Budtee

I am having some problems with the order for the accumulator from gm38supercharger@yahoo.com. I selected fedex ground for the shipping method and the total showed 0 for shipping. Now the vendor wants $17.00 for shipping and said in a phone conversation that it is back ordered. I will probably pay the $17 if it is available for shipment right away. I am contemplating a Paypal dispute. Will let you know how it turns out. Even with the additional shipping charges it is still the cheapest one available.

OK Multiple problems. I think I found them all. The plastic housing was cracked. The gear was not turning and was probably damaged due to the cracked housing or the "blue glue". (The motor worked and would reverse if I flipped the switch on top of the paddle switch.) The blue lubricant was more like blue glue.The bearing on the end of the gear was stuck to the gear and would not rotate until I soaked it with gasoline and now turns freely. I ordered a new housing, $24.99 and a new gear $12.99 and I hope that does it. Still have to test the paddle switch. I am not certain how to test it. I am thinking that if I push the paddle switch arm towards the motor, while it is running, it should stop. ??

If I click on it, the site comes right up. gm38supercharger@yahoo.com is the address I found on the site. Let me know if you still can't reach them.

Tires are new and inflated to the proper pressure. "Bang over bumps" is what I mean. Any opinion on best replacement?

I hit a bump this morning and am now convinced that my struts are bad. Only 9,800 miles but 26 years old. Struts look good but everything underneath looks good. Does this seem reasonable? What advice can you offer on replacement struts. Complete units including springs are a little easier to install but I wonder if the springs are the right ones for my car. I would think that the top strut mounts are OK on a car with low mileage. I guess the rear shocks are questionable also.

I finally had time to look at my pull down motor. It looks like you have to pull the entire unit including the support that fastens with a couple nuts on both ends. Is that correct? Doesn't seem like a big job.

Garnet , Attachment did not work. Would appreciate it if you would try again. Should be helpful.

Is the "paddle switch" the switch next to the tonneau switch?

The top pull down worked when I got the car last Sept. and this spring a couple times but now won't work. (I did get the top pulled down manually.) When I push the switch down, the motor runs until I pull the wire off but nothing happens. I have the shop manual but there doesn't seem to be much info on it and I guess I will have to take the mechanism apart. Is there a plastic gear in there that may have broken? Although there are very few miles on it, I think it was stored in Florida in the summers possibly in very hot weather. The plastic bushings in wiper arms had deteriorated and had to be replaced.

I sent an e-mail to the vendor asking him to confirm that the accumulator was the correct one for my 89 TC. Received a reply today that it is the correct one.

I am researching accumulators and found this company. http://www.gm-supercharger.com/brake-hydac-accumulator-ball.html If this is the correct one I will buy it. The price is right at $118.25 with free shipping if you are not in a hurry. When you put it in your cart a 5% discount is applied to the $125 price. Does this one get the "Digger seal of approval"? I am a new TC owner and don't know what I would do without this Forum!

Do you have the pentatrident emblem that surrounds the trunk key?

Thanks Hemi and Digger! I recently replaced all the brake hoses and flushed the brake fluid and replaced with new DOT 3 fluid from unopened containers. I was not too sure that I got all of the air so I bled them again a few days later thinking that air might cause the pump to run too long. (Ended up using four large bottles of brake fluid.) At a car cruise this week a TC owner said that failure of the Teves will not cause catastrophic brake failure and a post on this site said that the pedal effort increases over time. Do you agree? I bought the car last September with 9,500 miles on it and then went South for the Winter. Since May I have put 300 miles on it. I need to look at Hemi's instruction for the Teves removal and consider that.

I am also from a Pittsburgh suburb. 15071. I don't need a top but am wondering if you have any other TC parts.

Digger, Pump runs 20 to 30 seconds after ignition is turned on. Could this be anything but the accumulator? Four or 5 taps start the pump again. If I have to replace it , do you know if the Hydac unit is suitable?

I have an 89 8v. I just tried the wipers and the linkage to the drivers side is disconnected. I have the shop manual and have started to remove the motor. Looks pretty straightforward but I am wondering where I can get the necessary plastic parts to hook to the pivots. Is it a Chrysler item? Any info or hints will be appreciated as always.

I have an 89 8v with 9,500 miles. Because of the age I know I should change the brake hoses and probably flush out the brake system. The brakes seem to work fine but I wonder about the ABS system next to the fluid reservoir. It looks like it could be new. I am posting a couple pictures and wonder if anyone can tell whether it is original. . Also not important, but there is a bar code sticker on the rear quarter window. I was going to scrape it off but I am also wondering if it is original.

I need a ginger hard plastic cover for the drivers side. It is a sleeve that covers the seat belt near the floor. Anybody know where I can get one? Would one from another Chrysler product fit?

89 8v Anyone know where I can get the trident emblem with the hole in it for the trunk lock?

Thanks. I will look for it in May when I get back home and take the hardtop off for the Summer.

The electrical pigtail, I believe, attaches to a plug on the Left side of the hardtop for the electric rear window defroster. I just bought a TC and when I put the hardtop on, for the Winter, I couldn't find the pigtain. I guess it was under the soft top.

Alferi recommends 180 degree thermostat. Rock Auto says 195 is OE. (They also have the180) I would like to get some more opinions on which is best to use.

I ordered the manual from Rock Auto in November. It was under $50 and vehicle specific to my 89 TC. It has been a lot of help. I believe it is a reprint of the original.

Thanks! It is coming back to me now. My recollection is that the hole is 1/8" diameter. Is that correct?

I had a Turbo 1 in a Chrysler convertible a few years ago and replaced the head gasket. I seem to recall replacing the thermostat and drilling a 1/8" hole to allow a small amount of coolant to bypass during warmup. Someone recommended that but I don't remember where I got the tip. I now have an 89 TC with the 8v Turbo 2 and will be replacing the coolant and thermostat when I get back to Pa in the Spring. Does anyone know anything about it and whether it applies to the Turbo 2? If so, I would appreciate any info on the exact location of the hole.