ago, billbuickgs said:
Sold , Thanks Mark ,
Bill
Thank you!
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3 hours ago, alsancle said:
When did you do this? I would be shocked if any state would give up previous owner information at this point.
We have this thread in multiple places. I’ll give the same answer here that I always give. The easiest way to research your cars, history is to go backwards through the owners. That requires lots of polite letters to descendants or the possible owners themselves if they are still alive. The second way is through clubs who have maintained rosters over the years.
The third way is to hire a provenance expert. These guys can be extremely expensive. Think thousands of dollars. It usually only makes sense not a very expensive car.
It is extremely hard with a more common car, but not impossible.
This was 1991, that's why I added that changes in laws and policy might prohibit this now. It also helped that all the previous owners were in Maryland as was I at the time.
In 1991 it was a simple request at the MVA and a $2 fee per title file. I have not attempted this since. Not saying this is still possible. In this present environment of identity theft and scams, it may no longer be possible.
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I did this with my 51 Chevy by requesting the title file from Maryland MVA. I started with my title file, it included the title from the previous owner, I then requested that title's title file which included the previous owner's title. Then worked back. Turned out I was the fourth owner. I had all the owner's names back to December 1950.
It may be different now with privacy and identity theft laws and policies. But worth looking into.
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Looks like something I would do
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Looked like you left the extensions on the fenders. I guess they were warped from the heat of the fire?
Mark
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I have turned the corner on the great headlight bucket caper. The bucket and headlight assembly is back in the car fender. I gotta say that Buick made the most complicated system for securing headlights in the bucket that I have encountered since I started driving in 1974. Luckily, I discovered all the gaps and keyways that make it impossible to assemble it incorrectly.
Checked that the headlight turns on when the HL is pulled, check.
Now just need to install the other 9 screws that hold the bucket to the fender and then reinstall the bezel which will be held on securely by TWO screws.
Thanks again to @Mudbone for selling the headlight assemblies from the Burnt Buick to me.
Mark
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Watched this morning and as you were lowering the transmission I thought to myself " If that was me doing it, I would probably have the trans fall off the jack". And then boom! I jumped! 😀
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The guy I sold my 51 Chevy to still sends me texts from time to time. The last one was to show me the damage from when the hood flew up while he was driving the Chevy. Cracked both halves of the windshield and crumpled the corners of the hood 😞
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So, seems like a good engine and trany. But the compression readings seemed odd seemed strange with readings over 200 psi on some cylinders and much lower on others.
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Every summer we drove from MD to NE to stay with my father's parents. Mom, Dad, 4 kids and cocker spaniel. Earliest I remember was the 1960 Olds 98, the last was a 1978 Olds 98.
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My first Hershey was 1996, I was looking for Parts for my 51 Chevy.
Some pictures I snapped on Saturday.
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Found it was pretty easy to bust the old grommet into little pieces with a hammer. I recovered the metal clamp in one piece and straightened it out so I should be able to reuse. As long as it doesn't break when I drive the sides in again. I have new wire loom ordered so I will wait on that before proceeding.
Mark
1955 Buick low oil pressure?
in Buick - Post War
Posted
Could the shaft be worn down just enough to allow a leak? My best guess if multiple o ring replacements aren't working. But you have probably already checked this. 😀