Beltfed
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Posts posted by Beltfed
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I did some checking around on this question. The answer is to break the hot side of the battery (not ground) with a high current switch (1000 amps surge). It was noted to avoid the battery disconnect style with a knob. They are known to be junk plus they will only fit the negitive post as it is bigger in diameter.
I believe the generator wire will need to go to the battery instead of the starter if that is your case.
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You are asking for trouble if you turn that switch off while vehicle is running. The battery acts as a load for the generator. Removing that load from the generator allows the unit to go full voltage output. You will likely quickly burn up your generator. Alternators are the same.
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I am (was) in the process of buying some tools from him. He responded to my first email that he would figure out shipping of the stuff and get back to me. That was several weeks ago and I have had no further contact from him. Does anyone know him and if he has some kind of problem?
From his profile I see he has posted many times so I don't think he would be a 'troll', but he does have my name, address, and email. Thanks for any information.
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I've gone the opposite direction from 19tom40. After spending my working years doing electronics and process control I added fuses and relays to my wiring circuits. I relealized years ago that if a piece of equipment was expensive it had fuses. Mine are hidden inside the dash but easy to get at for replacement. I received this car from a PO who did a very amateur rewire and didn't know what he was doing. I've cleaned up all I could find but who knows what I may have missed. I will also install a fuse link to the generator also.
I just returned from the Turkey Run in Daytona. I looked at a very nice large formal sedan (I think) that had a very nice front end to about the fire wall. Then a nice rear section. The rest was just the frame. Don't know why the passenger compartment went up in smoke but it did.
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Jump over to "Stovebolt". All your questions will be answered there.
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Looks like a Paxton but the output flange is odd. They usually are made for a hose connection.
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I guess I need to go knock on the door of the shop and ask the needed questions. I'Ve been around engines for some time but they have been the more modern type. I wish I knew more about the pesky v12's. I read many of the posts on engines on this site such as the posts on stopping oil usage in the valve train area. But as the old saying goes, "It's Greek to me".
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As you said, keep it original makes sense I guess. My capacitor located in that area was disconnected as just about if not all my capacitors were except the ones at the coil. Being electrolytic type they ' bought the farm' years ago. I don't plan to use my AM radio due to the head unit and control cables being totally trashed due to water. And there just isn't much on the AM band anymore. My speaker located in the middle console is also missing. Have not researched the speaker but I believe it was the type that used a transformer in the driver unit. Finding one of those would be a chore.
Sorry, I think I hijacked this topic a bit.
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J. Booth, I looked closely at your photo and it looks to me that the fuse holder (radio) is attached to the left side of the circuit breaker (same as the light circuits). If that is correct I see no point in putting the capacitor wire on the right terminal onto an already very busy screw terminal. I guess Lincoln or Ford have not yet invented a terminal block or barrier strip yet. Also the unused third screw terminal down on the resistor block is in common with the right side terminal of the relay and could be used to uncluttered that terminal for low current applications and maybe that capacitor if it needed to stay on the main buss supply side.
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I didn't think that the v-12 had a serial number stamped on it. I have read, 'back in the day' they would replace engines rather than repair the original. I would think that would depend on what was bad.
A question please. I have not started my engine in three years due to the restore. If it is as tired as I think it will need a rebuild. A local guy that does high end Ford restores sends his v8 flatheads to a long time in business local shop. Do you think that if this shop has build many Ford flatheads that the v12 would give them problems? Thanks.
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J. Booth, In your attached photo there is a capacitor showed. Do you know where that capacitor is connected? Is it for noise suppression (static) for the radio? Thanks.
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I agree with 19tom40. The electromagnetic coils are missing on the first unit. I see no way that unit would work as intended per the description of operation listed by 19tom40. As I understand it, the unit was to act as a sort of vibrator to give you 'some' light to reach the road side in case of high current short.
I assume that you plan to install the NOS relays on your old board as you will need the two resistors for the coils. Of course if you are not interested in keeping it original any high wattage resistors of proper value will do. As a side note...I have wondered if someone hadn't rewired the coils and lost the resistors for a higher voltage spark at the plugs.
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POR-15 does work if used as described above. I just don't like it because of the 'pot life'. I found a product called "Rust Bullet".that works just as good IMHO. The "Rust Bullet" I used was silver in color so had to have a top coat of black paint but I believe POR-15 requires the same for uv light. Only problem encountered is the paint can. If you use a partial can of paint then put the lid back on for another day you will never get the lid off. I now buy it in the 1/2 pint 'six pack' can size.
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I'm in the same fix! I ordered and paid for a set of floor pans from a guy in Charlotte, NC in August of 2014. Haven't seen them yet. All calls go through an answering service run by a nice Southern lady. No call back. Emails are useless. Ask for my money back and no reply.
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The old test for the booster is to put your foot on the brake pedal with a little down force, engine off. Start engine and the pedal will drop by a 'felt' amount. Maybe like a 1/2", 3/4" or so.
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Take your drums and shoes to a shop that can radius the shoes to fit the drums. I dropped off a front set today to get them done. Be sure to mark which shoes fit which drum.
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From what I could read from 47clubcoupe, he was asking if two 6 volt condenser (capacitors) would work and 38 Shorttop answered. As those of us who blew fuses for a living know, a condenser is measured in Farads or umfd's if you will. The voltage handling part of it is not as important as it's capacitance value, well at least from 6 to 12 volts. If one was to buy a condensor with the wrong value then the points will suffer. I can't remember which, but under or over values will cause a pit to appear on either the ground or 'hot' side of the points. So just remember to get the correct umfd condensor.
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To test what your gauge wants to see m/t and full without a manual or good sender then you will need to do what plm33 suggested. I also use a variable resistor or 'pot', valued at 0-200 ohm's as I have seen resistance value from various car manufactures all over the place. By good sender I mean one that doesn't have a break in the resistance coil. I am sure you don't have that problem because if you did your gauge would not have worked at all. Test: don't worry about the wiper right now. Place your ohm meter from one end of the coil ( the thing the wiper rides on) to the other end to get a resistance valve. That value is what your gauge wants to see m/t or full. Now you ask, which is it? Next test: gauge with proper voltage (6 or 12 volt) going to correct post. Gauge grounded..make sure of this point. No wire connected to sender post. Power gauge up, with test clip and wire or just wire, short the sender post to ground. Gauge needle will move to empty or full. Remove wire from sender post. Needle will go to other end of gauge. There, you now have it. You now know if m/t is zero ohm's (grounded) or zero ohm's full. And of course the opposite.
I believe you have a contactor that is not 'wiping' the resistor coil properly, have a flat spot on the contactor so you are contacting two resistance coils at once, or have a bad ground somewhere.
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I fully agree with nickel. Anybody who works on old cars should have a VOM (volt/ohm meter). I personally like the analog type, the one with a needle, better than the digital type because I don't like the numbers jumping around. I also buy a better brand than the cheap ones but I also buy good hand tools. I have DVMs with clip on amp meters for current measurements and for looking at very low resistance/voltage circuits.
As to your problem...can you rehab the sender? Straighten what's bent and burnish the contact wiper and resistance coil? I am assuming that you have the variable resistance type sender and not a King-Seeley type which is a whole new ball of wax.
BTW The fuel sender doesn't provide current to the gauge.
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I refinish metal and have used aluminum oxide for years. Good stuff for some work and not others. The above suggestions IMHO are correct. Using aluminunim oxide on panels should be left to an experienced person. I would visit local basters in your local area and ask questions. Ask for references, they will let you know what the blaster can do. Asking your friends who they use could also work.
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Now is question is...where or who do we go to buy these "high quality tubes". I have read several post on this subject in the recent past with no clear picture of who that just right vendor might be.
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I have personally seen dumpster diving pay off. Several years ago I was tossing some used plastic drums at a county recycling/trash facility. An old lady in front of my truck ask if she could dispose of her deceased husbands firearms in the dumpster. He said yes as long as they were unloaded. In they went and in short order so did he (beat me to it). Reappeared with around $2500.00 worth of pistols.
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Generally speaking, switches are not rated for 6 or 12 volts, they are rated at 125/250 with an amp rating. First Born is correct in getting a switch with a correct amp rating but voltage will not matter. I think you will find a better selection of switches at places like Home Depot or Lowes than at your FAPS.
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Where are these parts located? I might be interested in several items. Thanks
ford 6 volt sys battery disconnect switch problem? help
in General Discussion
Posted · Edited by Beltfed (see edit history)
Breaking the ground side is the direction most go but the question is..why does my engine still run and to expand it a bit, how to disconnect the battery and kill the engine at the same time. As stated above, breaking the ground side will not achieve this. Turning the ignition switch off first solves the problem and breaking the ground side makes good sense.