147 Franklin Airman
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Posts posted by 147 Franklin Airman
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I wonder if those grill slats would have been black from factory or has someone removed the chrome and painted them?
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On 12/9/2023 at 3:54 PM, hook said:
You can get the Toyota bearings for anywhere from 36 to 110 dollars new. That is if you don't deal with Toyota! However, they won't do you any good in rods machined for the Pontiac inserts. The OD of the Toyota inserts is different from the Pontiac inserts. In fact, the Toyota inserts are smaller OD than the Pontiac inserts. Your stuck with using the Pontiac inserts in those rods. The Pontiac inserts come in .001, .002, .010. .020 and .030 undersize. Also, the Toyota inserts use metric undersizes.
Bill
Thanks Bill
Would you know if the Clevite CB-417M bearing is compatible with the Federal 9835 SA?
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Hi Hook
Thank you for your detailed explanation. So yes, my rods were machined for the Federal Mogul bearings but that was 60 years ago and I was hoping to fit more newer available ones. Toyota are asking for over $500 and I was going to look into relocating the lock tabs but will stick with the current ones just a little more undersize.
I am aware of the oil passage hole.
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Just to follow up, the CB1219G bearings are only available in the UK @ 0.010" undersize and I need a mortgage to buy them.
I have since obtained NOS Federal Mogul 9835 bearings @ 0.030" from the states. Just hoping the crank will be ok.
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1 hour ago, theKiwi said:
Also try Tim Long in Ohio - tmlong51 at gmail dot com
Roger
Thanks Roger
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Thanks Paul. I will try to contact them
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On 9/18/2023 at 2:02 AM, mikewest said:
THE ROD BEARINGS YOU WANT ARE PART NUMBER CB1219G. THE APPLICATION IS TOYOTA LAND CRUISER.
Thanks Mike
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My float has now twice filled up with fuel . First time the pins holes (near the needle) were evident after heating up the float, so a quick solder solved that problem but the 2nd time no holes were found. I did notice that the plating was peeling off.
So my question is, are there known replacements or is it time to make a new one out of copper/brass sheet?
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I understand that the big end bearings from the Toyota Landcruiser can be used in the series 14 side draft engines but does anyone know what year and engine is from Toyota?
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23 hours ago, 63RedBrier said:
Just to be clear, is it a Buick or Franklin wheel/rim?
Actually both. I have 11 on my Franklins and 5 on the Buick.
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Oh wow Wayne, this is the longest response I have ever had and I thank you for this.
I have taken all your comments on board and now I have a lot of investigating to do. I am now thinking that the half axles that I have obtained over the years are possibly bent or suffering from metal fatigue with them being nearly 100 years old. Perhaps time to think about getting some new ones made (At great expense) but first I will be checking things over.
My original question was raised as I have recently broken 2 half axles, perhaps I should have mentioned that.
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I will get a photo (car not at home but locked away) but lets say its not running as true as a modern wheel, most certainly not scrap. Been driving on them for nearly 10 years now
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Does anyone know of an easy way to straighten buckled artillery wheels that are mounted on split rims?
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Thanks Paul. I haven't checked the axle keyways but with the Diff cover off it is evident that the free play is on the spider gears. I will investigate further.
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Does anyone know if the free play on the spider gears in my differential can be tightened up. I have very little play between the ring gear and the pinion but the half axle is moving a lot within the spider gear assembly causing a clunk.
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Here is a photo of the link to the accelerator pump that I made longer. It gives a quicker squirt which got rid of the dead spot. The old link was badly worn causing a delay in the pump operating.
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Not sure where "Vintage Wonders" came from. I must have set that up years ago but never used it.
Took a long drive today at speed and up a long incline, not clutch slip at all so very happy for now.
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I have now given up on the Marvel carb and refitted a Rochester downdraft, she runs much better although I still have a dead spot when first pushing down the accelerator.
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On 8/28/2021 at 3:20 AM, raydurr said:
About 35 years ago I remember my grandfather describing clutch grab in his 1929 Buick. His solution was to stop up the drain slot in the bell housing and fill the bell housing with " coal oil". He would let sit for a little while , push in and out on the clutch pedal a few times and finally drain the fluid from the bell housing. He said that clutch would be smooth as silk for a year or two afterwards. I have considered doing this myself lately. I am not suggesting this as a remedy, merely passing on a story of what occurred probably 85 years ago. Good luck!
UPDATE.
I took the plunge and added 5 litres of ATF to the bell housing and after a brief soak, drained most of it out and to my surprise the clutch is lovely and smooth. Tried it on a step hill and it bites nicely. I also noticed that when on an incline it is now easier to get in and out of 1st gear when before it was impossible.
It is now a test of time to see how long it lasts.
Thank you so much for your advice Raydurr
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5 hours ago, Fred Rawling said:
Have you checked your condensor??
The aluminum flapper in the carb should have a 0.003 or 0.005 clearance ( I cannoit fiund my book toicheck which it is) between it and the diecast piece in the carb. This id not your problem buy tf you have the carb off, check it. your car will run better if thecldearence ids correct
Thanks Fred. I assume you are talking about the gap between the "Flapper" and the Venturi block.
With regards to the condensor, I have removed that as I have installed an Inductive discharge unit which reduces the current on the points and does not need the condensor.
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10 hours ago, Hubert_25-25 said:
1) When the #1 piston is at TDC, the 1-6 line should be on the mark in the window.
Is this correct?
2). Glad that you found the correct drawing indicating valve opening.
3) the timing marks are not supposed to line up when you are on TDC. I do not know when Buick started doing that, but it is not that way in 1925.
My computer has crashed and I hope to help you more when I get it back so sorry for the delayed response.
Study the diagram for your year and verify your cam is matching up - not just the gears.
Hugh
Thanks Hugh
Hope you get your pc fixed.
So after a lot of moving gears around I have established that the piston is at TDC in relation to the mark on the flywheel and that the camshaft is correct. When I used the paper test it did show as 30 deg out but when I used a dual gauge on top of the tappet spring retainer then the valve started to open at the correct time I. E just before TDC so I'm happy with that. I also removed the cam followers & camshaft and all looks good. This still leaves me with the same issue so I have gone back to the carburetor (photo attached shows the gap I have which is down to wear) I know the issue remained after switching to a downdraft carburetor so I am now picking at straws as there isn't much left for me to check.
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I have since found that on my 116" the inlet opens at 10 deg & not 2 deg as Hugh mentioned
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UPDATE.
I have a dilemma, with the flywheel at TDC, the marks on the crank gear & timing gear are not lining up. They do when turning the crank. Now I'm thinking that the flywheel has been mounted in the wrong position but this does not explain my problem. I don't have much hair left to pull out.
Just checked again & it can't be the flywheel off position as piston 1 was at TDC.
LATEST
I realigned the crank gear so that cyl 1 inlet valve started to open with cyl 1 piston at TDC. The engine idled badly. Vacuum was 5"hg.
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5 hours ago, theKiwi said:
I don't know if this will help - the part numbers are in the 3rd column from the right
Roger
Thanks Roger.
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1929 multi plate clutch radial wave driving disc
in Buick - Pre War
Posted
Another update, after 2 years and 3 months I decided to add ATF fluid again and the clutch is smooth again not that it was too bad but it was just starting to shudder again.