Budtee

I took it apart, again, and removed the motor and the paddle switch to look at the actuation tabs for the switch and the plastic arm that actuates the paddle. Since I wasn't sure how to proceed, I put it back together using the old paddle switch, AND IT WORKED FINE. The plastic arm that actuates the paddle switch is held on with a rivet and it was turned slightly. Don't know if that was the problem.

I tried rapping and wiggling and checking connections. No change. I definitely only have the plastic canned relay. The wiring looks like it was modified. I took some tape off and found what looks like a factory splice of two wires to one. Do all TC's have a second relay? I was under the impression that the GM trunk pull down was the same. I will probably try the old paddle switch to see if that helps. Attached are pictures of the mechanism.

Garnet and Gold: I got the paddle switch from Amazon. I still have the box with the part number on it. AC Delco 16629927. Digger: I will take it apart again today or tomorrow. I am almost sure that there is only one plastic canned relay. I will take pictures. Will also check the connections.wiggle the harness and rap the plastic canned relay.

I have owned my 89 TC for 1-1/2 years. The top pull down mechanism was working OK when I got it in the Fall and in the Spring when I took the hard top off. Since then I have not been able to get it to work. (It is a 10,000 mile vehicle which has always been stored inside and has no rust or evidence of water leakage.) I replaced the plastic housing and gear that was cracked and the paddle switch as well. Now, when I press the "up" button the latch cycles up and down continuously until I release the button. The "down button" does nothing. (I checked the switch and even tried hooking it to the tonneau cover switch which is identical.) Today I removed the entire mechanism. With it plugged in and the top mechanism laying in the bottom of the recess where the top goes, the up button makes the mechanism go up and, when released, it stops. The down button then functions. When I tried to put the mechanism back in (with the plug in) I noticed a spark when the mechanism touched the stud where it mounts. I then took a jumper wire from a ground and when I touched the mechanism I saw a spark, The only things I have not replaced are the motor, which seems OK or the relay near the paddle switch. Any help would be appreciated.

I have read in previous posts that GM trunk pull-down device is the same as our top pull down device. Does the trunk pull down use the same relay? I have replaced the plastic hosing on top of the motor and the paddle switch and still have problems. I am presently in Texas (car is in PA) and there are a lot of salvage yards and some allow you to take the parts off. Thought I might try to get one before heading home.

Yes - bumpers, bellows, mounts and struts.

I got a kit from Rock Auto that included everything. I installed it and test drove it in November. Big improvement. I will not drive it until Spring when I get it aligned. Part Number Part Type Price EA Core EA Quantity Total 1989 CHRYSLER TC MASERATI 2.2L 135cid L4 Turbocharged SOHC MONROE KITSMB276 Strut & Mount Kit $ 106.79 - 1 $ 106.79 MONROE 63622 [Kit Component] Strut Bellow $ 9.33 $ 0.00 2 - MONROE 901908 [Kit Component] Strut Mount $ 12.71 $ 0.00 2 - MONROE 72589 [Kit Component] Strut $ 31.36 $ 0.00 2 - Shipping Ground $ 17.30 Order Total $ 124.

HD Your method makes sense. Thanks!

Digger mentioned cleaning the throttle body in another post. ( 89TC 8V. ) I had an 85 Lebaron turbo. In the owners manual, I believe, they said to use a Chrysler cleaner of some sort and pour it down the throttle body slowly until the engine stalls. Then let it set for awhile and restart the engine. I seem to remember it smoking a lot for a short time. What method do you use. All ideas are appreciated.

I just changed the struts on my 89 8v. While working on it I noticed that there is a very small amount of play in the drivers side inner tie rod end. I guess a 1/16" or so. (It has just over 10k miles) 1. I am wondering if I should change it now. I have not had it aligned yet. 2. I would appreciate any tips on how to do this. I know there is a tool available to take the tie rod out. The access to the inner clamp to remove the boot looks like it would be a problem. It looks like there is a sheet metal u-shaped piece over the top of the rack. Can this be taken off to provide access to the boot? Once the boot is removed it looks like a simple job. Would appreciate your help.

Where is the parts car located and what color is it?

I just finished looking at a lot of old posts and noticed that they mentioned a "silver relay". I have only a black plastic housed one near the paddle switch. My car is an early 89 8v. One post disconnected the relay and solved the problem.

Still have the same problem with the pull down. Can anybody explain what the relay (small black thing next to the paddle switch) does?

Installed the new paddle switch today. Still doesn't work. Motor is OK. New gear and plastic housing. Since the tonneau and pull down switch are identical I tried the tonneau cover switch on the pull down. No change. When I hit the pull down switch, it just cycles up then down . The only part, other than the motor, that I did not replace is the relay that is next to the paddle switch. Any thoughts?

Garnet & Gold Get on Ebay and put these numbers in the search line: 391169452620 That is for the gear which was $12.99 with free shipping 231019060087 For the housing $24.99 with free shipping. (Housing was not clear plastic like the picture. It was black and probably some type of fiberglass.) Both parts fit fine.

I found that the switch has the number 16603820. (Incidentally it is a 5 wire connection at the paddle switch.) Can't find one anywhere.using that number. After installing a new plastic housing and gear on top of the motor, I reassembled the motor to the cross frame and connected the power wire while it lay in the well. It seemed to work fine laying there. It cycled in both directions. I then bolted it back in place and it pulled the top down but would not reverse to release the top. If I manually release the top from the trunk, it will cycle down again. I am stymied. Could it be the paddle switch? Or the relay mounted near the paddle switch? I have not tried to drill the hole to clean the paddle switch yet. Can you explain the function of the paddle switch and the snapping toggle switch?

Just had the same problem on my 89 8v. Got the plastic bushings from my local NAPA parts store. Center bushings (on the motor) are different from the bushings at the wiper arms. Replace them all while you have them out. Not a big job.

I would like to try Diggers fix for the paddle switch. (Drill hole and clean with brake or contact cleaner) I would appreciate some direction as to where to drill the hole and how large. I attach a couple of pictures of switches help in the explanation. . Plan B would be to buy a switch. I find two Delco part numbers. 16629927 and 16603372. Any idea which one would fit? (I assume it is the 3-wire switch.) The 16629927 is available on Amazon for about $19.

When I start the car after setting overnight, the pump runs for 20 seconds or so and then stops. Brakes seem fine. With the engine off and the key on I pump the pedal over 25 or 30 times before the pump and light comes on. The only thing I am concerned about, is the fluid level in the reservoir. After setting overnight it is over the full mark and after starting the car when the pump stops running, the reservoir is slightly under the full mark. (A difference of a little under 1/2") Is this normal?

I am a little confused. There is a small tube that protrudes from the spacer nut up into the accumulator about 1" or so. Maybe this brings fluid up into the accumulator? There was no fluid that leaked when I removed the old accumulator. (I had pumped the brake 30 or more times the day before the installation.) After installation of the new one the reservoir was down and I added a few ounces. (The reservoir was a little above the full mark before the installation.)

Attached is an instruction sheet I received with Hydac accumulator. Note: There will not be any room for the JB Welded nut on top. Top clearance is sufficient and it is not necessary because of hex just above the threads which is adequate for tightening it. I pumped the brake to relieve the pressure in the system the day before and there was no leakage of brake fluid at all.

OK FINISHED - Backed the spacer nut off and found that it didn't readily come off. Reinstalled it and resumed trying to remove the accumulator. Finally put a pipe wrench on the outside of the almost stripped allen socket and also used the breaker bar and allen wrench at the same time and, like you said, it came loose suddenly and removed easily. To install the Hydac I had to bend the horizontal flange on the firewall up a little and spring the spacer nut forward to get the threads started. I was able to bend the flange back down a little after installation. It is a little taller than the original but doesn't seem to hit the hood. Installation instructions did not say to bleed the brakes and they seem to work fine. After a test drive I pumped the brakes with the key on at least 25 times before the pump came on. I will scan the installation instructions and post them. Thanks to all.

I just started to install the Hydac accumulator and tried to hold the spacer nut and turn the accumulator ball off using a allen wrench and 1/2" breaker bar. It started to strip out the allen socket so I stopped. I then "just for the heck of it" turned on the spacer nut and it started to loosen (rather easily) at the bottom. Would that be OK to take it apart there? Then I should be able to get the ball off on the work bench in a vise with a pipe wrench or use the "acetylene wrench" if that fails. Would appreciate your opinion or any suggestions you might have. (AS USUAL)

OK - I measured the existing accumulator and it is 3-5/16" in dia. or 3/8" smaller than the Hydac. It is almost touching the flange that protrudes from the firewall. It seems that the flange could be bent down to provide clearance. It appears to be about an inch taller than the old one also which might cause a problem. Has anyone made this substitution? Should I be concerned about the size of the threaded connection? I can't see the threads until I remove it. Thought I would ask these questions before I attempt the installation.

I received my accumulator yesterday. Pictures, measurements and all data printed on accumulator are furnished today and I will confirm fit and function after installation. It is about 5" from bottom of threads to the top. It is 3-11/16" in dia. Printing on top S2 4657 Printing on side circumferentially: MAWP 3000 PSI AT 200 DEG F MDMT -40 DEG F MADE IN GERMANY 03/15 HYDAC 03055720/664/069 VOLUME 20 CU. IN. PO 1000 PSI SN 0489086 I ordered it from the vendor shown above and paid the $118.50 and fedex ground was to be free. Then vendor came back and asked for $17.00 for shipping and refused to ship until he received it. I was going to start the Paypal dispute process but decided to pay the $17.00 and see if he shipped it. ($135.50 was still the cheapest price I could find.) IT WAS SHIPPED USPS BY SPINNINGWHEELS..??? I just noticed another number near the bottom. C24599 Installation instructions suggest "You could use some JB Weld and put a nut on top, right in the middle. Let it dry over night and install in the morning. Much easier. Just make sure you tighten it complete" It would seem that the hex above the threads would be sufficient.