RockinRiviDad
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Posts posted by RockinRiviDad
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Phil Collins said it best:
There's too many men, too many people
Making too many problems
And there's not much love to go around
Can't you see this is the land of confusion?Just trying to help. Don’t shoot the messenger. I’m no mechanic. I was just relaying info that was given to me 😬
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I had to dig thru my build thread to find info that might help u. I thing guys here on the forum told me was that u will not hear the KD solenoid due to the trans fluid muffling it.
I think what the previous replies to your Q on this thread about the wiring was simply to ensure u had good contacts. As u won’t be able to hear the “click” with the fluid in place. Good contacts would ensure a test drive would be successful. If u are heading the solenoid “click” after u drained the fluid I think that tells u it is in fact working.
I have now gone in a different direction (EFI) but what may apply to u was the adjustment of the KD switch. What I mean was that in my case my throttle body throttle linkage travel wasn’t playing nice with the travel on my KD switch. I finally got the switch adjusted by screwing the threaded eyelet of the KD switch in/out (now I can’t remember which direction I needed to go).
I think the 2 numbers they say the KD comes in at was at 40% throttle & 70%? Don’t quote me on that tho. I can most definitely feel my KD kick in when I am getting on an on-ramp or simulating that which would be the 40% mark. As I attempt to feel the 70% kick by simulating I am passing a big rig I don’t always seem to feel it. I seem to definitely feel more when there is any kind of incline. But on a smooth flat road KD is smooth but it’s there.
I have been talking to my transmission rebuilder buddy. He has convinced me to let him rebuild my trans. I haven’t pulled it yet cuz my car drives fine. But he says (& I’m sure others will chime in) that I should feel that second KD (70%) as good as I feel the first KD (40%).
hope that helps
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Clark’s…hands down.
Their prices have gone up. But I don’t care. In these crazy times, what prices haven’t gone up?
Clarks makes all their covers in-house. I have seen multiple kits that friends have bought from Clark’s. Top notch, quality stuff.
I am currently putting together a parts list for my 65. I will probably order all things interior at the same time from Clark’s just to have it all match. I will have to do new foam. U can see why in the pix on my build thread. Unfortunately, for us 65 guys, Clark’s does not have new foam for our Deluxe interior 🤷🏻♂️. I am teaming up with a hot rod upholstery buddy of mine to help me since I don’t know what I’m doing.
Good luck DShoes
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lots of options out there
I've been using a combination of blacks as to break things up a bit (a great tip from guys here). But some guys like things ALL the same black. Not me. I used Rustoleum 7777 (this stuff is awesome but takes forever to dry), the KBS gloss (which was labeled satin…not) & Dupli-color's semi-gloss 1635 this stuff dries super fast & u can keep the projects moving lol
U can use any combination but its def a nice detail instead of EVERYTHING being the same color IMO.
The Dupli-color 1635 has been my go to lately. I even sprayed my package tray with it. Like Frank’s Red Hot Sauce…I put that S#!+ on everything 😆.
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The original post states he wants a hub with a straight pin.
Dumb Q:
Can the offset pin be removed & simply replaced with a straight pin?
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On 4/24/2020 at 8:15 PM, Bendriv said:
I will also certainly post about the air ride install and some before and after's.
How did the air ride install work out? Did it ever happen?-
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I can only help with one answer, oil pressure will only register on your gauge (or turn off dummy light) immediately after the engine has been started & running
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Interesting. I don’t have the answer. But I tore the one on my 65 years ago. I would like another. Does anyone reproduce these?
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U have a great memory, Winston. Great story 👍🏼 thx for sharing
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Like Ed said, the 2 rearmost (closest to rear bumper) bushings are different. They are oval. The 2 bushing over the rear axle were different also. They were wider. No one makes a repop set that is exactly like the factory set
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I can add something to dash pad removal. For those with an aftermarket speaker in the dash u will have to pull the speaker out first. It won’t clear the bracing under dash pad.
Can’t speak for the stock speaker other than not to forget to unplug it 😬my 65 only has 4 screws holding it in on the front. I too cracked my original brittle dash pad 😩
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Ed beat me to it, I was gonna ask the same Q.
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👍🏼 No problem.
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So sorry for the delay, Gene. We are wrapping up a kitchen remodel & tools are scattered everywhere. I can only find my cheapo plastic thread gauge finder. If this doesn’t help, I’ll run to the hardware store with screw in hand & check on their gauge. Let me know
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I can pull one off of mine tomorrow & check for u if no one chimes in before then
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Ok. All I know is that the switches I installed in my 65 with the “extra ground” offered by James @Bestoffercounts work 100 times better than the crappy stock switches. Just another option for us
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Correct. That’s the same concept for your taillight sockets. They ground to the housing. So why have I read many guys on here suggest adding (soldering it is what U suggest) a dedicated ground to the socket? Because it better…just saying
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If your still not happy with the rebuilt originals then go with the brand new switches James @Bestoffercountssells. Top notch switches, they come with the new boot that looks original, an extra ground strap is also added & all the control switches in my 65 work the lights like they are suppose to.
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I couldn’t find a plastic air cleaner stud. So I did the next best thing & it solved my RFI issues. I added a ground strap to the base of my air cleaner to my intake manifold.
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Yes
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Welcome
U won’t see anything if u take the door panel off. To access the window motor & all the window components u have to take the door skin off. Cool design. Not sure why they didn’t continue this idea
My 65, another build to follow
in Buick Riviera
Posted
Like the song says “I Can See Clearly Now…” 😆
My 57 year old glass was in horrible shape. I’ve got 16k miles on my car since I got her back on the road & I always had trouble seeing thru the windshield (mainly when driving at night).
I found a auto glass shop who even had the original replacement green clips. They used 5/16 foam & silicone (not butyl rubber like I did when I put my old glass in 3 years ago). The glass has a green tint & dark tint across the top. It does not have the original marking on it but it does have a DOT number. I’m just glad “I can see clearly now” 😆 Makes for a better cruise experience