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147 Franklin Airman

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Posts posted by 147 Franklin Airman

  1. 3 hours ago, Brooklyn Beer said:

    You can trust Jim. 100% stand up guy.  Looking at your trans from the perspective of the old days of running hot rod Mopars and street racing I can honestly say yours has shit the bed.  May I ask if this just let go under normal driving ?

    Hi Brooklyn

    All is good with Jim.

    I had pulled away going downhill and as soon as I went into 2nd she let go and of course the clutch doesn't do anything as the wheels were still turning the transmission. Not the first time this has happened to me.

  2. 53 minutes ago, 29 franklin said:

    Hello, I have a totally rebuilt warner T3A transmission. I have it as a backup just in case something would happen to my trans in my 1931 151. I am very reluctant to sell but will sell to a club member to get the car back on the road. I can write you a list of what has been done . It has not been in a car since being rebuilt and was done in March of 2018. You can PM me or look me up in the Franklin roster. I do not know how shipping would go .Thank you  Jim Bockin

    I have sent you an email Jim. 

  3. 1 minute ago, PFitz said:

    Ouch !


    Things to keep in mind. If your lucky enough to find a good four speed, either Detroit or Warner, you'll need the bell housing and drive shaft that were with that model of four speed. Or at least have a driveshaft shop change the length of the driveshaft you have now.  The 4 spd bell housings and driveshafts are not the same size as the 3 spds. 


    And you'll likely have to modify the floor boards to fit the different shift tower,..... and the different hand brake position of a Warner 4 spd.


    Been there.



    Thanks Paul

    I wasn't sure if the Detroit would fit straight in, so I will keep looking for a 3 speed Warner.


  4. Hi


    Does anyone have either the Eccentric gear (49500) and the Intermediate gear (49487) or a complete Warner T3A Hi-Flex transmission that they are willing to sell?

    This is from my 1930 Series 14.


    Of course I would not refuse a working Detroit 4 speed if there are any out there.


    Eccentric gear.jpg

    T3A transmission.jpg

  5. Hugh, I meant that the higher octane fuel could be the reason that the timing needs to be less than 17 deg.

    I have used a vacuum gauge and she reads a reasonably steady 18 inches of mercury. I believe that a reading between 15 -20 indicates all is good.

    I'm going to change the ignition coil next.


  6. On 7/21/2019 at 6:22 PM, Hubert_25-25 said:


         I always paint my timing marks.  A white dot with model paint and a model brush.  Find TDC #1 by the hand crank.  Use scotch brite in the timing hole on the flywheel and you should be able to clean up one of the timing marks, either the TDC or the 17 BTDC.  It is about 2 degrees per tooth.     Hugh


    I set the timing at 17 BTDC but she doesn't like it at all, I had to retard it a little to get her to run smoother although she is still lumpy. I assume this is due to the higher octane fuel.

  7. 3 minutes ago, Hubert_25-25 said:

    If you have swapped carburetors and the issue still persists, then it is likely an ignition problem.   I am also assuming that you have good compression.  

    The firing order is backwards of convention.  1-4-2-6-3-5.  Check that this matches while cranking the engine.  

    Since it runs, you should be able to put a timing light on the engine.  Any 12 volt battery will power the light.  Just clip it on #1 wire.  At idle, The timing should be around the TDC mark when you are on full retard on the steering wheel lever.   For 1928, basic timing is at the 17 degree mark before TDC with the lever on full advance at idle.    

    Is the distributor rotating the full amount when the spark advance lever is turned the full amount.

    As Larry DiBarry also found recently, his plug wires were bad and firing into each other.  They were not old wires either.  Look for sparks jumping in the dark.  If all is good, and you run your hand near the plug wires, they should not spark you.



    Thanks Hugh

    That is useful information regarding the setting of the timing with the steering wheel lever, thank you. I have had to do the timing by feel as could never see the 17 deg mark with my timing light. 

    All the plugs were new as are the leads but I have just ordered new ones, I also removed the spark lead cover and separated all the leads in case I had cross firing.

    Compression since servicing the head is now 79-82 psi across all cylinders.


  8. Thank you everyone for your suggestions. I thought I would update on what I have found/done.

    Since I couldn't solve my issues with my Marvel carb I purchased a Rochester B series carburetor (picture attached) Marvel bottle is the pony tank.


    Using both the main fuel tank and a pony tank the runs but is lumpy at idle and low speeds, she climbs hills no problem but I still have to have the choke out a little. In doing so she is smoking indicating that she is running rich. When cruising at 30mph or slower she runs lumpy but will smooth out when pushing the choke in but only for a few seconds then I have to pull the choke out again as she spits through the carb.


    Has anyone else experienced this? I have done so much work on this engine but my original problem is still there. I don't have any hair left to pull out.

    Rochester on Buick 29-25.jpg

  9. 1 hour ago, Mark Shaw said:

    I would still run a test with a pony tank to verify fuel delivery is correct.  Otherwise, you are trusting Solex to know what low pressure is.

    I will give that a try. Running out of ideas now, although I have just noticed that the thickness of the gasket between the carb & the heat riser would effect the timing of the opening of the metering pin in relation to the main butterfly on the heat riser. Going to make a new thicker gasket to see if it improves.

  10. 1 minute ago, Mark Shaw said:

    Are you using a pressure regulator?  They are often the cause of fuel delivery issues by not accurately providing 2-3 psi to updraft carbs.  I suggest you try installing a temporary pony tank high on the firewall with gravity feed to the carb.  This will reveal weather fuel pressure to the carb is the problem. 

    Thanks for your reply Mark. I only use the electric pump when priming the system prior to starting but its is a low pressure Solex pump.

  11. Thanks for the info on the carb Hugh although that model is slightly different to mine being on a 29-25 where mine has 3 jets (idle, intermediate & high speed)

    I have similar issues and its driving me crazy. My problem is that I can get the engine to idle nicely but when trying to pull off or drive up a hill she will either backfire through the carburetor or the exhaust.

    I have done almost everything possible except what is causing this and now I'm thinking that carb has run its life and need changing. I will list what I have done in the hope that someone has an answer.

    What I have noticed recently is that to pull off the choke is needed but to accelerate hard then the choke needs pushing back in, so clearly she is running lean but only when at cruising speed.



    Valve seats ground

    Valves cut & lapped in

    Head skimmed

    New head gasket

    Timing adjusted both by timing light & trial & error



    Carburetor stripped & cleaned

    Idle needle replaced

    Float level raised

    Metering Pin seat replaced (worn after years of use) 

    All work on carb as listed on Hughs post done.



    New stainless steel tube fitted (now 34mm ID diameter)

    Both exhaust ends sealed

    Heat riser tube pressure tested


    Electric fuel pump fitted near the tank in line with the mechanical one.


    Now considering fitting a Rochester single barrel carburetor.


    Any suggestions will be very welcome 🙂

  12. 23 minutes ago, raydurr said:

    A common cause of this symptom is the heat riser having pin holes. Carb running lean would be next.

    Thanks Ray, I forgot to mention that I have blanked off the heat riser but the back firing through the carb can be stopped by pulling the choke out a bit. I have been looking at a replacement carb but its the timing that's worrying me.

  13. Can anyone please tell me how I can check the timing between the crank and the camshaft on my 29-25X?

    I have an issue whereby when adjusting the distributor so that the timing light is on the 17 deg Adv mark the engine runs terribly but adjusting manually to get her running smoothly she then backfires through the carburetor.

    All the valves have been cut and the valve seats ground, compression is good. Head was skimmed. Fibre timing gear looks good. Carburetor stripped and cleaned, new idle needle fitted.

  14. 11 hours ago, JustDave said:

    I don’t know what year your talking about but early 30 s cars where generally 19 gauge,some maybe 18 but 18 is pretty heavy,you’ll probably have to order it. They  stock 20 gauge not much call for 19,   Dave.     

    Hi Dave

    The series 14 are from 1930.

    Thanks for the info.

  15. 20 hours ago, Hubert_25-25 said:


        The clutch bearing itself 36138 is on many cars

    1922-24 4 cyl, E-H-K 1921 to 1929 6 cylinder.  1930 ser 40-50-60, 1931 ser 8-60, 8-80, 8-90

    So in 1925, same bearing for Master or Standard.

    My replacement throw out bearing from Bobs is 1" thick  (It came as a bearing and a spacer)


    The #206526 clutch release bearing retainer is 1928 & 29 6 cyl, domestic 1930 ser 40-50-60.


    If your car is outfitted with a single clutch disc, I would stay with it.  A single disc is a better design than the old multi disc units.  





    Hi Hugh

    Can you please confirm that the specs below are correct?

    Bearing name 7038C bearing
    New model 7038C
    Old model 36138 bearing
    Products types 7038C Angular Contact Ball Bearings
    Categories Angular Contact Ball Bearings
    Brands SNR
    Dimensions (mm)
    Inside diameter ID d 190
    Outside diameter OD D 290
    Thickness B 46
    Size (IDxODxB)mm 190x290x46
  16. 11 hours ago, Fred Rawling said:

    I think you need a new replacement seal from bobasatomobilia.com.    You can test to make sure that it is the seal by cutting a piece of cardboard like a cereal box to fit around the outside of your old felt seal and try it out.   The cardboard around the outside will shrink the inside hole and should stop the leak.


    Your differential cover should be installed with the filler on the lower side and when you put the tip of your finger in the hole, you should feel the oil about a forth to a half inch below the hole.  That will prove if it is overfilled or not.


    cut a new paper gasket for the shedder. 

    Thanks Fred, it is possible that I may have overfilled the differential when I replaced the oil with a 250w

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