M1842
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Posts posted by M1842
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Thanks Mudbone!!
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23 hours ago, JohnD1956 said:
Do you have power brakes?
No, standard brakes so I don't need to worry about lines for the brake system just the wipers.
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My Special came without the hard lines that run from the pump to the manifold and the wiper system. I am planning on bending some steel lines to replace them but I am wondering if there are supposed to be brackets to hold the lines in place. Any pictures showing the lines, how they are run, and any attachment points would be appreciated very much!
Mark
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Would $25 buy them?
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I think my grandfather's car must be in this picture that he took around 1936. It's a nice period photo but I didn't discover it until many years after both Dad and Grampa's deaths so no back story.
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My Dad's 1963 Buick Skylark convertible. The one car Dad said he regretted selling.
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Gives me hope I can repair those parts on my 55 Special standard seat!
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Regarding backup lights, may just need to clean the contacts on the NSS. I thought mine was bad but after working the shift lever a number of times they started to come on. Dimly at first, but removed corrosion from thr bulb base and inside of the socket and now they are bright.
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I keep hearing about checking a plug in the bottom of the intake manifold of a 55 Buick. So while mine is off the engine, I turned my manifold over. No plug that I can see, is this a 322 thing and not the 264?
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11 minutes ago, old-tank said:
Nope...turn it around and the spark plug covers will clamp against it.
Thank you! The car came without the plug covers so I have not seen that interface before.
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1 hour ago, Specalist John said:
Thanks for posting this picture, answered some questions I had about other stuff under the hood.
Mark
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Actually, think I figured it out. The flange goes in a slot that runs parallel to the lifter valley cover. I need to remove a bunch of crud from the slots.
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Which side does the flange on the rocker covers go? I didn't keep track of which one came from which side.
Thanks,
Mark
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Spent many hours working on my 55 to find wiring and ground faults with a multimeter. Makes trouble shooting more scientific. Check power and ground at the socket. Check continuity of the power wire.
I always start simple, is there a problem with the bulb itself?
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I was 15 driving a 1973 Chevy Nova in high school drivers ed class. We had a driving track next to the school and the instructors (couple coaches and a social studies teacher) would take us out on the public streets.
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1 minute ago, Str8-8-Dave said:
Some crafty greedy folks who have aftermarket steering columns, seat belts, all kinds of aftermarket trim, etc., etc., figured out by inserting words like fits or for they can batch list their non-original junk into our honest queries for OEM parts. So I write antidotal query phrases. I search for and find a few original 1931 Buick parts this way without wading thru 60 pages of aftermarket garbage. Here is a query I just wrote. You could copy it and change the year only if looking for Buick parts. If looking for other make parts you would have to add -Buick and delete your car brand if listed as a -... an move it up to the front of the query phase.
1931 Buick -fits, -for, -Ford, -Chevrolet, -Chevy, -Cadillac, -Oldsmobile, -Pontiac, - Chrysler, -Plymouth, -Dodge
To see how effective this is query on 1931 Buick without the rest of the phrase and see how many pages or items come up. Then copy/paste the phrase above a into the E-Bay search box and see how many pages or items come up. The first time you write a complex query phrase is a pain but if you use it every day or every few days to look of parts you can just click in the search box and your complex phrase will come up in a list of recent queries. My caution is if you put more than a few other queries in the search box your complex query will fall off the list and you will have to re-type it.
I use this type of query -(×,y,z,...) and have never had an issue with long queries.
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I don't think anyone has mentioned this. But sellers can pay for extra visibility in searches on eBay now. Starting from $9.95. You pay and your listing gets "promoted" over others. I believe that the more you pay the more promoting eBay applies to your listing. I think this causes stuff to show up in your search results that is not relevant.
My search strings have so many minuses that I worry about missing good listings at times.
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HN White also made brass musical instruments: trumpets, trombones, french horns, tubas, saxophones, and metal clarinets. I have a gorgeous HN White King clarinet from 1938, that came with a sterling silver bell.
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My family had a 1958 Pontiac station wagon with the air suspension. The compressor seized up while we were in the Black Hills of South Dakota, this was the summer of 1960. The replacement compressor had to be ordered from Omaha and took 3 days to reach Hill City, SD. In the meantime, the local shop loaned us a 1937 Chevy to drive around in, I was only 3 and I have no memory of the loaner car. But I do remember the interior of that big station wagon.
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What a wonderful day driving your car to the show, I've followed this story for what seems like a couple years. So glad it has worked out, with your attention to detail I really didn't expect anything less.
When I get frustrated with my car, I think of what you've been through and how you have pushed through though sometimes you had to walk away.
Beautiful car!
Congrats!
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Got the valley cover off and pulled the lifter for the valve that I have been concerned about. It has a pretty bad groove worn on the bottom, had not been turning for a very long time. The others look fine, but wondering if I should take them apart and clean them. The cam lobes all look smooth.
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48 minutes ago, 60FlatTop said:
Don't get carried away overthinking this
Thanks for your advice. I started off with valve train tapping so pulled the valve covers. Found a rocker arm I could move just with hand pressure. So pulled the shafts and found 4 arms that were badly worn on the valve side. Started looking at the push rods and they didn't look right, Old Tank confirmed they were trashed and all the arms were also effected. At that point, I thought there was no reason to assume the lifters were all OK. So that's how we get to the lifter cover.
My 51 Chevy 216 was a lot easier to work on
I've been fixing previous owner kludges on this car since I bought it. And even now, while dismantling the carb/
Intake manifold it looks like the ballast resistor for the ignition circuit has been removed and the wires spliced together.
I have decided not to pull the heads, don't want to know what the cylinders look like. Shroedinger's cat, as long as I don't open the box, the cat may be alive or dead.
Mark
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Just stripped down one of the rocker arm assemblies. I am assuming the shaft should be a straight cylinder without variation in OD. There are sharp step downs were the arms sit. Haven't looked inside the rockers yet.
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12 hours ago, KAD36 said:
What valve train noise is there iff any? Any lifters sticking? Interested to see the wear under the rocker arms on the shaft. That’ll tell ya 42 or 142 in a hurry. Good luck!
It's been clicking, I didn't think it was that bad but wanted to see what was going on. I am surprised by the amount of wear that I have discovered.
55 Buick Special Headlight Bezel Mounting Brackets
in Buick - Post War
Posted
Thanks to Mudbone, I have a complete headlight bucket now. I have removed my old bucket and in freeing the headlight pigtail from the old bucket I see that there is a metal piece crimped around the headlight wire grommet acting like a wire clamp to keep the wire from being pulled out of the headlight. This seems like a good idea.
The factory clamp looks like it was fitted over the grommet and crimped on 4 sides. Has anyone fitted a new wire clamp of original or adapted design?