Beltfed
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Posts posted by Beltfed
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Mr. Jaquith has agree to fix the wiper motor. Very nice guy to converse with. Thank you again 19tom40. I could get to like this style of repair. 'Just write a check and it gets fixed'.
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I've already jumped through all the hoops as far as lube and such. I even spent time to make new gaskets. I'm going to reverse my vacuum pump this morning to see if and where it may be losing vacuum. I've already checked the 'paddle' for leaks and it passed.
I call your suggested source. Thank you.
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Before buttoning up the instrument panel I checked the wiper motor again and it will not turn the wipers with 18" of vacuum. Gave up and called "wiper man" to send it for repair. He said, "Oh no, not the infamous Lincoln wiper motor. I can't do anything for that motor. They should have never built it." He went on to tell me all the problems this motor has.
So, I need to know what you guys do to solve this problem. Is there someone who will take this project on? Thanks.
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That's not a bad idea as 39, as everyone knows, was the first year that 'tightwad' agreed to hydraulics. Whoever taked Henry into the change over saved the company. If they had struck with cables, Ford would have beat Packard into bankruptcy.
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I have found a Hot Rod vendor for the cables. They will make anything I need. Have to wait until I get the cross shaft problem worked out before ordering (another post).
I didn't think to grab the cables from the rad rod. I will check with the shop, but they tend to toss old stuff like these cable as their 'mindset' is in a different place.
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Yes, I am hanging parking brakes on the 38. The thing that has me stopped is the offset from centerline of the car to the cable connection from the e brake handle
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I'm thinking of hacking up this cross shaft to make a part I need. Am I committing an unforgivable crime? It came off a 1938 4 door a guy was rat rodding.
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I am in the process of trying to 'button up' the instrument cluster (two years late). As you know, getting into this area is a real bear so I want to be done with it for this lifetime. The headlight switch connections are not as solid as I prefer. With what I think are Ford male wire connectors plugged into the top female sockets, the connections are somewhat loose. I'm unsure if I need to put new connectors on the wire ends or figure out a way to tighten the female socket. The question is...is there a way to tighten the female socket (please, no wisecracks). Thanks.
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Has anyone replaced the rear brake cables on a 38 Zeophy. Can't seem to find a suitable pair due to the length of the 'conduit' or sheath. Anyone know if a different car might work? Tried Ford cables but the conduit is to long and the cable is too short. Thanks.
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Sorry, didn't see this post till this morning.
The first thing one needs to do is figure out if the the gauge or sender. Power to the gas gauge itself the first thing you check. There is no power connection to the sender.
The second thing is to isolate the problem to either the gauge or sender. That is done by disconnecting the one wire going to the sender from the gauge. This can be done either at the gauge or tank, but the gauge is better in case the sender wire is open. With power on and the wire off, the gauge will peg one way or other. Different manufactures and years, the gauge could swing either way. If that works, take a jumper wire with alligator clips and go from the gas sender lug on the gauge to a good ground. The gauge should peg in the opposite direction. Turn power off.
If the two test above were successful then your problem is the sender is not working, the wire going to the sender is open, or you have bad ground.
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I would be interested if the price and location is right. I'm building my 'man cave' and need some wall art. I'm also in the market for a cut off front end of some sort of car or truck, something going to the scrapper. Older the better.
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Have you looked around your local area? Asked your car buddies where one might be? Tried Craigslist? The 350 is a very common tranny. Most of my car buddies, including me, have one sitting in their shops. They are not always fresh and ready to install, but there.
Good luck with your search.
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My understanding is you have to remove the whole steering column to get after it. I suggest you ask this question in the Lincon sub forum if you have not already done so. BTW, I have somewhat the same problem with my 1938 Zephyr.
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The guys above are correct but....had this happen to a buddy's 350 turbo. Thought his tranny was toast. After adding tranny fluid to bring it back to correct level, it shifted normally.
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If your front brakes were working correctly and you removed the drums, the brake pistons would have pushed out of the cylinders if you applied the brakes. Then you have aa real mess on your hands.
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You can go two different ways. The 12 volts coils will need some amount of resistance, around one ohm, as the points will not handle the extra current the 12 volt system provides and coil failure due to heat. This can happen two ways, a coil with the resistance built in or an external ballast resistor in series with the coil. Both systems work. The downside of the internal resistor is one can not get full battery voltage when starting. Depending on the state of tune of the engine, this can be a problem. If going with the external ballast resistor then a bypass wire needs to be added to the start circuit to provide the full 12 volts on starting.
Have never worked on a dual firing point system. The ones I know about use two sets of points but one set is used for opening, the other for closing. This gives you the ability to adjust to greater dwell times.
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It seems from the comments above that the epoxy is going to be a problem with the oil and such. I have seen several shops that have a tile floor laid down over the concrete. One was a checker flag pattern the other orange and white (big Univ. of Tenn. fan). No idea on cost. See vendors who sell it for garages at big car shows.
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Boy, getting those three bolts out was one of the most time consuming and frustrating jobs I've done to the Zephyr so far (motor is installed).
My speedo drive is off the right rear axle. I have no speedo transmission on the firewall and I have the Columbia so a drive connected to the drive shaft will not cut it. I didn't know factory tools were even available for that job hence my home built ones. Flying solo except for you guys and your help, had its drawbacks.
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Below is a pic of my 1938 mount. It is NOS from eBay but have never seen another there that was useable. Also pictured is a speedo drive which I have no idea why it is there. Like I stated earlier, this car is a "Mix Master".
if I understand where the balancer is on these cars then here is a pic of my home puller and installer.
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I've been thinking about that turn signal controller myself. It's a new aftermarket and the hose clamp mount plus being up near the glovebox doesn't set right with me. Awaiting the proper colored cloth covered wire to arrive so I have a little time to think of another way to either mount it or relocate it as you did.
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To expand Vernsmith's question, what year did the oil line move to the block? My 1938 engine is such but the engine bay is a "Mix Master". Thanks.
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If one doesn't ask how much then one will never know it it's too expensive for his pocket book. You could PM the poster and ask, right? You can always say thanks but no. These guys are nice enough to post pics and I get to view them and wish I also had the money.
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I decided that waving my arm out the window was not going to cut it for making turns in today's traffic. Modifing the rear tai lights is not an big issue. On the other hand, the front is a bit of problem as that little bulb in the headlight housing with lights on will not cut it. Below is a pic of my solution. I replaced the bumper bolts with a led lamp inside a bumper bolt. It leaves the front end clean.
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Now the wiper motor is bad
in V12 Lincolns Only
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I have used a spring scale to adjust the steering box worm gear on several cars. I have never seen any data, nor a procedure, on checking the wiper arms/towers for maximum allowable torque. Is there a procedure or is it the old 'German torque' thing?