Beltfed
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Posts posted by Beltfed
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I am purchasing the bottom trim for the '38 Zephyr coupe from "Northfield Forming". I need to get the owner a couple of pics of the bottom trim ends or spears. My car came with no trim and have never seen another 1938. If you have the car and don't mind taking a couple of close ups of the ends it would be a great help. The guy at Northfield doesn't do computers or iPhones so I'll have to print the pics and mail them to him.
The guy also has an order for a '37 and thinks the trim is the same. Can anyone confirm that? Thanks
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I believe jpage has your answer. I get my lines made up at a local hydraulic supply and repair shop which makes USDOT cerified lines. They supply me with hose which stands up to the alcohol which I do not use in my local area. But traveling to other states with my cars brings my cars into contact with it.
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The steering box is just the beginning. Got radius rods? The oil pan will occupy the same space. You will have to split the 'bones' if the font end stays orginial. Many other things. As suggested, I would take your engine swap question over to a site that deals with cars built as hot rods, street rods, restorods, etc.. They're good people, they just look at cars differently than the guys on this forum.
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My testing procedure, (only mine) as sparks can will fly. Looks like a 6 volt system. First gently pry the contacts open to burnish them back to bright copper color. They sell a contact burnishing strip which is what I use as I never touch them with sandpaper, emery cloth, or anything else.
With jumper leads hook one side of the battery or charger to terminal R. Hook another jumper lead to the other post on the battery. Quickly touch and get off of terminals 4 & 2. The contact A or B should open then close. There will be a spark. I would go further after checking operation and check the resistance across the contacts. Any resistance at the contacts will be reflected on how much current your down streams devices can have.
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Looks to me like a two pole circuit breaker, if you wish to call it that. Power comes in on terminal R. It then splits in order to pass through two electromagnetic coils. Can't see it in the pics but the two sets of contacts are held N/C (normally closed) by way of a spring of sorts. When a short develops downstream the high current is enough for the coils to overcome the spring pressure and pull the contact(s) open. When the contacts open the the current in the coil(s) drops and the points close only to repeat the process. This causes a loud buzz that alerts the driver that a short has developed and needs attention.
There is most likely a metal bar located somewhere around the contacts that the electromagnets need to act upon.
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As an owner of a 1938 Zephyr and having rebuilt the front end for it I can help a little. Ford parts will not fit the front end for the most part. The shackles are different. The square hole in the shackle is larger than the Ford and longer, and one even has a round hole for the sway bar. The offset to the knee action shock on the lower pin is different. Rebuilding the knee action shocks is about $200.00 each last I heard.
If you need the spring pack repaired, call Eaton. About $200.00 I think.
Scroll on down from here to the Ford section. The last one in that section is the Lincoln Zephyr subset. Poke around till you find the vendors and give them a call. Hate to tell you this but Zephyr parts ain't cheap. Get ready for a lot of this.
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I can't tell from the picture. Are the heads aluminum or steel? Thanks
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Yes, if you can get them to do the work. Have waited over a year for trim on my 1938 Lincoln. Never hear from them, must call myself.
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Where is this ballast resistor? Original cars had two ballast resistors (one for each coil) mounted in the middle of the interior fire wall. I am told that the original coils do not like 12 volt. The biggest thing is polarity. If you change from positive to negative ground you will lose about 40 percent (if I remember correctly) of your spark voltage and you points will go south very quickly.
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ScarredKnightfan, My group of car guys have 'benched raced' the idea of taking an extended trip on Route 66. We are mostly retired and 'well heeled' enough to do it. Our understanding is 66 is very chopped up by I-40 and just pieces of it exist here and there. The suggestion to do the 'Lincoln Highway' instead has also come up as it is mostly complete. Can you suggest a website where we can get an idea of what it will take to drive 60+ year old cars on 66 and how much of it we can really see? Thanks
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Would you by chance have any complete motors, in useable or rebuildable condition in your inventory?
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The hum of the vibrator (we who blow fuses for a living call them 'choppers') is not necessary to listen to AM. The loud hum from the failing large electrolytic capacitors in the power supply (we call it 'motor boating') is also not necessary. As much as I hate to admit it, I agree with those above who suggest gutting an old radio and installing a modern AM/FM radio in it's place. If for noting else the programming is much better. This is from a guy who also collects very old radios. I even have non superhydroyne types. That's the very old type of radio that you have to turn more than one knob to change frequencies.
For those who like the sound from a tube radio vs a transistor type...they have a point. The reasoning is a vacuum tube reacts slower than a transistor to changes in frequency and volumn. This makes the tube radio 'sound' less harsh. Some of those who listen to high end home stereo love the old tube style power amps and tuners. They can be hard to find and pricey when you do.
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Good catch FlatTop. Didn't think of that.
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Mr. Wudsy is correct. AM modulated signal travel further 'around' the earth. Not because they are AM but because of the transmitter frequency. Commercial AM broadcast frequencys start around 550 KHz or 550,000 Hz and go up to around 1.8 MHz. FM on the other hand starts at around 88 MHz. As frequency goes up the nature of the transmitted frequency is to go straight and not follow the curvature of the earth. Not to much further up the frequency scale and it become 'line of sight', microwave frequencies are in that area.
There is something else called 'skip' which uses the earth and ionosphere as kind of reflectors. As a youth I use to listen to a very powerful AM radio station in Texas with it's transmitter in Mexico, to avoid FCC rules. Rock and Roll at a 1000 miles. Ever hear of Wolfman Jack? Cool!
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Ply33 is correct. There is no ballast resistor on a normal six volt system. With that said my Lincoln Zephyr 12 cylinder has two ballast resistors, one for each coil.
Solid core wire? I don't know if that is orginial to the car but it is not good. Multi strand wire should always be use with any equipment that has vibration. Vibrations will work harden solid core wire and it will break.
Before tossing the old coil I would make sure it is bad by comparing it's resistance to a good one, you never know. With solid core wire you might have made a bad connection. Condensers(electrolytic) and coils can be heat sensitive meaning that both have an oil base construction, the oil can break down with heat.
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Your description of how the system works with the resistor is contrary to all the 'more modern' ignition circuits I know of. The so called ballast resistor is installed to limit current to the points while running not starting. The resistor is by passed in the start mode.
Here my stab at the other question.....orginial 9 volt dry cell, 6 volt coil, then the resistor would need to drop three volts across it to maintain 6 volts at the coil. Now you have a 8 volt dry cell and same 6 volt coil. But now 2 volts needs to be dropped across the resistor for 6 volts at the coil. So if you measure the primary resistance of your coil the the orginial resistor would be 1/2 the coil resistance. With the 8 volt battery the resistor would be 1/3 the coil resistance. Measuring the current in this system would be a task as it is a 'chopped ' current plus as the coil reaches saturation the current would drop off.
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Just did that last summer and what a bear to do. You are very lucky to have removed the three bolts without one or more of the caged nuts spreading the retainer and spinning. My problem was dirt and gravel sitting on the frame rail and not allowing the tank to slide far enough to one side to allow the lip on the other side to clear the rail. I cleaned, used high pressure air, then kicked at the tank to get it to fall. The exhaust system is also in the way on the right side. I just write it up to another "What were they thinking".
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Flatcar, Is the manifold spacer in your picture the same as DSpringer noted in his post (BK-49)? If so, I will order it and retrofit when time permits as my fit up is all wrong. I assume that the fitting in the top of your manifold spacer shown is for the wipers. Correct? Thanks to you both.
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Have you tried "Kanters"? I bought four reproduction '40 hubcaps from them.
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For the Zephyr go to the LZOC site on the forum. There is a section for buying and selling of Zephyrs and Connies there.
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I was at a large car show several years ago and there was a company selling just what you are speaking about. They advertised it as a anti-thief device that would alert you by cell phone. Have not seen them in several years so they may have gone belly up. Try Google.
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I purchased an item from this company for my 1938 Lincoln Zephyr. The part looks and operates as orginial. The sensor is a King-Seely type. Talked to the guys at the company and was pleased with their knowledge. Pricey but where are you going to buy a piece of technology that went out with silent films.
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Thanks for your answer. I am starting to think about gutting the box and installing a modern radio inside the box. The trashed head unit could get a remote control unit and I could dummy up the front of it with the great stuff "knob soup" sells. I have the orginial frequency indicator in pretty good shape. My speakers are long gone also but one could install modern speakers in their place and it would all look orginial.
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Yesterday I removed the AM radio from the car in get more room to work on the parking brake. It was mounted high up on the left side of the steering column. The weird thing was once removed, the Zephyr logo was facing inside. Is that correct? My head unit is trashed due to water damage so I don't plan to reinstall, just curious.
Request for photo(s) of 1938 Zephyr coupe trim
in Lincoln & Zephyr
Posted
Guys, I looked at past post on this issue only to find Larry posted three photos that get the job done. Sorry, but getting stuff made for the Zephyr takes such a long time that you forget. Heck, it will only be three years this summer since I bought and paid for floor pans from the guy in North Carolina.
CBoz, I going to measure the side again with help and a cloth tape. I don't know how to do it otherwise.
Thanks