RockinRiviDad
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Posts posted by RockinRiviDad
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Thank u. But I don’t need any of those suggestions to hear my solenoid click. I can hear that while laying on my fender & pushing on the micro switch. I can hear the solenoid click over the micro switch click. It’s apparent that my solenoid clicks. But that doesn’t tell me if my vanes are switching pitch
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Are u saying that from a complete stop & with my zip tie depressing my micro switch (high stall) when I try driving away at a “normal” rate of speed I should feel the kick like when the kickdown kicks in at high speed? NOT on my car. Is that a troubleshooting clue telling me the vanes in my convertor aren’t switching??
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U may NOT like the idea of being in high stall during acceleration. I didn’t. I tried it & HATED it.
Zip tie the micro switch in the depressed position & go for a drive. It’s an old switch. Don’t kill it by cranking down on the zip tie. U can see it doesn’t need much pressure to hold it. So be gentle with the zip tie.
It felt like I was starting off from a stop in 3rd gear. It felt super sluggish. Excuse my description, I don’t have the proper terms. But all torque converters are effective at “X” RPM/MPH (I don’t know the numbers). High stall from a dead stop our converters are useless. But with the hot rod switch in place u can flip the switch to give u high stall while driving & it’s like another kickdown/passing gear whenever u want.
I hope I explained that correctly
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My understanding is that it doesn’t affect takeoff. Once u depress the accelerator pedal with any amount of pressure the micro switch goes back to what it was like when u had it out of adjustment.
I drive with mine out of adjustment. It feels better to me. To each his own.
But now I am considering added the hot rod switch (for lack of a better term) under the dash.
Wiring diagram courtesy of Russ Martin’s website
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I installed new springs in the front also.
good call on checking my installation. Hopefully that is the issue fingers crossed 🤞🏼
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new springs may not solve an uneven ride issue.
There are also spacers that sit under your springs. Maybe called “spring perches”??
my car had 1/2” spacers/perches under the driver side rear spring when I took the old springs out. These spacers/perches do not look DIY. They are round, made of metal & have a large grove carved In them where the end of the coil rests in.
I replaced my old springs with brand new (1” lower than standard H2 specs, 2” lower total), 400 pound spring rate H2 springs from CSS & my car still sat uneven. It was lower on the driver side. So I shoved that 1/2” spacer/perch back in & it’s still uneven. My thought was to find a slightly larger spacer/perch to solve my problem. But that’s as far as I’ve gotten
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Very exciting. Good luck.
I see that u installed what looks like the Holley Hyperspark too. U will probably have RFI/EMI issues. I did. Tech support had me wrap my dizzy in tin foil & it worked. That was just to isolate/troubleshoot where is was coming from. They said my air cleaner was acting as an antenna between the Sniper ECU, Hyperspark & Holley coil (old style coil, mounted in stock location). So they had me add a ground wire to the base of my air. Problem solved. Weird. I’m learning a lot.
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On 10/13/2020 at 1:52 PM, BulldogDriver said:
Price of parts for Sniper EFI is the same for everyone unless you have friends in high places.
This bracket will give an additional 3/4” distance on the linkage.
a way to attach the cruise control cable if you go aftermarket.
I do happen to have a friend in high places.
Nice bracket. So have u had a chance drive it & test your creation?
Cruise control? Hmmm…now there’s an idea. I never thought of that. I will look into that
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On 10/9/2020 at 4:13 PM, BulldogDriver said:
My Sniper install is as clean as could be done with a 4L60E transmission that needs a TPS remotely mounted, and a cable for the Rostra cruise control. The bracket for the cables had to be widen by 1/2” due to our Nailheads using the inner mount holes.
Congrats, I agree. Looks like very clean work. Looks like a high dollar build done right (unlike my shoddy a$$ DIY work 😀).
It also looks brand new, as in “not driven” yet. Have u had a chance to drive it? I am interested to hear how your setup performed. It doesn't look like the throttle geometry was addressed. Your throttle linkage looks parallel to valve covers. We had to raise ours up some so that it would pull Sniper linkage from slightly higher. U might find u have the same issues as we did.
Keep us posted
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On 10/9/2020 at 1:11 PM, hollon said:
RockinRiviDad, you are truly ROCKIN! This is the answer I have been searching for. I just had a Holley Sniper installed on my '64 Rivi with a 425.
My one question is: Why did you modify it by welding in the tab that moves the throttle arm attachment point closer to the Sniper? It looks like the stock bracket would work just fine as is and the throttle arm has tons of side to side play in it. Was there a clearance issue or a conflict with the kickdown setup?
Your posts and additional feedback are greatly appreciated!
Your funny...I’m glad this helped. Congrats on your Sniper install
I decided to make my throttle mounting point on the bracket a little closer to the sniper due to my aftermarket air cleaner. It used to hit my hood when hood was closed. I found a low profile air cleaner base which allowed my air cleaner to sit lower. A lower air cleaner base meant I didn’t have much room to change the geometry of my throttle linkage by simply raising it up, I also had to go inward. That & a little persuasion with my ball peen hammer on the air cleaner base & wah-lah...it worked
Somewhere in this thread I added another idea for someone to try. That was to simply cut off the the mounting hole tab, rotate it 180 degrees & weld it. I think that would have eliminated the need for u to shorten your linkage with extra bends.
I’m glad u posted your details. The guys who follow our lead will make less & less mistakes. DON’T forget to keep checking your TPS (throttle position sensor).
Keep us posted on the bracket u fab up. Maybe u will create something better than mine
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So ur thinking the relay I ordered will not work?
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What do u mean by “Class-A”?
I ordered a relay my buddy suggested I try. Still waiting for it to show up. Is that what u mean by a “regulated PS”?
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Where was it living for the last 54 years? 🤷🏻♂️🤷🏻♂️
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I checked the amp ground. But I’ll check to see if my EQ has one too. Thx
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It won’t allow me to add video 🤷🏻♂️
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1 hour ago, arnulfo de l.a. said:
Is the micro working right?check the wiring to the micro switch for bare wire possibly making contact with metal . Also make sure your connections on both ends are good and tight.
Yes, the micro switch is working right now. I will post a little video. I’m excited about it working. But now that I cruised the car around with the SP working, I’m not sure I like it. It sits at a light/stop sign unless I depress the throttle. I might add the Hot Rod switch under the dash 🤷🏻♂️
Lately, I have been attacking all the stupid little things that need attention on my car. Both SP micro switch AND KD switch always had bare wires which had me thinking would arc & not allow them to work right. But I never heard “popping” from my speakers. Now that I have repaired the wires I get the “popping”. I can only assume that the both SP & KD did not work before. Now they work & it’s causing the “pop”.
1 hour ago, arnulfo de l.a. said:A test with a wire from the battery positive to the switch pitch connection on the tranny would essentially be the same thing as adding a relay as your friend suggested. Save you the trouble of adding the relay only to find out it did not solve the problem.
If I am understanding this correctly, a test wire from battery to SP connection would simply activate the solenoid to test if it works, right? In the this little video u can clearly hear the micro switch click but u can’t hear the solenoid activate. But I can clearly hear it in person.
The relay my buddy suggested was not for the SP micro switch. It was for the audio system power source. By unplugging all audio (except power supply) & still getting a “pop” tells us it might be related to where the installer got power for my audio. A quick hunt for said power source revealed that he tapped into a power wire from my ignition. Correct me if I’m wrong, but I think adding a relay for my audio power will still be a safer option for audio even if the “pop” doesn’t go away.
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My radio is not hooked up. I play music thru my phone which connects to my speakers with one of those Bluetooth thingys.
I tried disconnecting all of my audio equipment & the popping is still there.My buddy suggested I add a relay to the power wire feeding my audio. He thinks I might have a “dirty power source” as he describes. He explained that a relay may provide a clean source & hope that solves the popping
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Finally, I fixed my micro switch. It had a hairline crack in the micro switch body that would not allow me to adjust it. A little epoxy, a small clamp to hold it together while epoxy dried & all seems well…NOT!!
Now I am getting a loud “pop” or “crack” like sound from my speakers each time I touch the throttle as micro switch clicks. This happens in park at idle or at a stop sign/light & I touch the pedal.
I can also recreate the sound in my garage with the key in Aux position & I touch the throttle pedal with my hand
Any suggestions on what to check would be kindly appreciated.
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8 hours ago, RivCat said:
Lower left of dash
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10 hours ago, arnulfo de l.a. said:
I think the flasher needs to have light bulbs on the the circuits to work. Out of curiosity, where was the switch mounted? Cool looking switch!
Without looking at the manual, I don’t know where it’s “suppose” be mounted at the factory. But my buddy mounted his in the glove box on his 65 -
For lack of a better term, we will call the sheet metal attached to the bottom of the grill a “bumper filler”. There are bolt/screws to the left & right of the bumper filler to the hold it to the fenders. Take those out & the bumper filler will come off with the grill. Then u can take the whole thing to your work bench, take off all the nuts on the stubs u are fighting, pull off the bumper filler & kick those studs asses 😬
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Two years ago I upgraded to a quick ratio steering box after my stock box started to leak. I didn’t need one of the fancy boxes. I simply went to a shop that rebuilds steering gear boxes & told him what I was after. His idea was to comb thru his stock pile of used Saginaw boxes with the same bolt pattern & rebuilt it. We found one with a quicker ratio & wha-lah...no leaks plus quicker ratio...I cant remember what the new box came from tho
Fast forward to the present time: I had clearance issues with my headers hitting the passenger side upper control arm. Now I noticed clearance issues with the steering gear box. It dented my headers...UGH!! So I dropped the box, used a cutoff wheel & cut the protruding nub off. Doing this kind of work while laying on the garage floor is nooooo fun
Is my switch pitch switching pitch?
in Buick Riviera
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Be careful. Those micro switches will crack from over tightening. Mine was cracked for a long time from what looks like over tightening by the previous owner. The years of heat under the hood dried them out & makes them brittle.
What I recently discovered, when I fixed my cracked switch & tried to finally adjust it right, was that the wires to the micro switch are also dried out & firm/stiff. The wires run down along side the throttle linkage coming out of my firewall. There is a clip (looks stock/original) that holds the wire to the linkage. The wire is so firm/stiff that I noticed I was able to push up on the wire & it actually held my micro switch in the adjusted position with the screw loose. So I added a couple of zip ties (I like zip ties 😆), then tighten down my micro switch